logray

SAI pump whine? Wheel bearing?

+1 on Tool Pants comment. If after you've cleared the codes 1128 and 1130 they keep coming back... Based on the 1128 and 1130 you might also have a vaccum leak, fuel leak, bad maf, etc. preventing most of those smog tests from going to the ready state. A quick search for those DTC's yields... http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php/topic/36892-p1128-and-p1130/page__p__195496__hl__p1128__fromsearch__1#entry195496 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php/topic/17106-my-first-check-engine-light-at-50k-miles/

Take a look at this. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing.htm It's close to your engine, but not exact, that one is a 5 chain and smaller (for a boxster). But most of it is the same, example you must lock cams. I repeat. Don't just remove the ims flange cover without having the cams locked with your cam locking tools.

+1 to wal mart batteries. And costco and autozone. LOL, one time a Nissan dealer replaced a battery in my truck, wanted to charge me $100 for it. I told them to take it out and I would walk to the wal-mart across the street to get one for $50. They promptly lowered the price. Even still, you don't want to pay dealer prices. There is a great battery thread here BTW if you use the search feature.

Thank you for the reply. Are you seeing/using the new tensioners on older cars? Just on the 1-3 and 4-6 tensioners? Or also the IMS? And what about rb101's concerns about using the older style ims tensioner on old model M96 engines? I see in the catalog both parts are still available and both are "valid" for the 1999 year.

I have seen many posts about using the new style versus old style chain tensioners. Some say use the old, others say that the new ones work ok. The question is, is there anyone with a 1999-2000 996 actually using the new chain tensioners (exposed spring style)? Pics courtesy rb101. Reason I ask is, I'm going to be tearing the cam covers off soon and one of the items on my parts list are new tensioners. Is one "correct" answer, use the old ims tensioner (requirement for old tensioner pad). Then for the 1-3 and 4-6 banks I can use the new style? Here are the part numbers. 996-105-180-54-OEM Old style IMS tensioner 996-105-180-56-OEM New style IMS tensioner 996-105-051-58-OEM Old style 1-3 tensioner 996-105-186-01-OEM New style 1-3 tensioner 996-105-053-58-OEM Old style 4-6 tensioner 996-105-188-01-OEM New style 4-6 tensioner

Could you please provide details? P/N and who you purchased it from? TIA.

Looks like something perhaps related to the SAI? I see a cam cap, judging by the pic it's in the left rear portion of the engine. Just curious what you did on your rebuild? Was it DIY? Nice work either way.

I'm not sure if this is an optional audio system or not, but at least in my 1999 C2 996 car in the door fronts (most important for good sound), there are really nice factory plastic baffles behind the door panel. No mods required, the factory grills are on the door. No cutting of anything and use any aftermarket speaker you would like to (check depth FIRST before you buy). You remove the door panel (easy, just search how to do it) and behind the panel are the plastic baffle/woofer/box that attaches to the door. In that nice "mid range" box/baffle/bandpass pictured below that came with the car (below pic with red arrow) , remove the old speakers, and then you insert any 5 1/4 speaker you want to (assuming is is the right depth, which you should measure first). Measure the speaker size as well but I'm pretty sure it is 5 1/4". I cut a micro fiber cloth around the outside of the speaker to ensure a perfect air tight fit. You'll notice in the lower right of the factory box is an air port, which is why the seal is important for bass/midrange. #7 pictured below is really unneccessary, and as you'll see the speaker attaches to the box, and not the grill on the door (covering whatever you have underneath). I used to work for JBL (harmon/kardon, becker, infinity, etc.) and the president of engineering there drove a boxster. BOSE might have been an option for the speakers at the time if I remember right, and I can clearly recall the expletives he used to describe how terrible it sounded, the quality and number of speakers was not designed well. I recommend using component speakers, and put the tweeters in the dash below the windshield. For the rears you just need something to fill the space, doesn't really matter. For a sub, the front door baffles do a pretty good job, but if you want some really deep bass you're going to need something custom behind the seats (the under seat subs won't fit).

It's been a while since I was behind the rear seat, now that I think about it the 40amp fuse(es?) there, at least the one there might be just for the secondary air pump/SAI??? Anyways, +1 on the previous post about the ignition switch, a common issue and might be an inexpensive place to start.... After that (or even now) I would start poking around with a multi meter at relays and various points of the car, such as DME, engine, alarm module, instrument panel, etc. Once on a VW quantum I literally burnt/smoked a wire all the way through into the instrument cluster. Car wouldn't start as there was damage to a lot of places under the dash, and I had to replace the instrument cluster and other components. I forgot to disconnect the battery before doing this work. Lesson learned!

Did you check the fuses under the carpet behind the rear seats? Assuming your batt is good. If that doesnt work... Try unplugging the inst cluster and see what you get.

I fitted Infinity Kappa's (or betas maybe) component series in the front (5 1/4" IIRC). They fit perfect and didn't require any mods to the factory grills. The fronts were easy. I picked these speakers for the depth (they are neodymium magnet and therefore not as deep). Properly sealed (dynomat in the door and seals around the bezels), they put out PLENTY of sound!!! With the subwoofer off they put out some serious bass thanks to the custom factory baffle. The tweets went in the dash grills, I think I had to mod the mounts but not the grills. In the rears I also put Infinity Kappas, the square looking ones with integrated mid and high. In the back mounted just behind the rear seats I put a "pro version?" bazooka. And a nice rockford fosgate amp to power everything. Also pioneer AVIC Z3 (custom dash) and their auto eq add-on. I can make the car deafening loud and it only sounds better the louder it gets. But lately I've been enjoying the sound of the engine and exhaust than the music. I recommend removing the door panels (there are some DIY's here) and measuring if you are looking at a particular speaker size. I've had CDTs in the past in my Jeep and they tend to run shallow like the Infinitys. JL audio or anything else and you might have a problem. Running speaker wire around this car is a nightmare, I ended up splicing the rears into the factory wiring and had a nasty ground loop, solved by a few isolators.

OMG! <spills morning coffee all over lap>

I recently purchased Wayne's 101 projects for Boxster and love it! I can't wait for the 996 book :) For those of you that haven't purchased the book available at the renntech Amazon store. To date, I believe Wayne's chapter 16 on camshaft swap and valvetrain repair is the best I've seen as far as a step by step walk through. The only thing I can see that he recommends that might be an issue is using a magnet instead of the lapping tool to remove the lifters, since there is a TSB explaining it is bad to magnetize the lifters. The chapter in the book though certainly has empowered me to feel confident enough to tackle this in my own garage. I have heard mention of a couple other DIYs but haven't found them in their usual places. I also found this awesome website called project nutrod, this thread over on 986forum on timing the M96 as well as these youtubes on the boxster s complete engine rebuild (I'm not planning to do a complete engine tear down and valve job/etc though...). I have been steadily tackling Jake Raby's pre-failure directives 1 by 1. At ~72k miles I've replaced the H20 pump (72k), IMS & RMS (68k), (RMS also at 38k) and AOS (55k). When I had the sump plate out at 68k there looked to be a small amount of tiny tiny bits of black/orange variocam pad guide on the bottom of the pan. I'm sure the pads are scored and ready to be replaced. I'm at the point where I'll have the engine out and have a tentative list put together. The variocam ramps 4th and 5th chains Variocam solenoids Any lifters that might be worn Possibly the 3 chain tensioners unless they look OK (although when I had my 1-3 tensioner out for the IMS it did look a little scored). Although it's unclear what version to use, new or old. Questions I have regarding this DIY. 1.) Of course many people have done their own work using various work shop manuals/etc. Has anyone followed this particular step by step yet with good success (boxster or 996)? Having already done the LN IMS swap, I would rate that at a 6/10 on difficulty (first time through). How would you rate this in difficulty compared to an IMS retrofit? 2.) Am I wrong to assume nearly all of the Boxster DIY in the 101projects book applies to a 1999 3.4L M96 engine (assuming most if not all since my 1999 motor is also a 5 chain). 3.) If I have the engine apart (aside from cracking the case in half), is there anything else I might want to tackle while I'm in there. Updated case bolts, oil filler tube, etc. 4.) I haven't found a recommended parts/shopping "list" that applies to a 3.4L M96, I understand there are some shared parts with a smaller Boxster engine. Example I know I'll need the P253 timing tool, chains, new pads, cam caps, various gaskets & rings. Here's what I've come up with so far... Appx $1k in parts not including lifters which adds ~ another $1k for all 24. I've also read if one is bad that all of them on that side should be replaced? P/N,Desc,Qty,Notes P253,"Porsche Timing/""Lock"" Tool",1 (or fabricate my own) CAM SERVICE 996-105-170-53-M48,intake to exhaust chain,2,(the chains on my bicycle cost 2x this but I won't complain so please don't raise prices) 996-605-901-00-M100,1-3 Solenoid,1,optional/peace of mind 996-605-902-00-M100,4-6 Solenoid,1,optional/peace of mind 996-105-253-00-M100,Cam pads/guides,2,(assuming 2 per kit and includes o ring?) 996-105-223-52-M204,Solenoid cover,1,(I already replaced 1 of them @ 70k since it was leaking) 996-105-041-72-M40,Lifter/tappet,24,(as needed/if worn) 996-104-215-54-M100,Cam plugs,6,(might have one laying around) TENSIONERS (see TSB 1551 or this thread for which tensioners you will need based on your year car and engine) 900-123-147-30-OEM,Tensioner crush ring,3 996-105-180-54-OEM,Old style IMS tensioner,1,Still affordable 996-105-180-56-OEM,New style IMS tensioner,0,Not applicable for my engine serial number 996-105-051-58-OEM,Old style 1-3 tensioner,0,Costs more than the entire project ($1k) 996-105-186-01-OEM,New style 1-3 tensioner,1,Supersedes the old part above 996-105-053-58-OEM ,Old style 4-6 tensioner,0,Costs more than the entire project ($1k) 996-105-188-01-OEM,New style 4-6 tensioner,1,Supersedes the old part above SPARK TUBES 996-105-325-52-M100,Spark plug tube,6 999-707-343-41-M17,Spark tube inner ring,6,(might already have these) 999-707-215-40-M17,Spark tube outer ring,6,(might already have these) 000-043-205-10-M100 ,assembly grease for spk tubes,1,Any good alternatives here this stuff is expensive? MISC 999-217-150-09-OEM,new oil scavenge pump bolts,8 999-707-554-40-M17,oil scavenge pump o rings,2 997-101-212-01-M17,rear main seal,1,Unless it's dry I might as well do the RMS again 999-073-092-02-M260,new flywheel bolts,8 900-123-106-30-M131,oil drain washer,1 900-219-009-30-M260,oil drain plug,1 900-123-144-30-M131,coolant plug crush washer,1 999-707-409-40-M17,oil cooler ring,2,heard they can start to leak 999-707-389-40-M17,oil cooler ring,2,heard they can start to leak 997-110-247-00-M30,intake manifold gasket,6,(I should have replaced these when I went in from the top to do the AOS) 5900,Loctite flange sealant de jour,,"as needed for machined surfaces, I think I have some copper permatex which was dharn's suggestion" PEL-KM34155,Kimwipes,,Recommended by Wayne (read the book). ,aos hose,1,(a pesky miniscule leak I can't reach unless I drop the engine) ,Acetone,,To clean machined surfaces ,Assembly oil,,special assembly lube such as ultra stick

Take a look at http://www.flat6innovations.com/ for info on how to contact Jake. He occasionally lurks around on rennlist. There are a ton of threads though on the IMS replacement if you search. Some think it is a small percentage that fail. Others feel it is a chronic problem. My opinion is that no one really has enough data (not even porsche), so on a lot of the forums you'll read about horror stories (of course the people with problems and those that sell the products usually only see/write about the bad stuff), and not read a lot of people praising how well their IMS bearings are still working. For me, it was just piece of mind. At 68k miles and 10 years when I removed my bearing, it was fine and would have probably lasted another 200k miles. But now I can sleep better at night. As for the extraction tool, it is possible to extract with a heavy duty bearing extractor, but I highly recommend going with the extraction tool 1ST time (it made the job much easier for me). Some people who use regular extraction tools and break something (perhaps even the tool) have to go in with more aggressive methods or tools and spend more money. Worst case would be a complete engine tear down. For locking tool, if your engine has single row bearing and 3 chains you can't get around that.

Yep! You got it right! Thanks!!!! :-) I took TB off again and noticed somehow I dislodged one of the rubber boots next to the y plenum. Just enough to create a small air leak. Once I sorted that out and tightened the clamps for the y-plenum the car is back to it's slightly wobbling idle 996 self. :rolleyes: A tip for anyone that happens to read this thread, regarding the y plenum behind the throttle body. You can make sure it is perfectly aligned by feeling inside. Your fingers will be able to "see" that the plenum is centered correctly and there are no gaps in the rubber that joins it to the intake manifold. And now I've got a clean MAF, which I hadn't planned on touching. Cheers.

Ok, repeated the unplugging MAF test, might have been out of sequence. Now it starts and idles. It sounds OK, but the idle is very rough. I'm going to try to clean the MAF to see if that helps. At least if it is the MAF, that's much less expensive than a new IACV.

EDIT: using the PST2 I activated the IACV test and could see the valve close, open, close, open without much force. So I don't think that's the problem. Something else is going on here. Might be fuel pressure related? Strange though that no codes are thrown. Help !!! I removed the throttle body and idle control valve like I normally do for a regular cleaning today. I didn't use any chemicals. I think the ICV might have finally bit the dust ??? Car won't idle at all now!!! On a cold start it just goes to about 1k rpm and then extremely rough up and down to 500 before I turn the key off (avoiding a stall). I triple checked all of the boots and seals and everything was tight, no intake leaks that I could see. No DME codes are thrown at all !!!! The throttle plate angle sensor reads 0 at no gas, and 70 at WOT. Half way is appx 35... I removed the ICV again and tested it with a 9v battery. The battery opens and closes the valve inside effortlessly and instantly, without any audible hum or buzz. With the ignition on and ICV plugged in it still buzzes/hums loudly and warm to the touch if I leave the ignition on long enough. The buzzing/humming is even more pronounced when it is in my hand unbolted from the TB. I tried resetting the DME by disconnecting the battery for a while. No luck. I also tried unplugging the MAF. No changes with either of those... Any other ideas here before I fire off an order for a very expensive ICV? Would the ICV really produce such an erratic idle and finally let the engine stall?

Using the search feature, I found these really great threads (some of which I've visited many times before). Seriously though, read these through threads and try using the search feature! It really is great! :) http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php/topic/4476-normal-operating-temperature http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php/topic/1171-engine-operating-temp-range http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php/topic/33374-temperature-gauge http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php/topic/32522-160f-thermostat-on-996-34-with-california-smog

HI I think this has been covered many times (search), but 200 F is not unusual (thanks to California smog laws). Somewhere around just past the "0 in the 180" as per the previous poster. That gauge is kinda funny anyways... if you have an older model you can even read out the temp on the A/C controls in Centigrade which is cool! If it was truly overheating you would see codes and a flashing light on the coolant indicator (TURN the MOTOR OFF if this happens). (of course there could be lots of air pocket gremlins with an improperly filled system - search for Uview Airlift). :lightbulb:

Does this look like the right stuff for a flush, prior to re-filling? http://www.prestone.com/node/424?select_region=1 Prestone®Super Radiator Flush A premium Prestone® antifreeze/coolant change begins with Prestone® Super Radiator Flush. Helps remove rust deposits and oily residue in an easy, one-step process. Premium formulation helps maximize cooling system efficiency. 1.With engine off and cool, remove radiator cap.* Drain radiator then close draincock. 2.Pour entire contents of Prestone® Super Radiator Flush into radiator and fill with water. For systems larger that 12 quarts, use two bottles. 3.Run engine with heater on highest temperature setting for 10 minutes after reaching normal operating temperature. 4.With engine off and cool, remove radiator cap, drain radiator, and close draincock. Refill with water and replace radiator cap to fully closed position. Repeat step #3. 5.Stop engine and allow to cool. Remove radiator cap, drain system and close draincock. Add enough recommended coolant to achieve a 50-70% concentration. Top off radiator with water. Replace radiator cap to fully closed position. Run engine for 20 minutes to mix coolant/water. 6.If equipped with a non-pressurized coolant reservoir, rinse, drain, and refill with a 50-70% solution of the coolant and water. Super Radiator Flush maximizes cooling system efficiency by helping to flush out harmful rust deposits, grease, and oily residue. It uses a strong chelating compound to bind rust and other corrosion deposits to help flush them out of the system prior to installing new antifreeze. Detergents emulsify oily residues. Super Radiator Flush is intended for cars with heavier build ups of rust and radiator and heater core deposits.

Water pump, gasket, crush ring ordered. Now to find some coolant (i'm not paying porsche's price @ $40 gallon (incl shipping + tax) when I can get it for $10 a gallon). AND it's my car and I do the work on it, so it's not like someone will accidentally put an incompatible coolant in there. As many have said, plenty of alternatives out there, VW G12, or any phosphate and silicate-free formula (non dexcool) will work. Examples... Zerex Extreme Life 5/150 Texaco Extended Life Shell Rotella® ELC Extended Life Coolant UNI-GARD 5/150 Mercury Extended Life Coolant Anti-Freeze Heck, since I'm replacing nearly all the coolant anyways I could change to just about anything... prestone or peak even.

Yeah I suppose you are right... 11 years is a long time for some of the plastic in the car, even though it has always been garaged and doesn't see much wet or cold weather action.

Thanks for the advice. The car has had 0 cooling problems to date but I certainly agree I don't like any unknown crud floating around in there... When I have the coolant drained, I might take the time to remove the water pump and inspect it, and then reinstall with new gasket. Or if it looks like the plastic is on it's way out that's $250 I hadn't planned on spending but I suppose it would be better safe than sorry as I do undestand they can fail pre-maturely. When I had the thermostat off a while back everything looked 100% normal as well, no pitting anywhere, and no debris to speak of. One time when I replaced the impeller on my boat it only had one two fins left and the rest of it was caught up in the plumbing, it was amazing the thing was still pumping water through!!! Oh and the electrolysis test was not for the coolant properties, but a check to see if the cooling system was being used as a cathode, potentially eating away at the anode (aluminum block, heat core, radiator, etc) by pitting/damaging the metals.... My confusion there is that I actually have a negative reading??? I suppose which is a good thing? I'm not familiar with this test, but did read that anything over 0.10 volts (positive?) is bad for your coolant system and the block, radiator, heater core, etc. is being used as a "sacraficial" anode which could lead to other really bad problems...

Hello! I've got a MY99 996 C2 with 72k on the clock and the original coolant (11 years old). 1.) I recently had the thermostat off the car and drained about 3 gal of anti freeze. It looked in decent condition, but there were about a dozen or so 1/4 of a dime or smaller black flakes in the bottom of the bucket after putting it back in the car (yes the bucket was clean prior). A couple flakes were floating. It almost looked like deteriorating rubber. It was a very small amount though. In that amount of fluid I wasn't immediately concerned about that amount of residue (though I don't want to see any in the coolant). The flakes didn't look or feel gelatenous at all, and they disintegrated just by touching them (and also broke apart when pouring it back into the tank). Unsure of the history of the coolant from previous owners other than knowing it is largely still original, whether they had added incompatible fluids - since the "lifetime" coolant is certainly beyond it's "lifetime" - I'm going to replace it. Given the fact that there is a small amount of residue in the system, should I worry about flushing the system in between drain and refill? Or just drain it out and immediately replace? Or remove and inspect parts to see if there is anything else going on. I remember with some of my old beater cars I would pour some cleaner in the radiator, fill with a garden hose, and warm it up, drain, fill with antifreeze Of course, the 911 demands a a little more care than that. Has anyone used any cleaners with success or do you just stick to distilled water when you flush prior to filling? 2.) I purchased a uview air lift 550000000 and have been reading up on it's use. A couple points I have not seen from other threads or posts here and could use some guidance. I've seen conflicting reports on the correct PSI for your compressor, some say don't exceed 20psi for fear of damaging seals/etc. Others say set it to 90PSI. Also, while I haven't read it here, some say elsewhere that after you drain the fluid and then create the initial vaccum prior to filling. STOP. Don't fill. Instead, release the pressure, then drain AGAIN. Apparently the vaccum created can draw some fluid trapped in some nooks and crannies and allow it to be drained further. Then proceed to fill according to instructions. 3.) I performed a simple electrolysis test with a multimeter. With the positive probe in the coolant expansion tank, I read negative 0.10 volts with the car off. With the car running it was negative 0.20 volts. I've read it should be BELOW 0.10 volts. Well, it is - negative... am I reading this right here or am I looking at a grounding problem somewhere? TIA!