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Hello all, I'm tracing a persistent tick/slap/knock mainly noticeable on idle, but can randomly appear at other times. Other times it goes away completely, not on cold start, not warm, nor after warm restart. I am thinking wear in the variocam system somewhere or worn lifters (I've also noticed a reduction in MPG, used to get 26-28 on the highway, now I get 20-22. In town MPG is dismal in the 15'ish range, where it used to be closer to 18-20. I'm planning to drop my 1999 996 M96 3.4L to replace the variocam pads and the minor chains. 72k on the original engine. I'm also going to replace any collapsed or out of spec lifters. I understand replacing the tappet carrier is advised when it is out of spec, although at considerable expense. I'm guessing this question probably warrants a religious answer, but I've read in some places people have had luck replacing just those lifters that are worn while others advise to replace all on one side (12 in this case, or 24 total), so you know they will all wear evenly. Any schools of thought there and/or experiences to share? Thanks!

1999 996 C2 Does anyone know if it is possible to R&R the hex drive without splitting the case? http://www.lnenginee...rive-p-140.html For example, locking the cams, removing the intake/exhaust cams, tappets, then remove the oil pump to retrofit? This guy, I think... ? 996 107 121 50, #3 below... ?

Edit: pretty sure you need to remove at least one of the intake manifolds... http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/514305-change-oil-level-sensor-diy.html Not a complete write up but a couple people mirror what I said originally.

$30-40 USD sound better to you? sunsetimports.com autoatlanta.com sonnoneporsche.com dcautomotive.com 911pcar.com 996 631 447 00 (possibly 996 631 447 01) Otherwise I would just solder it.

SY is a great color for this car!!!

Did you strike it after you heated it (red hot)?, or let it cool naturally? 1.) IIRC if you strike it with a hammer while it's hot it will make the metal brittle, and easier to weld on a bolt and/or turn with a bolt out or reverse drill bit if you have one (pb blaster is good here).. 2.) Annealing. If you let it cool naturually and slowly and didn't strike it, you would be amazed what a dremel and a few tungsten carbide bits (slow RPM) would do. It just takes lots of patience, but the tungsten carbide will go through anything. My two cents if you have a good welder option 1, otherwise option two works pretty much every time just takes a lot of patience. Afterwards since you've destroyed the threads, you can easily timesert or helicoil it. Worst case, remove the entire assembly and take it to a machine shop. They will take care of it for you. Or even replace the assembly with another from a used parts shop.

And a more humane option... http://www.getridofmoles.com/cat_scram.htm

Sorry, couldn't resist: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php/topic/4287-underside-pic-of-996/ :jump:

I highly recommend a good shop to corner balance when you are finished installing. After I put in the PSS10's it was a dramatic difference before/after having a professional properly align and balance the car to your specs.

Wow! Great job and welcome back. :jump: Another one brought back from the dead.

I didn't read the PDF, but I would second that this is really a great mod!!!! I've had numerous times at tight intersections where I feel more confident now. BTW, not sure if the mod makes the flasher alternate between side and front markers but the DIY I found a few years back makes that happen... which is pretty cool!

But I guess at this point the fan is not blowing, so does it matter if the display reads off or not? So then the only time or reason I actually have to turn it OFF, is when I have the car parked, engine off, and the acc on. For example a car wash, carpet vacuum, etc. If you are concerned about outside air coming in you can also close the vents.

Yes TSB 1701 is the latest AFAIK. [using my vast mental powers to refrain from starting another oil thread.] Honestly, spend a little time with the search feature and you'll get the answer you're looking for. There really are some great discussions on the subject! (hint, just because it's not on the approved list doesn't mean it won't fit your application)

As a contributing member you can download the oil list here: Approved Oils There are about a million threads on oil, if you use the search feature. If you search the download area for approved oils, you'll get the link above. I'll refrain from giving my opinion here so as to not start yet another thread on oil, considering it is such a religious topic.

I leave mine on Lo and fans off (no bars). When I start the car the next time it remembers that setting. Sometimes I'll hit the fan down arrow once to turn it off, but since the fans aren't on it doesn't matter.

Thanks again for the info about the TSB, that certainly clears things up based on the chain design. I think now I have the answer that I'm looking for based on my engine serial, chain type, and which tensioner to use (old style IMS tensioner in my case). And for the 1-3 and 4-6 "tensioners" the new design (superseding the old) are fine. LOL, I found this old thread though on rennlist where it still looks like your questions remained unanswered from Charles which style to use... I checked the car out today, but unfortunately with Motronic 5.2.2 it doesn't look like the actual cam angle can be monitored. (with PST2 or Durametric). Only camshaft deviation, which remains -3 for bank 1 and 0 degrees for bank 2 (as it always has been for the 10k miles I've put on the car before/after I did an IMS retrofit). BTW, durametric can only read bank 1 for some reason... Anyhow when I activate the drive link to actuate the solenoids on each bank, there is a noticeable affect in timing and the engine certainly hesitates as if though the cam timing advance has been affected by the solenoids (which I suppose without the ability to monitor the actual cam angle, one could assume by the engine hesitation/rougher idle that the solenoids are responding to me activating those drive links). Without those monitors I guess the only way to go here is R&R. ****.

You wouldn't happen to have the TSB number would you? I tried searching here but only found one for the 9PA IIRC.

Thanks for the help and research. I suppose my question is still the same though. For the variocam advance mechanisms, which I believe one for the banks 4-6 in my 996 is lazy, might benefit from the updated style that eliminates some of the start up noise until the old style is well lubricated. I guess what I'm hearing is that the new style here for the 1-3 and 4-6 is not a problem, but the question is still out for the actual "chain tensioner" for the ims crank tensioner. Correct?

These guys on Pelican. 996-105-051-58-OEM Old style 1-3 tensioner 996-105-053-58-OEM Old style 4-6 tensioner For the 1-3 and 4-6 (variocam), going old means shelling out $2000.

Thanks Rick, I'm still a little confused though. In one of your posts it sounds like you only recommend using the older style tensioner for the IMS and for banks 1-3 and 4-6 use the newer style. Is this incorrect? Are you saying use entirely the old style, for all three? Have you seen the price for the old style cylinder bank tensioners? They want $1k each (if they are even still available). At least on pelican's site, they have the new style being valid for a 1999 year car. I'm starting to notice on cold startups after sitting for a long period without running there is a persistent tick/nock/slap coming from the 4-6 side. The noise increases with RPM and doesn't go away until the engine warms up a little, sometimes it can take several minutes. If it's driven daily the noise is only present for about 5-10 seconds on cold startup, until I'm guessing what sounds like the tensioner fills up with oil. I am thinking it could be a stuck or lazy tensioner. With respect to your idea about a newer design, the cylinder tensioner paddle/blade design, there is only 1 part number in the PET: 996 105 175 52 Pictured as #30 below. And with the IMS tensioner there is only 1 part number in the PET: 996 105 165 55, which is #18 below. (and there's also a pad for this blade, 996 105 195 00) Perhaps they changed this entirely for the M97 mark XX engines? For example in the very latest engine I believe there is not even an IMS. I want to replace all the tensioners with engine in car (yes I know I have to remove A/C), prior to removing the engine later this year for a planned cam pad/chain service, but not sure which ones to order at this point. Thanks again.

I wonder if there is enough metal there to just helicoil / timesert it? A much cheaper alternative. I can't remember if there is a tightening order or not for the copious amounts of hardware on those plates or if it just crosses like the previous poster suggested. Edit: nothing in the work shop manual so probably no order other than crossing..

Reviving this old thread. Purchased the uview 5550000000 to do a coolant drain/replace on my 99' 996 C2. I only managed to get 5 gallons (almost exactly) out of the system using this procedure. Turn heater to high, fan on low. Lift bleeder valve. Remove reservoir cap. Remove drain plug on engine, drain. Remove thermostat & smaller hose next to it, drain. Remove two lines near transmission going to heater core, drain. Remove two lower radiator hoses, drain. To get the last 0.5 gallons (to make 5 gallons even) I used the uview to draw a vaccum to 25psi, then instead of refilling with coolant, I let it draw air in. Then I removed the coolant drain plug on the engine, and magically a few quarts of coolant drained, likely drawn closer to the engine by the vaccum. I repeated the process again and got another few quarts. During each run through with the uview. Where could that last pesky gallon be (to make 6 which is my understanding what the capacity is) and I suppose I could continue the above process until I capture 6 gallons? Reason I want to drain ALL of the fluid is I'm replacing with Peak global anti freeze and don't want any problems mixing the porsche anti freeze with the peak stuff, even though they should be compatible.. I heard a considerable amount of gurgling when the uview was drawing a vaccum, I'm guessing it's safe to keep drawing a vaccum repeatedly?. TIA!

I've seen a product where you drill holes just around the affected area, then grind the crease or deformed area to a small crevice/valley. Then you apply a patch behind the area and apply the product. After it cures you can sand and/or apply the special bumper filler if you need to. I can't remember the name of the product but it was specifically for any type of plastic bumpers.

+1 to previous comment. Had t Nissan once that went through a similar calamity of issues at the dealer. First it went in for a radiator leak, then the techs forgot to seal the trans fluid cooler hose properly, which ended up being a new transmission, however when they put the trans in it fried the electronics which... Anyways definitely back to the dealer (and get them to pay for the tow this time). Porsche is a reputable brand and if you give them some grief you might be surprised about them picking up the repair tab. Of course, this time it could be something simple, hopefully. Unless you have the tools to test the fuel pressure or a DTC code reader like Durametric/etc, it's difficult to say what the problem is.

Oil filler tube? I'm not familiar enough though with the Boxster to know if any of the passages/cavities in the engine/trans mating might allow oil from the top to seep into the rms/ims area... making it look like and rms/ims problem when it is really just a $40 part??? Seems a bit much though to just pull the trans, I would get a second opinion/estimate.