logray

Hi there. Great product. Assuming you don't work in a shop and are just an owner the enthusiast version will work fine. It works on a limited number of cars, so if you have friends with cars you want to use it on as well it will be limited to the number of cars you can do that with. If you need to plug it into more cars get the pro kit. The other cable options are for older cars or professional shops/racers. Just make sure your model year is covered. I think the above is all pretty well spelled out on the Durametric website, actually. http://www.durametric.com/buyus.aspx

"module failed to initialize" doesn't sound like your computer can talk to the module. Do you have a durametric also, or just the cloned PIWIS? I've heard bad things about the cloned PIWIS.

Have it towed, obviously.

Hey there, yes if you have a 5.2.2 motronic it can be re-mapped to a 1999 3.4L 996 map. You'll need the programming codes and a PST2 to do so, which a dealer should have access to the codes if you provide proof of ownership. There is a fair amount of rewiring required though... I believe tholyoak is the man you need to get a hold of. If you are a contributing member you can get the details here : http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/13527-34-swap-pdf/

Ahahahahah. You got us, again. How sneaky of you. Do that one more time and ... "The Air Bag light blinks then stays on" Hmmmm..... the smoking gun perhaps? What does your PIWIS or Durametric say about air bag module say - try entering that function and fooling around? Seriously do you have a copy of the work shop manual? There is a very good chapter on Airbag system diagnosis. (diagnosis, part 2). Unless you are a dealership or $$$ indy, you probably have a clone PIWIS... I've read they aren't always 100% reliable, perhaps it is not able to talk to your airbag module. Perhaps did you activate the transport lock by any chance (disable the system while car is being transported). All else fails, try hitting it with a BFH. (LOL BTW on the duplicate posts)

A few things come to mind. AOS (can you remove the oil filler cap with it idling or is it really hard to do that) Leak from area above that one exhaust tip - perhaps oil filler tube, cam cover (getting into exhaust somehow) Intermix (notice anything strange about the coolant?)

Wow. Well congrats on the rebuild. Hopefully it's minor from here on out. Don't laugh, but someone just finished his rebuild over on rennlist and it turned out his airbag warning system (steering wheel out) caused the same thing. Once the steering wheel was back in it fired right up. Have you tried unplugging battery for a while, then starting again? No codes from the DME, how about instrument, alarm, other modules? Tested for fuel pressure from the fuel rail test port?

Great work. Yes that stupid hose goes to the resonance flap IIRC and it's a pain in the *** to connect with the engine in car. Some people actually cut it in half on purpose. The car will run fine without it, but to ensure no vacuum leaks or other problems, have it connected to that rear plenum at some point. Be sure to run with the coolant bleeder valve in the up/locked position and be religious about keeping it full (in fact, stop on the side of the road the check it every so often and carry the appropriate mixture of coolant in your boot).

Not #21, but into the round tube side (middle) of the plenum #13 into a small inlet It goes to a change over valve then if you've already connected the two leads going to the IACV and throttle position sensor. Check above the j tube on the left for a connector (front top of engine) - above that j tube.

Yep! (or where the red circle is) Whether that's on the front or back or top or bottom of the rear plenum (depending on how it's rotated). There's just one inlet on that plenum where the hose connects. You might have to remove the throttle body (and sometimes y plenum behind the throttle body to reach it). Or perhaps the hose leading to that inlet is just laying down on the top of the engine, just underneath the center of the whole intake assembly and you need to "pluck it out" and connect it to that j tube..

Note that depending on how that rear plenum tube is rotated, the connection for that hose could vary (only one inlet on that plenum though for that particular tube). Mine happens to be in the back of the plenum (in red). As pictured in green here:

Hose on left goes to the rear of the plenum that is behind the y-plenum that is behind the throttle body. You have to do that one by feel unless you want to start ripping into things. Electric plug looks like it goes to either idle air control valve or throttle body position sensor area circled in red. (doesn't look like it goes to a change over valve above or near the circle on the left.

Thanks as always Loren!!!! :thankyou:

Page 22 of 345 in Diagnosis Part 1 (up to repair group 45) Or "page" 24 - D8 in dme set points.... two values I can't see rough running threshold and rough running thanks

Well I suppose that depends on what the PPI says. :) Certified pre owned with a warranty is a great option, if you can afford the inflated dealer prices. I would say it's a little on the high side, but not having seen the car it's tough to say. It might be worth bargaining that the common failure points need to be addressed, unless they've already been performed. RMS gasket replacement ($20 part) IMS bearing retrofit ($400-800 part) Air oil separator replacement ($150 part) Water pump replacement ($250-300 part) Cheers

It is a fantastically fun car and that looks to be a fine example. :thumbup: There are a ton of 1999 cars still on the road with no problems whatsoever. Some say the 1999-2001 mark 1 M96 engine (while it has it's faults - porous blocks, coolant starvation, scored cylinders), is a little beefier having 5 chains and a dual row IMS bearing than the 2002+ models with 3 timing chains and a single row IMS bearing. These cars like to be driven hard and not kept in a garage as a beauty queen. A 1999 car with such low miles would scare me a little, but not completely if the PPI came clean. That being said, in a great PPI scenario aside from the normal things like service history, accident damage, carfax, flooding, smog (requirement depending on where you live), etc, I would have the following checked. Unfortunately the cost of all of these things might scare the typical owner away, you would probably pay a reputable shop in the neighborhood of 3-4 hours of shop time to have most of these things completed. (in a "dream" PPI scenario removing the transmission would add another 4-6 hours and not a huge payoff for most). These are the critical areas I would check out: Ask the owner if he's kept the oil topped off, many of these cars burn oil at a regular rate by design. Engine compression, leakdown, endoscope Inspect oil & filter (oil change) - check for abnormalities, excessively leaking areas Condition and level of lube in transmission Condition of coolant (correct color, hydrometer, electrolysis, no leaks) Check the computer for DTCs & abnormal camshaft deviation values Check for smoke at startup (water vapor is OK, anything else is not) If a problem arose in some of these areas it would not scare me off, but I would want to address them quickly: Ask the owner what MPG he gets, if its in the ballpark 17-19 street & 23-27 highway that is a good sign things are in good nick. Remove oil filler cap with engine running, should be able to remove easily T/B inspection for excessive oil deposits (a little is ok) Condition of clutch If the transmission is removed in that dream scenario: Check the clutch and flywheel. Check the crankshaft for concentricity tolerance Check the condition of RMS seal & IMS flange (or short of removing the transmission at least check for excessive oil leaking near the bell housing mating area). Bonus inspections would be: Removing sump plate and inspect for debris Check for vacuum leaks I would ask is the PO if the following have been done (if they haven't and it runs OK, I would budget $2-3k to have them done by a reputable shop, you'll enjoy years and years of worry/trouble free motoring if you do): RMS gasket replacement ($20 part) IMS bearing retrofit ($400-800 part) Air oil separator replacement ($150 part) Water pump replacement ($250-300 part) Good luck!

The 986 WSM states the following regarding warm idle rough running acceptable values. (unfortunately my copy of the wsm for the 996 is missing this data - the scan of that page is bad). Rough running threshold be near 6.3. Deviation +/- 1.5 (1/s squared) Rough running shoudl be near 0. Deviation +/- 1.5 (1/s squared) Does anyone have the acceptable values from the DME for a 1999 996 3.4L? This is related to timing correct? I can't find a good definition for rough running. Thanks in advance. 72k miles. Here's what I logged in Durametric.

A possible time saving tip on this. I just had my mufflers off to check my spark plugs. Removing the mufflers is not that difficult. Once you have them out it is very easy to reach the sender with a hand tool, a stubby or even normal wrench would probably work. Probably wouldn't need any crazy extensions or crows feet...

For what it's worth my 99 C2 996 does the same thing. IIRC there are a few posts describing this. As well as in the owners manual describing what levels the low level light will come on. IIRC there is a gallon or more in the reserve, and when the light goes off it's actually well before the tank is completely drained, my OBC usually says I have 70-90 miles left. The most I've put in the car is about 14.7 gallons. If I fill up right when the low fuel light goes on I can probably only get 10 or 11 gallons in. To get the meter to read full, I have to sit there and top it off for a long time and it's not worth it for the extra gallon or two. Lately with gas prices I've been putting in $40 regardless. I have a PST2 FWIW, but haven't bothered to troubleshoot. I think in a C4 there is a TSB that there is a similar expected behavior, due to the way they had to fit the fuel tank in to compensate for lack of room with the drivetrain.

You can safely and effectively change the IMS bearing to the LN version without any camshaft locking tools. Wayne Dempsey of Pelican Parts has come up with an ingenious way of locking the sprocket on the IMS tube (which is behind the IMS flange,just on the other side of the engine case) by using three 25mm long set screws that get substituted for the IMS flange bolts. Those set screws press against the face of the sprocket (which is inside the engine, on the other side of the case) and prevent the sprocket from moving (or altering the timing). Simple, effective and fool proof, and you don't even have to find TDC and use a locking pin. Regards, Maurice. Hey Maurice, Wayne told us he was working on this some time ago. Do you have a link or more literature on his invention? I'm guessing some sort of stud that allows you to slide the ims cover off while the studs stay in place?

If that were my 99 996 I would first try re-soldering or replacing the LEDs (since I replaced all of mine with blue). If that didn't work I would try the LCD rebuild. Last ditch effort would be to phone up a dismantler and get a replacement control unit. Of course, it might be most economical to get a second hand unit straight away (assuming the LCD rebuild doesn't work). I would bet that the software is contained within the unit itself and not externally (for example it just reads from DME, doesn't actually contain any data). Also just an observation that the 6 you are seeing is probably an 8, but it is just missing the bars that make the 6 an 8... which might lead more towards a corrupt LCD or micro controller on the A/C PCB than anything.

Hello! Mine never gets below about 12.5 ish when the system is very loaded (stage 2 fans + ac + radio) and it is hot outside. There is a thread you might want to look at here which might be applicable. It is simple to diagnose if you remove the T/B you can inspect the condition of the wires or just replace them.

Roof rack and box? hey if koenigsegg can do it... why not....

Welcome! http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/27684-how-hot-should-it-run

Take a look at this and this. For your MY it looks like the same mount to me.