logray

Hah! Cool I got it right. ;-). The fluid probably looked oily because of whatever is on the ground or even oil or grime that has entered the front radiators. This is pretty common actually on any car. The RMS seal itself costs about $20 or less and is a fairly straight forward thing to do. A little RMS leak or weep is generally not a bad thing, especially if it was recently done in 2007 and the car doesn't use or leak a lot of oil. Yes they can leak again in the future. It is a service item that should be replaced every so often. It's removing the transmission and reinstalling that takes all the shop labor time. In addition, it could also be the IMS flange that is leaking. Just my opinion, but the $950 for 45k service is way to high, a lot of these things are DIY - and an independent shop wouldn't charge as much. I would purchase the IMS Guradian from Jake Raby flat 6 innovations to monitor your IMS bearing, if you haven't had the IMS bearing retrofit. This will give you warning if it is about to fail.

Hello there, have you searched for faulty ignition switch? ;)

In process of some various engine maintenance on MY 99 996. Examined the secondary air system yesterday. The lower SAI valve is completely filled with carbon and is not functioning. The upper check valve is still working and it looks like the lower SAI valve has taken most of the carbon build up (hence reason why no CELs). I have a new valve on order and cleaned out all of the plumbing on the top. But now I'm concerned about the passageways through the engine. They are both caked with several millimeters worth of build up. Has anyone ever performed this cleaning on a 996 similar to 993 procedure? http://p-car.com/diy/sai/1/sai.htm Or perhaps have a SAI passageway diagram? Although I have the cam covers removed already, I'm trying to avoid removing the heads from the block to do this cleaning, since that would mean about $300 for bolts and gaskets. I know there is an updated combo valve you are supposed to retrofit, but at considerable expense to change out a lot more parts, I opted to stay with what I've got. TIA!

Nice work, :welcome: and great thread!!! I'll keep this one in my handy list. :thankyou:

I've been in that area and it is indeed a strange piece of foam. There is a large bulk that sandwiches into where the engine harness grommet where you've likely run you wire. Then a small narrow bit that runs to the larger portion that sits behind the quarter panel. It's a major pain to get it just right. I think this is the one you are talking about, #16, but the picture doesn't do a good job of showing how it fits other than the orientation. And the drivers side one pictured is backwards from the one you are working with.

Can anyone recommend an alternative lube for the tube o-rings? The dealer quoted me a huge sum of money for a giant tube, which is great if I was an engine re-builder. The drive to the dealer to get a small amount (hopefully free) is a 2 hour round trip. Would rather go to the local Napa. Thanks!

Having been there done that myself, trust me it's a slippery slope trying to make one of these NA cars "faster" or better. I agree certainly suspension and a.good corner balance goes a long way. So does reducing the weight. HP gain when you bolt on brand new exhaust, warm air intake, ECU program, maybe worth a few at the dyno. But at the expense of $5k or even more. Not worth it. About the only thing I think would make a real difference is putting a super charger on it. For the money, I would rather have a stock 996 or 997 turbo.

Are there any DTCs from the computer (do you have a code reader? Or just go to autozone and they will pull the codes for free). Then post them back here. Sounds fuel or electrical related, but there are a lot of other reasons why it wouldn't start. Ignition switch, among a few others are pretty common. Would be interesting if someone else chimes in about the fuel pumping issue being co-related.

Just a thought: since you ran the A/C for the first time the stuff in the front could just be residue on or under the condensers (normal) and it's just basically water mixed with a little something - possibly gas or whatever was on the ground. I haven't seen this on my 996 yet, but on other cars if the A/C runs long enough on a hot day, it too can generate some condensation on the outside of the compressor and drip down onto the ground as water, picking up whatever oils or other stuff might be caked onto the car's internals. The A/C compressor is approximately near the rear passenger wheel. Next time it happens you could open up the rear deck lid and take a look at the A/C - see if you see any water dripping from it or on the pipes leading up to the condensers in the upper right of the engine bay. But I agree with Loren to check the fluid smell, touch, and taste (just kidding about the taste). It could very well be something else.

Thanks, found a shop nearby... http://docinjector.com/services1.htm

Thanks, yeah I learned the latex glove bung trick from Ed on Wheeler Dealers. Actually you put a small cloth inside and then tie the glove around itself. Makes for a perfect water tight seal. Just be sure to buy the kind that are resistant to solvents, oils, etc.

Hello! Assuming you don't literally mean "into the engine" where the timing chains are (actually that might not be that bad if it goes to the bottom of the sump plate - or it could be REALLY bad and destroy your engine), but on the outside of the engine under the accessory belt. The accessory serpentine belt exterior to the car (the long rubber one), is very simple to change. 1.) Basically you remove the airbox (unplug maf, unclip wires from fasteners, loosen screw, and clamp around throttle body). Then draw a picture of how the belt routes around the pulleys 2.) Then you put a wrench on the tensioner pulley and push down, this releases tension on the belt and you can just slide it off. 3.) Install the new belt while placing tension on the tensioner pulley. 4.) Reinstall airbox according to installation procedures. A shop would charge 1 hour labor plus the belt. I'll try to hunt around for a DIY but here is the page from the WSM:

If I remember correctly, if the problem has already corrected itself, the light will go off on it's own after an annoyingly huge number of ignition cycles (like 40 or 50 or something). Can't find the post I read that in though, right now. Edit: here it tis' - the light went off in the memory banks. 40 restarts, at least on a 996. YMMV. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/8574801-post217.html

Oil looks pretty clean for 750 miles. I would consider putting back in once my work is done, but will probably change it. Not a hint of coolant - then again I don't have an oil anaylsis machine in my garage. I'll probably send a sample off to Jake. The coolant is sparkling clean. I just changed it about 100 miles ago. I already have a new AOS ready to go and just about every pipe, clamp, tube, seal, and connector that goes with it. If you see another thread I started here I noticed bank 1-3's plugs are all wet. Bank 4-6 are dry comparatively. I am guessing at this point that is either due to the AOS dumping oil or coolant into 1-3, or a rich condition. Just guessing at this point since I haven't cracked open any covers yet. I hadn't planned on going past the lifter carrier, but for my peace of mind I might have to remove the heads for further inspection. I don't know enough about the internals of the AOS to know if it's possible to fail for just 1-3 tube and not the 4-6 tube. Or perhaps the coolant breech/crack is so minute it makes it into 1-3, but not all the way over the top of the engine to 4-6??? Anyways I'm going to cut the old AOS in half, and then curse at it, and probably even smash it once I'm done with it. This would be either dumb luck, or an incredible stroke of luck to have caught an intermix before it turned bad. The car was running pretty good before I removed the engine, albeit slightly rough and wobbly idle. Good power though. Not surprised about the idle with all the leaks my car has developed in 12 years. 4-6 AOS pipe connector, pretty much every o-ring associated with the AOS, all 6 spark tubes, both cam covers, the rear case bolts, oil filler tube, solenoid cover, and on and on and on. Even the oil filler tube decided to literally break in half while I was dropping the engine. I think it knew I had ordered another one to replace it. :rolleyes:. You wouldn't believe all the little souvenirs from people I found resting on top of the block. I hope it's just the stupid plastic AOS though. Too bad the motorsports version doesn't fit in the 3.4L. Before I start cracking into it. Now that I've got a good starting point to tackle for all of the various leaks, I've got the engine stripped down aside from the fuel rails, and it's bunged and prepped for a wash before the end of the week.. Pretty soon I'll be starting a thread here and rennlist, providing a website with all the pics I've taken so far.

Now I know why 1-3 might be running a little wet and rough... I know I've read this before, but came someone provide a little "comfort" here... <_< a cracked/failed AOS can be a source of intermix correct? Along with oil cooler and <cough> cracked head and <cough> blown expansion plug. There was just a tiny amount of this stuff in there in the 1-3 tube only. Curiously none going to the 4-6 tube. NO other evidence of intermix thus far, oil good, coolant good. Intake plenums a little oily but valves are clean. Still pulling her apart. Maybe too soon to tell.

Good suggestion. Added to my to do list. Thanks. Any shop you can recommend?

Hah! Good question. I won't have an answer until I have the car back together. The engine is out right now for various things. Cam pads, lifters, chains, gaskets, seals. Once I have it back together I'll report back in, thanks for the quick reply.

Pulled the plugs today after they've been in for about 10k miles. All of bank 1 looks like it is running rich, the plugs are wet. The right tailpipe from bank 1 is sooty, and the left tailpipe is not. The soot returns in just a few hundred miles if I clean it off. Bank 2's plugs appear in much better shape. I have a hard time believing this is anything more than a rich condition? since it is affecting the entire bank. Compression test was good, all within 5-10%. For example, if this is caused by higher oil burn off in bank 1, it's hard to believe it could be leaky valve seals, scored cylinders, worn rings, etc. on the entire bank. The only other thing I could think of is perhaps the AOS is dumping more oil somehow into bank 1 than bank 2??? Fuel filter was replaced 1 year ago with no affect. I also run fuel cleaner about every 2000 miles or so. Thanks in advance for any advice or direction. Pics in order of cylinders starting with 1 and ending with 6. bank 1 bank 2

Well, here you go -57 arrived today and here it is. Basically it looks exactly the same as the old one. Perhaps there will be a TSB or more likely it will just show up in PET with the next update. The only difference from the three tensioners is the one for cylinders 4-6, it has a much flatter head and a allen key to it.

Here's a great thread (and direct link to a post) I keep handy for this situation. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/17048-howling-noise-at-startup-airemissions/page__p__85708#entry85708

I have a set of locks to purchase w/key if you are interested. PM me for details.

LOL, you can take it to your local landfill and see if they'll pay you for the scrap metal. :rolleyes: In the old days, you used hand over all your old cores. Sadly these days we humans tend to waste more and more and more... Anyhow great to hear it's OK now.

You shouldn't need to have the radiators flushed unless the car had a cracked head/intermix problems. Just the outside of the radiators and in between the AC evaporator and radiators is good enough. The DIY outlines the specific procedures. I agree with juniinc that there could be air in the system. If you performed coolant hose repairs, the DIY I referenced earlier in post #6 is useful as well since there is a specific bleeding procedure to follow if you don't have an vacuum tool to refill the system with.

I think that is OK too, as long as the stage 2 fans kick on (very loud fan noise from front of car). I've read about drivers that reach track temps of 105+ quite regularly. Well worth cleaning your radiators though if you have never done this before (see post #6 above).

Please be careful supporting the engine with a jack. You have to do it in the right place. There are plenty of other DIYs out there that describe this process in more detail, including safe engine jacking locations. The order of steps in the original post is a little off, so please read and be careful. Support the engine SAFELY AND FIRST before you touch the mounts. Do not jack directly under the sump plate (unless you know how to do that safely). For example, do not just put the jack's cup directly under the plate.