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logray

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Everything posted by logray

  1. I'm not sure if you will need to calibrate or activate, sorry. That info might be in a work shop manual, and you might also need a Durametric, PST2, or PIWIS. I think at the very least I would start with the replacement part and see if the computer throws any airbag warning lights, then go from there. It might only be 1 hour of a shop's time, or perhaps access to a computer that can reset codes or activate anything required.
  2. I found some information. VW/Audi P/N 058-103-419 is the number for a 6x11x36mm valve guide. According to the website below it fits a 1999 3.4L 996, still looking though to verify this. http://www.ecstuning...103_419/ES2295/
  3. Hello. Yes certainly if you want more sound then mod the heck out of your exhaust. The fister mod is talked about alot to improve sound for less money. As for suspension. Certainly if you slap on a set of PSS10's you are going to have ground clearance issues over stock. However, we are only talking about a few inches at most. You can raise them out of spec, but perhaps to the detriment of their longevity and ride quality (stiffness), and not a lot of extra clearance. That being said, I have a set of PSS10's and am extremely cautious around obstacles. I've taken the car onto dirt roads with lots of pot holes and also over tall speed bumps. It takes a much more watchful eye and cautious driving attitude. I would recommend a good quality sump guard. FWIW, the GT2 and GT3 are "street cars" that are normally lowered and I've seen a few on the road - nicer roads albeit - such as Santa Monica PCH in Los Angeles. I'm not sure how the roads are in Jamaicia. I wouldn't trade the PSS10's for the stock suspension though. They are so much more balanced and "locked" to the road. When the rear end gets loose it is much more predictable. They are also adjustable, on the highest setting the car is on rails, and on the lowest setting it becomes more tolerable to daily driving. Although still much stiffer than stock. Hope this helps.
  4. On my 996 I use my fog lights sometimes for DTRL.
  5. While tearing down a head for a valve job, my shop found 5 guides that are totally out of spec and has ordered replacements to press in. Funny thing is, I can't find the P/N anywhere for the life of me. Does anyone have the P/N for #4 below, perhaps in an old version of PET or elsewhere? :thankyou:
  6. Hello there. The "politically correct" answer... You can get the official Porsche workshop manuals of course, but you might have to work for an authorized shop or Porsche dealer... https://techinfo2.po...r?Type=GVOStart Currently, they list the following price for the wiring diagram: "Document - Wiring Diagrams 8.00 EUR (plus VAT)" You can also get a "bentley" manual, which I've heard is also very good and provides a lot more than just the one time purchase of the wiring diagram. http://www.bentleypublishers.com/ Cheers
  7. Regarding valve guide clearance: courtesy Macster on rennlist, from a 987 forum in this post about a 9PA: "...964 valve clearances are 0.0011 inches to 0.0022 inches with a wear limit of 0.0059 inches..." "...I mentioned the 964 valve clearance numbers and both [Porsche techs] said those numbers are very close to the valve clearances for the new engines, in fact most Porsche engines. There's no magic involved..." But that still leaves open the 3 (or 5) way angles and widths, no where to be found. Surely someone has this info.
  8. Do you the fingers coming out of this thing? If so you can get a used one one for $100 at http://www.dcautomotive.com. The above part is for cars without tiptronic (manual). There is a different part number for the tiptronic. To find the precise part though... If it's attached to the a/b module itself, they also sell "used" "new" airbag modules for $250, but you'll need to provide your car's exact year, model, and interior color code (found on inside cover of maintenance book, or inside of front trunk lid). I wouldn't mess around with airbag safety and epoxy, especially when it's your own.
  9. I can't remember where I read about this and what it does (PSE or PSM or lighting or ???), but I wouldn't worry. I have the same connector on my car and it isn't connected, and the car runs fine. Just leave it tie wrapped to the harness out of the way of the serpentine belt and airbox.
  10. This is crazy because I'm having deja vu about this topic. There are about 3 different threads here and elsewhere I was reading in the past few days related to the same problem. If I remember one of the cases dealt with loss of fuel pressure after sitting for a period of sitting and it sounded similar to your cars symptoms. I don't remember if there was a resolution to their problems though. Anyways, that might not be what you are dealing with if it cranks but no start at all. The airbag and immobilizer modules can disable fuel. Another possibility might be crankshaft position sensor, among others. There are plenty of others. DME, etc. etc. etc. Although I would have to go back to the fuel delivery system since you seemed to have temporary success with replacing the fuel pump. The above suggestions might just be red herrings. Do you have a Durametric to read any stored DTCs (trouble codes) if any?
  11. HAH. Yeah I agree about the 993. If only money were no object. LOL.
  12. A recommendation for whatever model you end up with is to buy the IMS guardian from flat6innovations.com and you will get a warning before your IMS bearing will fail. Then perhaps you wouldn't need to proactively retrofit your bearing. FWIW, the IMS problem exists with the 3.6L as well all the way up until the very latest engine released this or last year? where they eliminated this from the design IIRC. In fact, some newer models after 2007ish IIRC have an IMS bearing that cannot be replaced... so you should feel "lukcy" an older model car can have it replaced. I did an LN IMS swap about 10k miles ago, my original bearing at 62k would probably have lasted the life of the engine. I also like the peace of mind that the IMS guardian will provide when it is released. http://www.flat6innovations.com/shop/home.php?cat=399 I've always read to buy the newest Porsche you can afford. :rolleyes:
  13. Mine were still ticking on bank 1 cylinder 2. 5W40 didn't help. Maybe 15w50 would? Anyways... Sometimes it would tick for 5 minutes. Other times it went away within a few seconds. 5 minutes is not normal. A few seconds of ticking on cold startup is normal while they start spinning and filling up with oil. I'm in the middle of various services to my engine. One of them being replacing the lifters.
  14. Or take a wire brush to it and a little water or de-greaser.
  15. And here is where you find your serial number: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php/topic/16437-anyone-know-where-the-vin-is-on-the-996-engines/page__p__82129__hl__%2Bengine+%2Bvin__fromsearch__1#entry82129
  16. The 99 year M96-01 engine model is designated as 66X. So in that case it would be normal to have an X. But as Loren stated having an "X" or "AT" after that or before the "66X" would indicate exchange/rebuilt by Porsche (of course other re-builders probably don't stamp a different serial) The below is a FANTASTIC thread I keep for just such occasions: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php/topic/5353-m960-engine-sn-decoding/ As an interesting note, blue paint near the oil pan means the case was rejected at the factory and sent back to be reworked.
  17. Bump on this thread. Likely sending my heads off to a machine shop for cleaning and valve job. Did anyone ever get the specs?
  18. 996 573 929 01 supersedes (replaces) 996 573 929 00. If you have a new 996 573 929 00 it should work OK. Sometimes the superseded parts can be "redesigned" for improvement. Or sometimes the superseded (newer) part numbers just replace something that is no longer available and it is the same part functionally.
  19. Do you mean "996 573 929 01 1"? That doesn't sound like a valid part number, typically if there is a suffix on there it will be two or three digits, but I've never seen just 1 digit. 996 573 929 01 is the only P/N I show...
  20. Here you go: 99657392901.
  21. It goes into the resonance flap valve mounted to the back side of the rear intake plenum. It goes into #21 pictured below.
  22. Agree on just replacing the fuel filter which includes attached line and filter side clip. Assuming yours is a -01 or older... Part number 996 110 253 01 As of 6/24/11... Only $29.17 at http://www.porscheoemparts.com and possibly less at http://www.renntech.org/forums/spoffers/sunset/. Only 30.75 at http://www.pelicanparts.com.
  23. Thanks. I have some sea foam that I can flush from the top followed by water and compressed air.
  24. So i have engine out and cam covers removed. where do the other side of those ports come out, near the exhaust valves?
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