logray

That sounds reasonable to me. Perhaps the connector can activate or monitor the various SAI EGR system components, check valve solenoids, SAI pump and so forth that are not available via PST2/etc. FWIW though, the connector is not part of the engine wiring loom.

Bingo! From my 99 USA C2... (engine is out of car so it was super easy to snap this photo)

The coolant tank is expensive and the process to drain and refill also is a little cumbersome and requires the right knowledge, so that is a little high, but probably not out of the ballpark - especially if you are at a dealer.

Or this??? http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing.htm

The Pelican bearing is NOT going to be equal quality with the LN bearing as Wayne (Pelican CEO) has pointed out in the past. IT is reportedly going to be closer to the OEM quality bearing. That being said (if it is ever released) it will be functional and perhaps you would have to replace "more often" than the LN bearing. If you want "the best solution", then the LN bearing kit is the way to go. If you haven't read through this web page, I highly recommend doing so. From top to bottom. http://www.lnengineering.com/ims.html Excerpts from the above website. "What is the IMS Upgrade? To resolve these known IMS problems, we have engineered our IMS upgrade with a billet chromoly steel hub flange, an increased diameter bearing support/retainer (also manufactured out of chromoly), also providing increased bearing area and dynamic load capacity of almost 5,000 lbs. with our triple bearing - compared to 2200 lbs. for the single, 3060 lbs. for the dual row, and 3650 lbs for the MY06 and later single row. In addition, we use Porsche's revised seal to ensure leak free operation and we permanently seal the ims tube (behind the bearings) to prevent it from filling with oil allowing us to use open bearings for improved cooling and lubrication. Your shaft is returned to you, reconditioned and upgraded - cleaned, assembled, and bench tested. We offer this service for all intermediate shafts MY97 through MY08. LN Engineering offers our machine-in upgrade for early and later style intermediate shafts on an exchange basis or we can upgrade your IMS for $895 plus refundable core charge if on exchange basis. MY06-08 shafts receive a new OE Porsche flange, seal, and IMS, as well as an updated ceramic hybrid bearing and the shaft also goes through the same processes as earlier single and dual row bearing intermediate shafts, receiving single updated larger bearing instead." "Does installing an IMS retrofit or doing an IMS Upgrade make my engine immune to an IMS failure? It's hard to answer that question. Porsche revised the design three times across the MY97 to MY08 M96 engine and eventually decided to eliminate the IMS completely from the new MY09 engines. It may be advisable to consider the IMS a service item, like a timing belt in many modern cars. Seeing that we started to see more MY05 engines with IMS failures in late 2009 as well as failures in MY06 (with revised 3rd gen bearing) in late 2010, that may suggest that bearing replacement (or inspection at bare minimum) should be considered every four years or 50,000 miles to 5 years or 60,000 miles, similar to many manufacturers' powertrain warranties. That said, we've put the best bearings we can in our IMS Retrofit Kits and Upgrades to give your M96 the best fighting chance for a long service life. Currently we have three years of service of our IMS Retrofit and IMS Upgrades with zero failures and several thousand in service"

The groove are on the crank pulley line up with the OT line in the case. Unless you mean the DIY walkthrough, some honest advice for you. After re-reading this thread we have been guiding you step by step... I suggest you get your hands on a work shop manual and read through it, otherwise this is going to take a very long time... no problem either way, but things would make a lot more sense and much less chance for error if you read through that manual as opposed to stitching the pieces together from this thread.

Coolant. It is a long hose that plugs Into the coolant expansion tank drivers side engine bay.

http://www.topgear.com/uk/car-news/new-porsche-011-991-driven-review

Nice and congrats, just curious what break in procedures were provided to you?

Here are some pics. I posted the specs in the other thread. Cleaned and gently bead blasted. New seals. Vacuum tested, valves cleaned and 3 way cut, 5 guides replaced. Lightly sanded mating surfaces. http://www.renntech....165#entry204165

The part number they used to replace the bad guides was : 996 104 115 60

Here are the angles they used for the valve job: 30 - 60 -45 Ex guides were between .0015 and .0025 (except for the 5 that they replaced) In guides were between .0012 and .002 Stem heights were 1.695" to 1.702" They also said anyone would be crazy to run guides that are nearing .0059" wear.

Busted booster spring?

Maybe these will help. The clip is on the top connector and once depressed the connector slides away from the engine. The part that is attached to the sensor is also clipped into a metal harness.

The teeth are about 3.5 mm tall. On three chain engines they can jump more easily. 5 chain engines it is much less likely. It is still worth removing the cam caps to verify the timing marks regardless. Yes, if the timing is off, you can have piston/valve contact and possible meltdown. Here is the cylinder designation for you:

It's a clip on the upper right hand (white) connector.

Here are some "stream of conscious thoughts" in no particular order or dependencies, some of which were mentioned previously. 1.) The chain skipped a tooth somewhere and your timing is off. Simply re-time, check timing again, then start the engine and enjoy the "fun" paddle. If you can't successfully re-time it might require additional engine dismantling, starting with the cam covers according to procedure. This is greatly simplified with the engine out of car. 2.) One of the flanges on the end of the cam has been bent somehow and the cam position sensor is reporting an erroneous value (say for instance if it was bent whilst installing/removing/handling the cam shaft). In this case the timing is OK, just the CPS or flange is wrong. 3.) A cam position sensor (and/or wiring) has gone bad, even though there are no codes being thrown. 4.) DME is faulty and needs to be re-flashed. "The intake cam has a notch at one end but not both ends like the exhaust cam does. This is a 5-chain car if that makes a difference." TDC looks like this, with the 1-3 intake cam pointing out (near the AOS).

Good to hear your feedback as well on the suspension setups and congrats on all of the work you had done. Now drive the pants off of it !!!! :thumbup:

Sounds more like an assembly issue if it was a valve keeper. But still, I would pursue that for 100% equally for quality of workmanship. A small metal shim "failing" is probably very unlikely, however if it is not shimmed correctly, that is probably more likely (and more explainable as a quality of workmanship issue than parts failure). You can write to PCA, but I'm not sure what success you might have. Just a thought/opinion.

Yep, you've got it right. For what it's worth, I don't think the order of 1-3 or 4-6 tensioner matters if you are going to do both, but 1-3 is certainly easier to access and is a must since it's on the flywheel side where the bearing is. The revised 4-6 tensioner under the A/C has an allen head and if I remember right can be loosened and possibly removed from at least the threads with a long hex driver and likely without removing the A/C. Also check to make sure the new IMS flange doesn't contact the flywheel teeth.

My local machine shop already did the cut. I'll get the specs from them when I pick up the heads later today or tomorrow. I had 5 valve guides that were toast. They are pressing new ones in. I was getting ticking in #2 and it turns out is actually the valve guides so far out... not the lifters. When I went to the shop yesterday we put a valve in and the amount of play in the guide was astonishing. I couldn't believe what a professional job they are doing, they turn a lot of heads around. I'll post some pics.

If the "jerk" just lasts a split second or two right after you shift (in any gear) and then it is fine I would first check the motor/transmission mounts and the suspension. Unfortunately if it only happens with this one gear then I would say you could have a gearbox issue. Does your car have PSM (stability management), that could also play a role? - but again should affect all gear selections.

Good choice to be safe as possible. If you didn't follow those steps and a chain skipped, which is more common on 3 chain cars - it would mean a lot more dis assembly to get it right again (cam covers, etc.). Wayne's pionneering approach actually has you perform the procedure with the engine NOT at TDC. However if you are using the cam locks then I would advise you to follow the LN procedure. You can find out more information about the procedure from his write up. It is a good read. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing.htm As per the procedure, you should relieve tension on the camshaft chain tensioners before loosening the IMS tensioner. The torque value for the tensioners is 59 ft lbs.

Find a smaller boat or buy a big truck.

The answer is it depends on the year. 5 chain models you can get away with just REMOVING the main IMS tensioner and the 1-3 tensioner. Locking the cams is recommended but the procedure can be successful without. Removing 4-6 tensioner is also recommended, however the procedure can be successful without doing this. With 3 chain models, you want to lock the cams in place with a lock tool, and have as much insurance as possible, including loosening or removing the tensioner. ON a different note, Wayne at pelican has pioneered and ingenious method of doing this which doesn't require locking cams, and just using a set screws in place of the IMS flange bolts to pin the ims so it won't move. Loosening the tensioners is also talked about in some DIYs and some have had success with doing this, however IIRC the "official" procedure is to remove them completely. As always, after performing an IMS retrofit, verifying timing is highly recommended and cheap and easy insurance (new cam caps) to validate the car won't explodo when you starto.