logray

1. Bricking means it's toast. I've done that to a DME before with aftermarket flash software. In other words you've fried the eeprom (flash memory). The only hope for the DME is to have it sent to a shop such as http://www.protomotive.com and have them desolder the flash chip to repair the software, then resolder it. 2. A DME can be reflashed. If you can't reflash it with a PST2, reference above statement. 3. A dealer will probably not touch it with a ten foot pole unless it it in your car and you claim "ignorance".

Richard is correct. I can and have wired a DME on my bench, power it with a 12 volt supply, and then connect to it with a PST2. It doesn't even have to be in the car.

I understand it is possible to extract the portion of the immo code that the car cares about when you are programming, although not sure about obtaining the entire entire code. It is possible to extract the entire DME programming code using the same EEPROM read method as above. As for finding a vendor that will provide those services above... that is going to be the hard part. It either requires desoldering and special software or just special software and way to extract the DME's flash program. The much more simple option however is if it is your car and your vin and your hardware you can provide proof ownership to a dealer and they should give you all the codes for your car. It might take a few dealers but one will eventually give you your cars codes.

Ditto on Durametric for Porsche, it is really great!

A recommendation, buy the IMS guardian from Flat 6 Innovations (pre-order now, ships sometime Sept/Oct this year). The device will provide preemptive warming before the bearing fails. You must act quickly though if the alarm goes off. But it will save the expense of bearing R&R unless/until you actually need it. http://www.flat6innovations.com/shop/home.php?cat=399 Your bearing might last forever and you don't need to undergo the expense. If money is not an object though, have it replaced and also buy the IMS guardian. The tip removal probably adds a couple hours shop time (no more than 2-4) over a manual.

Sorry I'm not sure if I have those pictures I probably deleted them. I did take some but they were out of focus or the exposure was bad. Bank 2 generally had less carbon than bank 1, and mirrored what the plugs looked like.

If the previous owner does not have record of it, then it is very difficult to say for certain without removing the transmission. On a manual car, there is a small cavity on the drivers side transmission bell housing where the flywheel is exposed on the top - but the ability to route a boroscope camera in through that opening and down to where the IMS flange is... sounds pretty unlikely to me. It would probably have to be fiber optic. So in other words, no. Once you have the transmission out, clutch and flywheel removed it is very easy to see if the flange has been changed to the LN engineering model or not. Besides that, you might inquire to LN engineering directly if they received an order from a certain individual, whether they would give that info out - or whether the PO actually installed or had it installed is another question. You could of course also pursue it with the shop that did the installation, if you can find that information.

Thanks! I have bits and pieces of the DME numbers, for example cam deviation, rough running values, but some of the others are misplaced. However, I was not as concerned with the before on the numbers, because my decision to do the rebuild was not based on bad readings. One did not need a computer to determine there was a problem (as detailed by my post). I was mainly concerned once I put it all back together that the numbers would jive with what the factory says they should be at. That being said, if you think your numbers are off, I encourage you to look at the DME setpoints. Here they are for the 996. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/38219-acceptable-rough-running-values If yours are off, then you can ask questions about what those numbers might mean and how you can try to correct them. As for the fuel report, here you go:

It's been a month long journey into the depths of my 1999 996 C2 M96-01, but I am finally there and the car is on the road again! If you want to skip all of the boring commentary and head straight for the annotated pictures, then here is the link: https://picasaweb.go...6pcarnut/Engine (the email address associated with this account is not monitored, PM me or post here if you would like to send me a message) Some commentary about the process for the readers. PROBLEMS 1.) In the past 5,000 miles, oil consumption had gone from about 1 quart per 1500-2000 miles to 1 quart per 1000 miles. Still within Porsche spec, but such a rapid increase was worrying. I also knew that there were a ton of leaks that needed to be addressed, such as the spark tubes, camshaft covers, cam solenoid cover, AOS tubes, oil filler neck, and on and on and on. However leaks aside, the big indicator here that something was afoot was that bank 1's tailpipe was accumulating soot and producing purplish smoke on startup and high RPMs much more so than bank 2's pipe which was not exhibiting these issues. 2.) The oil pressure was fine at start-up, 5 bars. However when the car was warm it would fluctuate very slightly a few points in either direction of 1 bar at idle. Sometimes .8 bars. Cleaning the sender terminals did not help. I did not drive the car very long with this condition. In fact, barely at all before I decided to do this work. You don't want to mess with low oil pressure. This problem and the next one were what really got the ball rolling on this endeavor. 3.) There was an increasingly worsening knocking from bank 1 (1-3). The knocking would "seem" to stop after about 30 seconds on cold start, and I thought that this could be lifters or tensioners taking their sweet time to fill up with oil. One time the ticking lasted for 5 minutes. That really put the icing on the cake for the decision. After much Internet research, I determined that it could be stuck or collapsed lifter noise, because I couldn't tell whether it was coming from the top or bottom and that it would seem to go away after the car had oil filling the parts (but it was actually still there). In the back of my mind I also had thought that it could be oil pressure, blockage, valve guide, still could be worn rings, or perhaps issue with a chain tensioner or variocam unit as well. (after researching more and using the screwdriver stethoscope trick, I discovered that the knocking was present in cylinder #2, in the bottom end, but it was also present in #1). The exhaust valves in cylinder #2 were most heavily coated in carbon as well. Eventually, this realization and discovery later that the lifters were OK from my non-professional mechanical knowledge prompted me to pull the heads and have a valve job performed by professionals. ACTION Each problem individually above one might address on the surface by changing or swapping spark plugs, coil packs, and oil viscosity (which I had all done), however when those didn't have a noticeable affect on the issues, I decided to do something about the nervousness and drop the engine. A bevvy of parts were ordered. Because a lot of the parts on this car is relatively inexpensive, I decided to R&R many of the components which I had isolated before removing the engine. For example the 4th and 5th chains cost only half that of the bicycle chains I go through several times a year on my road bike. Each of the three chain tensioners were less than $100. Some people might question why I replaced both oil scavenge pumps after only 75,000 miles and 12 years of life, however in the overall cost of the project the investment was minor. I'm glad I did too, because one was not rotating as freely as the other, and no where near as freely as a new unit. An LN engineering billet hex oil pump driver and genuine oil pump spring and piston were also sourced. Waiting for the parts was actually the most discouraging part of the entire process for me. A few times I had to wait for parts from Germany which meant 7+ days. I replaced nearly every gasket, o-ring, and washer I could which was external to the engine, including some which are internal such as the valve seals (done by the machine shop) and head gaskets (can't avoid doing that or the bolts if you remove the heads). In hindsight I should have ordered the ARP studs for just a few hundred dollars more than the stock single use head bolts. I ordered 24 new "BMW" INA lifters, in case they were some of the source of the problem. Also in hindsight, instead of ordering individual gaskets and orings I could have ordered the complete gasket set, which probably had more in it than I was going to use but would have been easier (although somewhat more expensive) than ordering ala carte. WORK Here are the major highlights on what I replaced or work performed. Complete valve job was performed by Riebes machine shop including: Cleaning, gentle bead blast, and light resurfacing, vaccum and pressure test. Three way valve cut, 5 new valve guides (2 were horrifically worn - the source of the knock), new valve seals, and overall inspection for valve train components (springs, etc.). The machine shop also resurfaced my fabspeed stainless bank 1 exhaust header, it was badly bowed out in the center which plagued me with constant re-torquing, stripped threads, damaged bolts, and a lot of helicoils later. GOOD BYE exhaust leaks!!!! Head gaskets Head bolts Variocam ramps (two were heavily pitted and scored) 4th and 5th timing chains 24 new (old style) lifters LN engineering billet oil pump hex driver OEM oil pump pressure spring & piston Both oil scavenge pumps Oil pressure sender (cleaning the terminals did not help) All three external chain tensioners (all were scored) Replaced many coolant and AOS hoses New air oil separator Countless gaskets, o-rings, & washers Micro encapsulated rear case bolts Replaced water pump (oem, peace of mind) Replaced thermostat (oem, old one was lazy) Resealed and inspected oil pan 4 new lambda sensors (3 were very "slow") - killer deal from Amazon 6 new spark plugs (packs have about 20k on them) Fuel injectors sent out for test, cleaning, orings, and new filters Oil filler tube and cap New "04" coolant cap 10 quarts Castrol 5w40 Oil filter Cleaned IACV Thorough cleaning of engine exterior Cleaning of any interior or exterior part I reinstalled Thorough Intake plenum cleaning Inspected DMF and clutch Replaced about 1 quart of CHF P/S fluid Inspected polyrib belt New SAI check valve, hoses, tubing and elbows, and cleaning Repainted coolant tubes Flushed 12 year old Porsche coolant out and replaced all coolant with Peak Global using Uview Airlift 550000000000 Cam caps Ordered new RMS but didn't install because old was bone dry !!!!!!RESULTS!!!!! The results of all of the above are restored confidence in driving the car. The oil leaks appear to have vanished, since the engine is so clean it is easy to spot fresh oil. Low end torque seems to have dramatically improved on the few drives I've taken. Although I've taken it there a couple times, I haven't yet "fully tested" the high end RPM range because I'm going to give it a bit of a break in and "get comfortable with the rebuild" period first. Oil pressure now stays dead straight on at 1.2 bars hot idle and 5 bars cold idle. Last and certainly not least, NO MORE smoke at startup or high RPMs (thank you valve job). Time will tell if the soot or oil consumption returns. NO MORE ticking or knocking (outside of normal lifter and valve train noise I hear on any car). Thanks to the new thermostat the car gets to temperature much more punctually than it used to. The engine idles much more smoothly than before, it stays pretty dead level on 680 rpm - whereas before I'm sure there were some leaks in the system it would fluctuate some, the plugs were fouled too so not surprised. Warm idle numbers are pretty much dead on with the factory DME set points. Load signal 1.6 ms Air mass 20 kg/h Mat film MAF 1.35 Ignition timing 4.5 to 7.5 Spec air mass 17 gh/hr Spec air adapt 1 kg/hr Injection time 3 ms Oil temperature 207.5F (stage 1 is on, idling on a hot day in my garage) Oxygen sensing 1-3 1.04 avg Oxygen sensing 4-6 1.03 avg Range2 Cyl 1-3 FRA .98 Range2 Cyl 4-6 FRA2 .98 Range1 Cyl 1-3 TRA -0.14 Range1 Cyl 4-6 TRA2 -0.14 02 ahead cat bank 1 fluctuating .09 to .77 02 ahead cat bank 2 fluctuating .09 to .77 02 behind cat bank 1 fluctuating .09 to .71 02 behind cat bank 2 fluctuating .09 to .71 Cam 1 deviation 3 degrees Cam 2 deviation 3 degrees (was 0 before I did the work) Rough Running Thresh 10.5 to 10.1 Rough running occasional spikes to 1.5 Segment A 1 Segment B 1 Sense wheel adapt .0007 Misfire detection 0 ISSUES Not to say that my work was perfect, because I had one weeping perimeter head bolt that wasn't torqued properly, I damaged one of the coolant hoses upon reinstall (new one ordered), broke the stupid plastic AOS coolant coupler near the oil fill tube, and the oil filter housing was not torqued to spec (next time I have some spare cash I'll probably do the spin on adapter, I'm so sick of that stupid plastic housing). Bank 1 was ticking badly upon first start, I thought for the worst that I had to drop it again, but thankfully it was just a loose/bad spark connection. I also improperly routed the throttle cable and as a result the DME was confused about the throttle plate angle at first startup, and the idle was stuck at 1200 RPM. Both variocam actuators actuated properly when activated with the PST2, and power through the range is consistent and smooth. The only nagging things I am left with which I am somewhat kicking myself is noticing after the fact that the crank pulley appears to have more run out than I would like to see. I will be measuring this run out soon and investigating the possibility of a flat 6 harmonic under-drive pulley or perhaps a new engine. That and I don't think I have the timing 100% spot on, but it is close. Bank 1 @ TDC Bank 2 @ TDC I am also nervous about a potentially poor decision to abstain from loctite usage on the variocam actuator, lifter carrier, and bearing saddles. When I removed those bolts they appeared to be "factory fresh" oily and brand new for lack of a better term. So I decided to just re-torque them to the specific tightening sequence and value. It wouldn't be the end of the world if someone told me I did that wrong and should really consider removing the cam covers again. At least this time I would be able to do the work faster and with much more confidence. DISCLAIMERS I AM NOT A MECHANIC. I am a computer professional, and have done most of the work on the cars or boats I've owned or used for the past 20 years. Some of the things I comment on in the photo gallery might be done "incorrectly" or be appalling to some who are in this trade. But, I have to say it got the job done and I'm not afraid to drive my car anymore. THANKS First and foremost rennlist and renntech are perhaps the best sources of useful information you can find, since there is not a ton of info about these engines elsewhere, unless you have the money to pay for one of Jake's seminars (which would be totally awesome) or are a Porsche employee. There are several great "DIY" engine drop websites as well, http://www.nutrod.com, http://986fix.com, http://www.oz951.com.../enginedrop.htm, http://101projects.com and Wayne's Boxster book is great as well for M96-01 info, especially for summarizing the cam removal DIY - however it is somewhat "incomplete" as it leaves a few very critical things out such as ensuring proper timing procedure and torque settings are carried out. In the end, nothing can replace the authentic work shop manual. I wouldn't even try to attempt any of this without access to that and a Durametric and/or PST2. Thanks to all the suppliers, Bob @ http://www.sunsetimports.com, Henry @ http://www.porscheoemparts.com, http://www.pelicanparts.com, http://www.rmeuropean.com, http://www.4wheelsautoparts.com, and http://autoatlanta.com And certainly THANK YOU PhillipJ, Dharn55, Loren, Don and crew at Riebes machine shop, Dr. Injector, and anyone else who provided any help including those that helped fund this project through the sale of some of my parts! Now it's time to take a drive!

If you just need to do one or two threads I think autozone has a helicoil kit with three inserts for one specific size for about $20 (as for size my guess without looking at PET is it is going to be M6 x 1.0, but you can take a bolt into a hardware store to confirm by threading a nut onto it first). I don't remember if that contains the lever required for the tap, but I do think it has the special tap and insertion tool. Be extremely careful drilling into your block though. If you don't have a jig you can fasten to make a perfectly level and straight cut, you need to be very accurate with a hand drill and certainly install a drill stop in the bit (you can wrap tape around the bit if you don't have a metal stop). Use a high speed steel bit and turn it at a very low speed. Be sure to vacuum and collect all of the shavings produced from the drilling and tapping operations. Metal shavings and engines don't agree with each other very well. Worst case if you mess up, you can go to a bigger size helicoil - ASSUMING there is enough meat to go bigger... Practice is a good idea especially if your first time is on an engine block. Find a piece of aluminum somewhere outside the car and get used to how to do it. You can also pay a shop to do it for you, depending on difficulty to access they may charge anywhere between $25 and $100 (or more) depending on how much tear down is required.

Hello! Have you checked the tire pressure? What is the condition of the tires? If they are new that is a fairly common. There are also some tires that track differently than others even once they are broken in. For example, "squirrelies". Alignment might also have a role to play. Have you checked to see if the car has any loose or worn suspension components?

Hello, I recently finished re-assembling my '99 M96-01 engine after having the heads out and it is installed and running really great. After reading through my notes one of the things that I had cause for concern but dismissed was the use of loctite on the variocam actuators, cam bearing saddles, and lifter carriers. Looking back on it now, even though I spent several days doing this perhaps I might have assembled too hastily and perhaps should have posted this thread in advance. When I pulled the bolts out of these locations they were shiny clean and in some cases even oily - without any loctite or micro-encapsulated residue that I could notice - the threads and heads of the bolts almost looked "brand new" for lack of a better term. I followed every torque specification from the work shop manual. Also followed any call out when micro encapsulated and/or stretched single use was called for. I researched as best as I could and the workshop manual, nor any forum, or parts list I could find called for micro encapsulated bolts or loctite for these pieces of hardware. Was this just a given that an experienced engine builder would do this and I need to pull the covers off again to apply loctite to the variocam actuator, bearing saddle, and lifter carrier bolts? Thanks in advance.

And as requested here is the "good" noise from bank 1. No tick tick tick from the plugs. And now the fabspeed muffler drone is more evident than the valves and lifters ticking away happily. And more good noises from bank 2.

Hey, that's what I said! :rolleyes: :D

Helicoil works great. You can also research time sert.

Try a little lube on the o-rings. Dielectric grease should work. Also on the 996 at least you can safely drop the engine a few inches to provide additional working room. Not sure if this is true about the 986/987.

I read a thread recently over on rennlist about an oil pump spring replacement solving this problem. A cheap and simple fix. Of course the sending unit and it's wiring can contribute. Not as easy to replace, but not that expensive. I've also read threads about partially seized, seized, or even incorrectly installed scavenge pumps causing oil pressure problems. Oil viscosity and temperature can also play a role. There is even the possibility of an oil passageway blockage somewhere. On my 99' 996 the pressure would be 5 bar at startup but then sometimes at hot idle .8 bar. The pressure would also fluctuate a little at idle. Not good. Too low and it shouldn't fluctuate. Cleaning the connectors on the sending unit did not help. I decided to go "agro on it" and at not a huge expense while my engine was out for a valve job, I replaced: Both oil scavange pumps (after tear down one of the pumps was not rotating as easily as the other one). Oil pump hex driver with LN model, piston, spring, gaskets, orings, washers Sending unit Changed oil to 5w50 (also a complete valve job that discovered 5 bad guides, along with 24 new seals) Now at a "warmish" stage 1 fans running at 210F idle, I'm at 1.2 bars without fluctuation. At startup 5 bars.

Sure thing Loren, I will post one probably tomorrow! Actually I have about 400 pictures to share as well, documenting the entire engine drop, tear down, rebuild, and reinstall. I'm working on the website and hope to post it soon. For now I have a couple more days of re-assembly, various suspension arms, bumper, wheels, etc.

Update: much to my delight, it was just a bad or loose spark plug or connection. After I removed and reinstalled the plugs on bank 1, it purrs like a vicious puma once again.

Hey all. I just finished getting the engine back in the 1999 996 C2 car and fired it up today. It seems to run great. No DTCs or CELs, very smooth. Except for one problem. The 1-3 head is very noisy, it seems like there is ticking from the entire bank, although perhaps more pronounced from #3. By comparison cylinder 4-6 head is very quiet, sounds normal. I haven't had a chance to attach the PST2 but any suggestions on what to look at first? I'm going to start by checking the spark plug torque, perhaps one is loose. I already pulled the exhaust header on bank 1 and found that one of the bolts wasn't torqued, so there was a little exhaust noise coming from there, but that is now resolved and the "lifter like" noise is still there. Here is a 10 second video of the "normal" 4-6 head. You can hear a faint ticking in the back ground which is actually the 1-3 head. Here is a video of the 1-3 head that sounds like all the lifters are misbehaving. Please give me some ideas here!!!! Thanks in advance

Thanks JFP. I found this spec in the WSM: However i interpreted that as being the intake riser to head. Perhaps that spec is for both the riser to the head and the plenum to the riser?

What is annoying is the section in the fuel manual that covers the intake distributor lists the bolt just like it does in other parts of the manual. But under install notes there is not a torque value listed, just blank. Perhaps I should just treat it like any other generic M6 fastener, and torque to 7.5 ft lbs. I don't want to damage the green o-rings. Just to clarify, here is a picture of the bolt I'm trying to find specs for. Thanks again.

Hello, I'm in the final assembly stages of my engine and can't seem to locate the torque setting anywhere. I found the intake riser specs, but not the manifold to the intake riser. 1999 996 C2 Thanks in advance!

I think the more expensive HF one will fit. The less expensive camera will not fit.

I haven't read about anyone that's tried it. The two parts are still available and one each specifically for those model years, so I am guessing there is a fitment issue (or perhaps redesign of cooling system) otherwise they probably would have just superseded the old part with the new for those model years. But for $100 less, it might be worth a shot and then return it if it doesn't work? 99610614756 99-00 (~$200 @ porscheoemparts.com) 99610615703 2001-2005 (~$90 @ porscheoemparts.com)