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Do you mean to say Flat 6 installed the IMS Guardian in your vehicle?

If you take your alternator to most good parts stores (napa/etc.) they have machines to bench test them per JFP's suggestion and will test them for free and give you a nice print out at the end. Also if you have a battery charger in these situations I like to remove the battery and charge it overnight.

Yes, the bleeder valve was designed specifically for that purpose. It isn't called "bleeder valve" for a different reason... :rolleyes: P/N 99610634702 BLEEDER VALVE If you think you have air in the system, it is recommended to have the coolant drained and refilled using a vacuum system, such as the Uview Airlift 55000.

If you are suspecting something was put into the gas that clogged an injector, pull the injectors and have them bench tested. They will be able to tell if they are clogged/bad/etc. Although probably not be able to tell if there was something put into the gas - just assess the state of the injectors and clean/repair them if they are out of spec. There is a service in Sacramento called Dr. Injector.

Sounds like it could be a slipped sleeve/ d-chunk failure or perhaps just an intermix in the head that led to further problems since it went by unaddressed. "Previously unseen cylinder failure. It is a known fact that the casting plant that made the blocks for Porsche was unable to keep up with demand and also experienced casting problems, turned to a 3rd party with a freeze-cast MMC (metal matrix composite) liner which was cast into the block. Sleeve had a very small lip at the head end to keep it from moving. On this cylinder, the lip broke, allowing the sleeve to intrude into the crankcase, leading to a D-chunk failure coupled with a delamination of the cast in liner from the block." From http://www.flat6innovations.com/engine-failures-illustrated

Gentlemen! :thankyou: greatly for the accurate replies as always. I tested the oil cooler and it is good. SO I am thinking this oil was left over somehow from the head R&R. Anyways I will keep an eye on this area in the future - fortunately it is on the side which is easy to see near the transmission bell housing. The engine is back in the car AGAIN, after the second drop to R&R a failed variocam solenoid. The engine is running FANTASTIC. Had it out today for a very hard drive, and it was wonderful. Thanks again.

My advice is the following. I am of the opinion that complete engine meltdown is rare. There are a TON of Porsche's still on the road with their original bearing driving today without any problem or concern or knowledge of IMS failure. Yes there are plenty of threads about failure on the Internet, and there is an equal amount of nervous people reading them - it is human nature to focus on stuff that is bad, while there aren't any solid statistics about failure rates/etc. ANYWAYS. DRIVE THE CAR and don't worry about it. :cheers:

Wow, that would be some really bad gas. Perhaps someone poured cement or paint into the tank. Do you have any enemies? Or perhaps a really bad intake leak and a lot of material going in the intake manifold and wreaking havoc upon the cylinders/pistons/rings (perhaps intake was not attached properly?) . Agree with Loren though, without complete dis-assembly/pics/codes it's tough to say for certain.

I would keep pestering the dealer. I've heard of a few cases like this where Porsche will meet in the middle with repair costs and perhaps in some rare cases cover them.

Normal. Yes, it goes up on it's own when hot, then goes back down once cooled. To lock it in place you can lift the clip up to force bleeding even on a cold vehicle.

If anyone has been following my engine's saga... I've put about 300 miles on the car since the repairs. The car is performing beautifully aside from a few lingering issues. After a recent head R&R I accidentally damaged my bank 1 variocam solenoid wire. I've sourced a solenoid and will be replacing it. The solenoid fails the ohm test (.01 on the multimeter, and can't be activated manually with 12V+) whereas the bank 2 solenoid tests fine at 13+ ohms and can be activated with the PST2. I guess there is some formula for Porsche engines, depending on how many things you need to replace dictates whether you drop the engine or not. I'm also replacing a crank pulley (warped) and FMS (slight leak). Anyways after dropping the engine last weekend I noticed the oil cooler has a little tiny bit of oil in between the ribs in the middle of the cooler - a few grams - but certainly noticeable. I was meticulous in cleaning it when I dropped the engine 300 miles ago and am 100% certain this is fresh oil seeping out of it or from some other location (I can't surmise where else it would come from). Anyone ever notice this before? Should I just not worry about this and wait until it fails or spend the $200 or so on a new one. I've read from JFP that the oil cooler can be a source of intermix and I certainly don't want to have to clean up that mess... anyhow advice or opinions would be appreciated!

They aren't THAT much wider anyhow... puts some spacers on your wheels and no one will notice. :-) Is that a turbo? I've been asked that question a few times... LOL.

Just curious JFP, how many cars have you seen or read about that have intermix due to a failed oil cooler? TIA!

If you are looking for cheap tires the Falken's are also pretty good, had them on my sport techno's before going with Bstone RE050A's.

The rotors should have the min thickness stamped on them. I always turn rotors, if they are too far gone replace them. The result of this has been pretty much perfect brakes on every car I've worked on. Don't go with the cheapest pads and rotors. This is one area where you really do get what you pay for.

Try member Pac996 in Aiea, HI on http://forums.rennlist.com

Yep, selling in CA requires passing a SMOG check... (sellers responsibility).

This sounds like a temporary condition to me, perhaps if you reset the flashcounter or restart the entire process the counter goes away. Just a guess because I've flashed one of my DME's about 4 times with both Softronic and PST2. There is a limit to the number of times you can flash NVRAM, but it's probably in the 1000's or 10,000's of times before the memory becomes unreliable. I understand this is especially true with the early 5.2.2 DMEs (in fact the original 5.2.2 P/N would go bad after the first flash). Just some thoughts.

+1 to JFP's comment earlier. My guess is a gummed up check valve or plumbing... you should have seen the state of my system after 12 years and 75k miles. I'm not an expert on this but after doing a lot of reading I'm not sure there is a negative side to not fixing it other than eventually that system will throw a CEL and you'll have to fix it to pass smog.

If you have 4/5 ready and no CEL or pending codes, then YES you should be able to pass California SMOG based on what others have posted here. I wouldn't try to trick "the SMOG system" though, if you cleared the CEL and haven't driven the car enough, it might trigger on your way to the SMOG shop based on your SAI system readiness (or might be a pending code that their computer will pick up). Then again, it might not - it's sorta your gamble - and some shops offer a free or cheap retest if yours fails. That being said, you should address the issue regardless of the SMOG check. The screen cap Loren posted is of a PST2 Porsche computer showing the readiness checks. On the top screen cap that's what it looks like if you have all 5 readiness checks GOOD.

In California you can only have 2 monitors in "not ready" in order to pass. So if you have 5 readiness monitors, 3 must be good. Also you can't have a check engine light on. If the codes you have do not set the check engine light, and you have enough readiness indicators then it is possible you can pass a smog test. Some of the stored codes might cause a fail though... That being said, per the previous suggestions - post the DTC's (trouble codes) you read from Durametric and someone can help you determine what is wrong. Since it sounds like your SAI system has a problem it is possible you won't be able to get enough of the readiness monitors to go green. "Start engine, idle cold for approx 2 min, 10 sec's." This is the method you can use to start the SAI system routine. Starting the car cold will trigger the SAI pump to inject the necessary oxygen into the exhaust until it reaches the appropriate temperature and then it can shut off. There's nothing you have to do for that to work ordinarily, it just happens on every cold start whether you want to or not (on a properly functioning system). What Durametric is probably telling you is that your SAI system probably has a fault if it keeps asking you to do that test over and over. I believe Loren posted a screen cap yesterday of those monitors, and there is also a great thread here by Tool Pants about his ongoing saga to pass SMOG. Edit: I also suggest taking a few short drives if you've recently cleared codes to make sure they don't come back before you take it to get smogged. I can't remember if you can do this with a Durametric, but at least with a PST2 you can do "short tests" which allow you to run the OBD readiness checks without driving the car - say for example if some of them are not set - which might be useful if you've recently completed repairs or disconnected your battery.

Never heard of this... other modules perhaps.

That could be ORVR and your P/N for the other line would be 996 201 361 03 So best guess hard line 99611031555. Soft line 99620136103. Might have to submit to the dealer on this one, at least to ID the part (can you see any P/N on the hose or tube?).

Those are for the fuel rails. I'm just stumped as to why yours is looped back on itself. Did you do that by mistake or was it like that originally? I think I remember reading that the return line was modified in later cars (perhaps removed?), and that might explain why it loops back on itself. Not sure about that though, just something in the back of my brain. In any case the hard line might be 99611031555. The other one... might be 996 201 355 02. Let's see if someone might be able to positive ID that thing before you place any orders. If I am right, those are both very long tubes BTW, it will be a major pain in the a** to replace, especially with engine in car. Perhaps you might be able to do a splice job, but it will be tough if it is fuel since you don't want to be driving a car around with a fuel leak.

Right on. Great news!!!! Enjoy the SC! :thumbup: