logray

Removing the carpet is a pain in the ***. I've done it to add some dynamat. You would think it would be as easy as removing the seats and carpet. But you also have to remove hardware, center console, arm rest, frame, shift levers, trim, wiring, etc. etc. etc. If you are really quick perhaps 2-3 hours out and 2-3 hours back in. So I don't think the 1100 is unreasonable if the service included other items. Keep in mind when I say "reasonable"some Porsche Dealers have been known to charge $200-400 for an oil change. Also most cars have drainage tubes in them. Without them your car would get a lot wetter than it would without.

Thanks for sharing. And just curious did you have the engine removed for major work or was it just to replace some seals/etc. For example replacing the RMS seal can be done without removing the engine.

:unsure: I wouldn't risk just putting on a new pulley if you suspect the shaft is damaged. If you want to just put on a new pulley I would recommend taking it to an alternator rebuild shop or other automotive shop who can properly bench test the alternator to make sure it is working as it should. Assuming the shaft is not damaged and you can just bolt on a new one, the pulley and hardware would probably cost in the range of $75 USD ish. The other option is a new or rebuilt alternator. You can get them in the states for about $300-400 USD depending on what type of transmission/year you have. I suspect you'll also need a new serpentine belt. And a bit of good luck that the engine didn't overheat while you drove the car for 5 miles without an accessory belt (driving the water pump).

Agree with SA321, but be prepared for bugs, in addition to not legally conforming with Porsche's copyrights.

Clarifying Loren's post. S/N is on the drivers front side of the engine, near the rear of the bottom of the oil pan. You might need to scrub the plate off with a wire brush and some degreaser (wd40 for example) to see it clearly.

Looking at the Porsche catalog, I see a couple different options for pistons Does anyone have the specifications for their use (or for the pistons themselves) somewhere? I see they give us weights in grams, but I don't see any info about their application - such as acceptable cylinder clearances, etc. 996 103 051 18 piston tolerance range X -01 6 number plate - 544 -547 G 996 103 051 19 piston tolerance range X -01 6 number plate + 547 -550 G Thanks!

Certainly do not lug the engine. It like higher revs. If you read the owners manual it stipulates the minimum and maximum downshift and upshift RPMs and speeds. These cars are designed to go forward fast and quickly.

You might want to search for Uview Airlift 55000.

Nice work. Can you post a pic of #1? #2 you probably have an intake leak if the idle is wandering, or your idle air control valve still needs more cleaning.

I agree with judgejon if you drive a C4, from what I've read - and specifically this problem too. Perhaps check tire pressures - maybe they can cause strangeness with the ABS system in a C4. If you have a C2 it shouldn't matter as much, as I've run different tires front/back without this problem and would agree to have a look at the ABS sensors (or check he sensors either way).

I have looked at the LiFePo4 batteries but only for a golf car / deep cycle. I didn't research them for their starting properties.. If you want a lightweight battery for starting, try an optima. There are others as well. Race cars also re-locate the battery to help lower the center of gravity.

Your alarm module sounds pretty angry. But the statement I quoted above makes me start to wonder if this is just another faulty ignition switch...???

Certainly not. It is a battery just like any other car battery. Just observe the manual and battery instructions to ensure you don't melt something... but I've safely used dumb chargers before on all types of batteries. I prefer the smart ones though....

If the larger charger is "smart" i.e. something that has a computer chip and monitors the voltage and regulates it once it has reached the appropriate values, then it should be fine to leave it on indefinitely (disconnect leads from car or remove battery to be safe). If it is a "dumb" charger, like the kind on wheels that you roll around and move a dial to 50 amps, DO NOT leave that connected to the battery or your house might burn down. That being said, if you know how to use that, it can also appropriately charge a completely dead battery, and much faster and more efficiently than a battery maintainer. A maintainer might not even be able to sufficiently charge a completely dead battery.

Nice work thanks for sharing the results... hope this fixed the problem.

Some people use Stabil additive if the gas sits for a long time, combats ethanol problems and makes the fuel fresh longer. Safe for unleaded engines too.

You might want to have a look at Boxster technical service bulletin 1740 (8/97), this might help you, I'm not sure. It talks about extra o-rings required depending on what type of oil cooler you have. Additionally, here is a picture of the adapter plate P/N 99610712900. The adapter plate AND oil cooler requires the following o-rings (twice the number than if you don't have the adapter plate). 99970740940 qty 2 99970738940 qty 4 [AND depending on TSB 1740, qty 2 of 99970734440 in addition to the above] 99970719340 qty 4 (there may be a few extra orings you don't need there, but since they are cheap, better to have what you need than wait on more orders). Newer engines do no need the adapter plate as you've pointed out in your picture, rather the oil coolers sit right on the block, the recesses for the o-rings are machined into the block surface. The original oil cooler part for the 1997 engine is 99610702505. Porsche does not sell this anymore, instead they offer a replacement which is P/N 99610702507. This new part, 99610702507 does not require an adapter plate for newer engines. For older engines, the new cooler might not fit without the adapter plate. The bottom of the new oil cooler looks like this: Not having seen a 97 Boxster for myself, I can't tell you this for certain. However, what I would guess (just a guess since I haven't seen it for myself) is that the o-ring resting in the bottom of the adapter plate recess fits over the area I circled in red below, and that oring seals that area of the block (and nothing needs to recess into the block as it does with the older cooler). After all, the bottom of the new oil cooler is flat, so the recesses for the o-rings would logically be in the adapter plate (as shown by the picture of the plate above). That being said, the new supersceded oil cooler part 99610702507 shows as a direct fit for M96.20 (1997-1999 model year engines), and I don't see any other information about the requirement for an adapter plate, but I agree with you that I don't see how it would work without some sort of adapter.

Good news and good work Andrew.

Which is why when using the newer cooler one will need the adapter plate, #35 and P/N 99610712900 MSRP $157.28 in the picture below.

Just a few words of advice, most of the items on the maint checklists are easily DIY, if you've ever changed oil or a filter before on a car, this car is no different... lots of money to be saved versus having a dealer perform a $400 oil change when oil might cost you only $50 at a parts store.

Once the pressure increases in the cooling system, the bleeder valve opens all on it's own. By design. Then it closes again once it cools down. The metal latch is designed so you can bleed a cold system.

You can connect the slack tube manometer into cylinder 1 using a spark tube adapter (like a compression tester). You slowly rotate the crank as it nears TDC, the level of the oil will rise. At that precise moment you mark the degree wheel or case/pulley. You rotate past TDC and at the moment the fluid begins to retract, you mark the degree wheel or case/pulley. You mark the halfway point in between those, and that is your true TDC. I think there are a couple you tubes on the subject and here is a website describing that process. http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/tdc.html The dial indicator was MUCH more accurate though (hundredths of an inch), with a plunger extension resting on the top of the piston head repeat the above test, the halfway point is TDC. In my engines situation, true TDC was actually just a hair past the TDC mark, so much so that the TDC lock pin in the case boss does not go in.

I would stick with the unleaded stuff. Exhaust aside, I would be most concerned about possible valve and spark plug damage from lead deposits over time (if you use it regularly). Passing emissions might also be a concern if you've removed your O2 sensors and cat converters. I'm not sure if it is legal (or rather prohibited). You might be better off looking for 100 octane unleaded fuel, which is available at some consumer pumps. I'm not sure you are going to get what you are looking for paying the extra money per gallon versus 91 or 93 octane.

I for one would start with replacing the cracked coils. You could swap the coils from cylinders 4-6 over to 1-3 and see if the misfires follow. It is possible that the coils on the 4-6 side have seen more moisture or some of them are on their way out. Here is the coil pack diagnosis flow chart if you want to diagnose the coil packs using multimeter/etc.. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/39226-any-reason-to-replace-coils-if-not-cracked/page__view__findpost__p__207346