logray

The roll bar should not move around freely. I would double check your bushes, bolts, and fasteners. Did you use genuine replacement parts or aftermarket? New tires can make the car feel squirrely for the first few hundred miles. Different road surfaces can also produce this feel (the rear tires are very wide). You can also have the alignment checked, perhaps something is way out of whack.

It wouldn't hurt to throw it on the alignment rack, but you could also just retorque those fasteners properly (I would guess they were improperly torqued), then test drive the car. If it tracks straight then I don't see why you would need to align it. Any shop can align it and get it reasonably well, but I've found that shops who know Porsches can typically do a MUCH better job.

Any code that produces a CEL/MIL will not pass, in fact they won't even bother smogging it until the CEL is corrected. Most places won't charge you if this is the case (or at least dont bother bringing in the car if there is a CEL). I'm not 100% but I believe with a pending code and no light, you can still pass SMOG, assuming all of the other OBD readiness and sniff tests pass. And you cant just clear the light because then that resets the readiness, which requires more driving which will likely reset the light unless the problem has been fixed.

If you have clunking and rattling noises I have a feeling it is going to be apparent when you are inspecting it.

The third looks interesting to me based on km and price, and also 1999 is a good year for these cars, yes they have dual row IMS (strongest of any 986/7 or 996/7). I would rather have a car with 50k miles as opposed to nearly 100k. Certainly have a PPI done before you buy anything.

Really difficult to say from your description and no codes, but it could be any of the things I already mentioned. It could also be the rpm signal is being lost (crank position sensor), gears slipping, torque converter slipping, or something else or a combination of these issues.

Thanks for not pouring in a can of stop leak and refilling with dex-cool. ;)

At least on an older 996, it makes it much easier to access the relays in the footwell if you remove the large piece of trim that covers the fuse box and kick area. It is not that hard to remove after you take out the 4 screws under the fuse panel cover. Also, having removed the fuse/relay holder (again on my older model), I can tell you it was not designed to "swing down" for easy access... so don't be tempted to break something by yanking on it. You really do need to wedge yourself up in that area to get better access to it. I'm 6' tall and am able to get my head right where the pedals are, then reach up with one or two arms and access any of the relays.

You might try something like this http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-pc-screw-out-174-damaged-screw/p-00952154000P?PDP_REDIRECT=false&s_tnt=39869:4:0 Or anything you can jamb into the stripped bolt and get enough leverage to extract it. Replacement screw part numbers (need qty 2): 99907318302

If you're working with the car on the ground or stands, put a thick towel over the door sill and lay flat on the door sill with your head in the footwell. Get a good bright light and you will be able to access/see all of the relays.

One trick to the battery drain problem and inexpensive units is to simply swap pins 1 (switched) & 16 (unswitched) on the OBD2 connector. The pins slide right out when you take the lock off.

Its a great bit of kit. Makes the steering heavy, but the tradeoff in handling is worth it, imo. Especially if you have upgrade dampers.

bar10dah did you ever get your car sorted out?

If it were me, and you suspect the alternator/regulator. I would simply remove the alternator, battery, and starter. Take them all to a parts store or shop. In the USA, most parts stores bench test these using a sophisticated machine for free, and give you a detailed report on each item. I'm not sure if they offer this in Belgium but I can't imagine it would cost very much to have these parts load tested on a bench.

I would pay for a PPI or negotiate price contingent upon clean PPI. Good maintenance records would solidify the deal. So few miles driven in a year is generally not a plus with these cars. The 1999 model year is a good year for the IMSB and also good for head castings, since this year has the strongest dual row bearing of all 996 and 997 model years (as well as some 2000 and very few 2001 models) until the DFI design, and also far fewer intermix occurrence due to head cracks. The 1999 is also very "analog" to drive, a true drivers car in most situations without many drivers aid options. Very raw and exhilarating.

Contributing members of renntech.org can download the 2003 manual here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/files/file/601-my03-carrera-996-owners-manual/ The 1999 is similar in many respects as the 2003, but not exactly the same. The 1999 is a bit more "analog" and engine capacities are different (oil/power/etc.) among other differences. Sunset or Suncoast Porsche used to be a good source for inexpensive manuals, but I don't believe so any more. Ebay is probably your best bet if you want a hard copy.

Without instructor, of course.... :)

Or take out the spare wheel and passenger seat. ;)

It might sound good and be loud but even with an ecu flash dont expect huge or even modest power gains. This is from someone who spent over $6k on intake/exhaust/ecu flash on an N/A car. Now if you had a 911 turbo, totally different story.

Having been there done that, JFPs advice to remain stock are words of wisdom.

Great work. Glad to hear it is running well.

There is a good AOS replacement DIY located here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/238-air-oil-separator-replacement-aos The AOS itself can crack, or the hoses can come loose or split or break causing an oil or coolant leak in that area. It is pretty much impossible to replace the AOS without removing the intake plenum from the top or removing the engine. Once you go to those lengths to access it, you might as well replace it, and the hoses, since they are relatively inexpensive compared with the task of just getting to it. Don't drop anything into the intake (put tape over the intake holes). Replace the hose clamps with high grade stainless worm style clamps. Consider paying a shop to do the work if it looks too complicated.

Unlike later model year cars, the 99's lids are 100% cable operated. However, the locks are locked because of the dead battery situation. First try just using your key, put it into the lock on the door, then lock and unlock the door several times (door closed, not in the car). Then open the door and try the levers (only one lever at a time). If that doesn't work, from that link RFM provided here is what you need to do: "Applicable to MY1997 thru MY2000 (compliments of Joe King):To open the front trunk when the battery is dead you can use the emergency release cable which can be accessed with a few tools, use the battery procedure outlined in Porsche Technical Bulletin 1/96 5510 (http://www.renntech.org/forums/files/getdownload/388-401boxster-front-and-rear-hood-release-inoperativepdf/) (contributing members only) or use my method which requires a small screwdriver and flashlight. It allows you to open the front hood lid in about 10 seconds once you learn the trick. My procedure is outlined below:1. Both trunk levers are cable operated. When the alarm is set, a solenoid latches the two trunk levers. If the battery dies while the alarm is set, it is necessary to open the door with the key. Opening the door with the key does not unlatch the trunk levers since there is no power to operate the solenoid.2. To learn how to unlatch the trunk levers, examine under the front trunk lever by looking through the slot between the two trunk levers with a flashlight. Look for the tab on the underside of the front trunk lever. Directly below the tab is a small U shaped cutout. When the lever is pulled up, the tab drops into the small U shaped cutout. When the alarm is set, a small white plate slides over the small U shaped cutout from the center of the car towards the outside of the car. This prevents you from pulling up the lever because the tab cannot pivot down into the small U shaped cutout.3. To unlatch the front trunk lever, use a very thin shaft straight slot screwdriver (I used an Xcelite R3323 which has a very thin 3"shaft). Slide the screwdriver between the two trunk levers and insert it between the solenoid plate and outside rear edge of the U shaped cutout and slid the plate toward the center of the car and pull up on the front trunk lever.To test this procedure (without waiting for a dead battery):1. With the drivers door open, move the black door latch to the closed position, the second click. This is done by using a screwdriver to move the black lever portion of the door latch toward the outside of the door until you hear a distinct click followed by a second distinct click. IMPORTANT: At this point do not slam the door shut since the door latch is in the latched position and may be damaged when making contact with the door jab. Step 4 explains how to reset the door latch.2. Lock the car using the remote or key. The alarm will be set and the trunk levers latched. Don't sit in the car because the alarm is set.3. At this point you can use the above procedure to open the front trunk. The alarm may sound when you pull up on the lever since you are opening the trunk. This is determined by the front trunk switch adjustment.4. IMPORTANT: After opening the front trunk using this test procedure you must unlock the car using the remote or key followed by pulling up on the door handle to unlatch the door latch. "

Although... the 1999 dual row IMS is just as strong as the larger single row that came in the 2005 reman, but now that can't be retrofitted without dismantling the engine. In other words, splitting the case.

I would fill to 3/4 between min and max, 1/4 is low, especially considering the work you've done. I would bleed the brakes, then the slave cylinder. I am glad I am correct.