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logray

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Everything posted by logray

  1. stage 1 for A/C unless certain conditions apply...
  2. Good decision to have it checked out!
  3. I wouldn't freak out about it. It could be silicone and the metal could just be normal wear. If it were me I would just clean it up (and i've been there before seeing more debris), I would just keep an eye on it. Perhaps change the filter in a 100 miles or so and cut it apart. You can change the filter without changing or draining the oil.
  4. The oil flows from the oil sump/pump into the outside of the filter to the inside. Next stop is the oil cooler and then off to the various engine pieces.
  5. I'll check my Durametric next time I have it on there but I seem to remember the option to activate stage 2 fans in there. Another way to manually activate the stage two fans is just to remove your stage 1 fan relays. The stage 2 fans will click on and off every few minutes IIRC. Of course, don't run the car like this, but just use this if you want to test that your fans are working.
  6. With those types of compression numbers on the remaining cylinders you are going to have great power, despite having one cylinder that is 19% off from the other healthy cylinders. The limit for healthy typically being less than 10-15 psi of difference between cylinders. As mentioned previously a compression test with a little oil put into the cylinder, if by doing that the compression test shows improvement you could be looking at a problem with the piston rings in that cylinder, or the cylinder itself (for example scoring or oval/warped). Smell of fuel could be related to the work you just did on the fuel system? These cars have a lot of "normal smells". Sometimes one is a fuel smell on cold startup, especially if the car is just idling and hadn't been driven hard.
  7. Hello! Could be oil vapor coming from the AOS tube going into the plenum behind the throttle body. That tube has an o-ring, but it wouldn't be a lot of oil leaking unless your air oil separator is bad.. Could be a leak in the oil fill tube itself, as they are prone to such leaks and cracking as they get old. Best thing is to clean the surrounding area, then keep an eye out where the leak originates from. Hope this helps.
  8. Indeed... with collateral damage you could undoubtedly be looking up to the cost of a replacement engine, or more! For example damage to hoses, further engine damage, etc. So it's definitely a gamble. Your odds are probably better in Vegas. :)
  9. I wonder if this is because of a door microswitch or ignition switch. Try a search on both of those topics ...
  10. The ECU does need a few drive cycles to "re-learn" after the battery was disconnected. However, I'm not sure that would account for a 20% difference. I'm also not sure someone could feel that big of a difference just from having the DME reset. Was the engine removed or parts removed from it while painting?
  11. DIY intermix repair anywhere in the $2-3k range, assuming just the heads are cracked and no other collateral damage.
  12. Not a bad gamble if you are a very handy shade-tree and it is priced a a roller But it is a gamble... If it's not a cracked head you are certainly looking at a loss.
  13. I remember reading there might be a VW or Audi part that is a direct replacement, might have been from Orient Express.
  14. If you mean a rocker switch "blank" in the center console surround, just pry the "fingers" on the back of the switch inwards. Or use a flat head screwdriver and pry from the bottom in towards the middle of the switch blank. It will pry/pop right out. You can even do it by hand.
  15. IMHO, Durametric is priced below what it should be. Having owned a PST2, it is a tremendous tool for the money. Think of the savings on just a a couple CEL clearings alone vs. going to the dealer (Porsche tax).
  16. Also have a look at the images in the first post in the following thread... http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/557016-how-variocam-and-variocamplus-works-a-primer.html
  17. The convertible soft top MSRP is $2114.21.
  18. Sometimes these thing go hand in hand, but if you somehow damage the threads during extraction you might also want to have a look at helicoil and timesert.
  19. The last time I checked air pumps were more in the $1000-$1500 USD range. Nice work isolating the problem. You can get a used one from a breaker, with a limited warranty for $300 USD. http://dcauto.gotdns.com/search/index?target=99660510400&searcher=&commit=Search
  20. Email sunset Porsche with a description of what you need and they can sell it to you... http://www.renntech.org/forums/spoffers/sunset/
  21. If there is still enough of the bolt head to grab onto, try craftsman bolt out. Also spray liberally with pb blaster. In a bind, a dremel with tungsten carbide bit on slow speed will go through anything.
  22. A leak down test is performed with a 10 gallon or larger air compressor. The engine should be warm, the intake blocked open, and all spark plugs removed. Open the oil filler cap. The engine set to TDC and locked with the pin (to prevent from turning over). Start with cylinder 1. Connect the leak down meter between the air compressor and cylinder. The leak down meter has two air gauges. The first gauge is the input gauge, which should be provided 100psi. The second gauge reads the percentage loss. For example, if the second gauge reads 90psi, there is 10% leakage. Listen by ear for where the air is leaking, place a piece of paper over, or blow smoke around the exhaust, intake, and oil filler tube. Depending on where the air is leaking will tell you where the problem is. For example if the air is leaking at the exhaust, then the exhaust valves could be a problem, leaking through the throttle body, intake valves. Oil filler tube (through the crankcase), piston rings. Repeat the test for the remaining cylinders in the firing order, ensuring the cylinder you are testing is at TDC (no valves open). To do this you will have to rotate the crankshaft and lock it at the proper position. Record the results. Depending on how much leakage there is will also tell you approximate condition of the engine. "No engine will have perfect sealing with zero percentage loss. Five to 10 percent loss indicates an engine in great to good running order. An engine between 10 and 20 percent can still run okay, but it’ll be time to keep an eye (or ear) on things. Above 20 percent loss and it may be time for a teardown and rebuild. Thirty percent? Major problems. The percent of leakage should also be consistent across the cylinders. Any great differences indicate a problem in that cylinder." However with compression numbers that you are providing, my guess is there is very little leakdown. However it might provide you with an indication of what the problem with #5 is. More information here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leak-down_tester http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/DIY/Engine_Leakdown_Test.aspx
  23. Thanks! I haven't had time to compare yet but will within the next few days... That being said, the part number on my cable is exactly equivalent to the Porsche P/N (interchangeable). I'll dig up the thread later. In addition, I've verified pin for pin the cable is exactly the same with another person who owns (several) PST2's.
  24. Yep I've had a good experience with them too... prompt shipping and good price. I wonder if they lost the "good help".
  25. Third party software vendor... one of the ECU tuners ...
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