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logray

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Everything posted by logray

  1. logray
    White is a good choice .
  2. logray
    You cant miss it. Says m535 or something. 4 bolts and seat comes right out.
  3. logray
    Immobilizer is under drivers seat. You must change that too. Donor immob/dme/pill in key must all match. Wiring harnesses must match (otherwise you need to rewire, but prob better option to get another donor set)... (green box behind key not so important IIRC) If all the connectors match, I think you should be OK.. IIRC 2001 and 2002 boxster should be compatible both use DME 7.2. boxster didn't change DMEs to 7.8 until 2003 (not sure about immobilizer, but I think that should be oK too)
  4. logray
    So you installed from the donor car... a.) ignition assembly b.) use donor car key (with it's pill) c.) immobilizer (under seat) d.) DME (ecu) If you do all of those things and all the pinouts match then there must have been something wrong with previous car's setup or the donor set is not matched
  5. logray
    I'm having a hard time finding info, but I do remember reading some 996's had to have their fender reworked, and that some (including my own experience) indicates that very early model year 996 cars did not need reworking when you aren't running spacers. It might be 2000 year models and later, or it might be just 2001 that needs it. The MFG note for 11x18's with RO 63 and 295 x 30x18 tires is... "The fender lip andrear spoiler,ifnecessary,must be reworked onvehicles up to andincluding model year 2001." With this combo I am basically "at the limit" with GT3 ROW suspension specs, with no rubbing or bottom out issues. My fender did not need to be reworked. You could run 285x30x18 on the 11x18s, the rim might appear to stick out slightly, but that would probably cover you regarding rubbing issues. If you aren't lowered I wouldn't worry about it. To give you a sense of what that looks like (again GT3 ROW/PSS10/very lowered):
  6. logray
    I would tell them that is ridiculous. go to an indie... 4-6 hours for an AOS from the top through the engine bay. Dropping the engine should be closer to... 4 hours engine out, 4 hours engine in + parts + while you're in there stuff.
  7. logray
    Both happen actually... 1 qt / 1400 is not abnormal. I'm at 1qt per 2000 miles with new rings, and I probably could have done better with the breakin. I might redo the rings at some point.
  8. logray
    Crankcase vacuum is normally far less than intake vacuum. I suppose perhaps in the case of a gross intake leak, where vacuum is greatly reduced perhaps the AOS cant do it's job as well??? But then you would notice the engine running really very poorly. In any case, there is a very definitive test for the AOS... (or at least crankcase vacuum) and here it is: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/255-an-inexpensive-way-to-test-for-a-bad-aos/
  9. logray
    Your AOS is probably OK.
  10. logray
    Good info above. Also to note, the bottom bracket also allows routing/fixing of various hoses (fuel/coolant) that cross over the engine if it was a 3.4L or 3.6L from a 996.
  11. logray
    Nope, very straightforward.
  12. logray
    If it is truly warped, then I would clean surfaces using acetone/etc. then use some RTV very sparingly, then reinstall and let it cure overnight before refilling. If there is a slight burr/casting artifact you could very very very lightly sand the surfaces using a sanding block and very light grit sandpaper. And you are certain you are using the correct torque values? The new gaskets and mating surfaces must be totally clean.
  13. logray
    Good information above. +1 The Napa near me has a large attached machine shop, and is quite large with lots of machines, computers, and other sophisticated equipment. The machine they've used to test my alternator/starter/battery provides a lengthy 1-2 page report per item and is computer operated. It spins the accessories at various speeds and reports on parameters and offered a lot more than just pass/fail. There are hand held units as well which can be less sophisticated. Having the parts in car doing a load test can also simulate real world conditions (i.e. heat).
  14. logray
    Just to clarify the "harness" the previous poster is speaking of. It is not the "main engine harness" which costs many thousands of dollars. It is the primary battery wire that runs from the alternator to the starter to the main jump point in the engine. There are a couple issues with this cable and it has been revised by Porsche a few times. The first issue is the point where it connects at the starter can become corroded and break. The second issue issue was the cable gauge was insufficient. Of course, heat soak can compound the problems with an under-performing component. There are many threads about that as well, here is one for example: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/31797-strange-low-voltage-problems This topic comes up very often on this forum (in fact just in the past week), and there are many threads about this as well, but you can also have the alternator load tested (a voltage test is less helpful in most situations). You can do pseudo load tests with the alternator in car, but a better way is to remove the alternator and starter (which is really not that difficult to do) and take them to a parts store such as Napa. They have expensive load testing machines that can give you a lengthy print out of each item (including batteries) and their estimated useful life remaining/pass/fail/ability to perform/etc. Most parts stores will provide this service for free.
  15. logray
    On early cars 996 (1999) I've read/heard that there is more room in the back than later models. On my 1999 car I run 18x11's in the back, and they fit 100% perfect with no rubbing issues, and I'm at GT3 ROW specs (very lowered/very aggressive stance). For later cars, there are TSBs about reworking the rear fenders if you want to run wider wheels. On a narrow body car, pretty much every thread I've read about using 19"s includes "rubbing and scraping", especially when lowered, so I wouldn't advise that.
  16. logray
    It is not possible to calibrate this in the DME. The speed is typically registered as 4-5MPH faster due to the German "speedometer advance" law. This law prohibits manufacturers from reporting speeds that are ever lower than the actual speed. Also on most NA narrow body cars, I don't recommend 19" rims if you've lowered the car due to bottom/out rub issues.
  17. logray
    Right behind the wheel.
  18. logray
    Or connect an oscope and look for the right curves.
  19. logray
    Broken or weak motor/trans mounts can contribute as well. If you drive it hard/on a track semi solid mounts may help. Also damper control contributes... I notice the effect you describe more when my PSS10's are on #1 versus when they cranked all the way up to 10 (an 11 setting would be good).
  20. logray
    Please don't use stop leak, not good for the engine and results are probably not what you would expect.
  21. logray
    I have one of the mower axel units, really like it because when I don't "need it" it stores nicely in the boot.
  22. logray
    Cool. Glad its fixed.
  23. logray
    It depends on which kind of stereo you have, but here are few good threads (I searched renntech.org for radio removal): http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/39335-radio-removal/ http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/22299-removeinstall-hep-for-crcdr-220-stereo-please/ http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/12301-radio-removal/
  24. logray
    It could also be oil leaking from above. On bank 1 you have the AOS above the scavenge pump. On bank 2 you have AOS/case vent above the scavenge pump. Other stuff can leak too, or even pool on top of engine and seep down.
  25. logray
    If suspension work was performed, then more than likely that's when something wasn't done correctly. I would find it hard to believe both would fail at the same time unless something wasn't done right...
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