logray

Glad to hear it had a happy ending. Yes, the location and type of cable has been reported to be different depending on car and model year. I am guessing once the battery was disconnected / reconnected you were able to use the remote fob?

Nice work and you saved yourself some serious money doing it yourself!!! That slave cylinder can be a pain in the ***.

If cleaning the contacts doesn't work. It's a very easy repair, part number 99660611600 for $110 at a place like sunset Porsche. After you remove the engine cover, it's 1 bolt and 1 wire harness to disconnect right on the throttle body. #4 in the parts diagram below: http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/986-97-04/107-00.php

I PM'ed you pictures of the release cable on my car. I've heard the exact location can vary on different cars, which is why it's important to get a visual on it before you pull on it. If you are unfamiliar with it's location, this is the reason why you would want to remove the wheel liner. As stated above, you don't want to yank on the wrong cable, for example if you damage a wiring harness for the lights it could cost you a lot more money. You might be pulling on the drain for the lights, or possibly the wiring harness for the radiator fan.

If the offender can be identified I would want to see him banned from a forum that I was running and identified (by name). However, it is nearly impossible to permanently ban someone. They can always come up with fictitious accounts/etc. and continue to scam people. Be careful I guess is the bottom line! I like to talk to someone on the phone before buying something or encourage people to call me. You can get a better sense of legitimacy over the phone as opposed to through PMs or emails.

Has the car been aligned recently? Is there any damage or worn bushings on the suspension components?

Magic! (PET a.k.a. Porsche parts catalog)

Sorry to hear about the trouble. You can safely pry those clips off. Grab from the larger outside plastic piece or pry it out from underneath using the plastic wheel liner as the leverage point. Forget about the thing in the middle. The whole clip will pop out and it will be broken but they cost just a few cents each at an auto parts store or even from Porsche. Do you own a crow bar? Or a locking pair of pliers? Even the back side of a standard hammer would work. Those would be my best choices at this point, don't be afraid to use some force. Treat it like you are prying out a nail. If you can get the wheel off that will really help here (maybe your wheel locks and tools are locked in the trunk also). It's not required though. If the car is jacked up a little you can get to all of those plastic rivets and the nuts and the entire wheel liner will come out. There might be a few phillips screws to remove under the liner as well (under car). Another option might be to just forget about getting in the trunk and unplugging the battery. Whoever is jimmying the door open could just deal with the alarm while they are doing it.

You'll need to get your cars IPASS codes which only the dealer or authorized shop with a PIWIS subscription can obtain. If you show proof of ownership a shop might provide you with the codes. Also, not 100% certain but you might also need the donor cars codes, which you probably won't be able to get. Or at least there was something about alarm unit coding limitations on used units. Lorens better at this stuff than me, so maybe he is reading this thread.

I assume this is a RoW car by the M534 option. Perhaps the coding of the unit has been changed for USA or otherwise since I see you are in two locations? In a more likely case, since you've eliminated the wiring and sensor, whats left in the picture is the alarm module. That unit 99661826006 costs about $275 USD at discount, but also needs to be coded by a shop who has a PST2 or PIWIS. Since throwing parts at it doesn't always work, it might pay to take it to a shop who has experience troubleshooting these issues (and could also program a replacement unit).

Have you tested the wiring?

Yes, it appears to hold the belt onto the child seat deactivation bar. Have a look at this picture: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Porsche-911-993-Carrera-Child-Seat-Deactivation-Bar-/150620368630

Have you used a tread gauge on the tires? If they are nearing the limit, perhaps it is time to replace them. Are they worn unevenly? Tires that are worn unevenly can have these types of characteristics The lug nuts should not be overtightened, rather they should be torqued to exactly 96 ft lbs in a star pattern.

Yes the alarm remote receiver goes to sleep after a certain number of days of inactivity. At that point you must use the key to unlock the car. (it's in the user manual, which I recommend reading). If your car has an alarm, the part for the door lock is 99653800104 and costs $375 from a source such as sunset Porsche. There could be more work involved such as cutting keys, not sure. To get easier access to the pull cable for the hood latch, you can remove as many of those plastic nuts as you can and then pry the plastic back. Even if you can't or don't remove the wheel it does help to jack the car, the wheel will drop somewhat. If you have another car you can use it's jack to jack the car at the jacking point on the frame (don't jack anywhere else, it is covered here under DIY). Once you are in the hood, you can remove the large black plastic cowling near the windshield (two plastic nuts) covering the battery. Then a simple wrench to disconnect the negative lead from the battery. Those pieces in your picture above just pull out. You can pry the small circular piece against the plastic base underneath. They simply slide straight out. I like to use a door panel tool to do this, but a pair of pliers or even a screwdriver should work. Once the alarm is disabled by disconnecting the battery, I would have a locksmith jimmy the door open. At that point you can reconnect the battery and either drive the car to have the lock repaired or attempt the repair yourself. So you don't get stuck in this situation again, make it a point to use the remote every couple days, or leave one of your windows slightly down so you can access the inside door latch to unlock the door. Or leave the car unlocked until you fix it.

I've seen a few typographcial issues in Durametric before, you should email them! They are very responsive and helpful. That being said, if your testing shows that activating bank 2 variocam does not change idle, and you are getting a CEL code for that problem, then likely the variocam actuator and/or solenoid needs to be replaced underneath the camshaft cover. There are a few corner cases that your DME could be fried and needs to be repaired, your wiring is damaged, or a camshaft position sensor is on the fritz. Here is a thread with the details on that repair: One thing I've noticed is sometimes Durametric will not activate variocam. Be sure everything is rebooted, your car is warm, A/C running and then start by activating bank 2 variocam (sometimes if you do bank 1 and then go to do bank 2 I've seen it not work before because of the software).

Could the release lever be involved somehow. Maybe bent? Do you only hear it at idle or is it present at other RPMs. I would guess so. It might be worth bleeding and then if no success perhaps replacing the slave cylinder, maybe it isn't fully retracting when you release the clutch? Not sure of your MY but you can get a new slave cylinder for about $110 + shipping. And then bleeding is fairly straight forward, there is a DIY here on bleeding brakes an slave cylinder.

No problem Father.

bore 96mm stroke 78mm

Yep, that is certainly on the high side.

I think he means the cabin filter?

If you are concerned install the IMS guardian. When properly used and there is a warning (shut engine down as quickly as possible) you can save big $$$$$. Even if the engine requires complete tear down you still save money because you have a rebuild-able core (which has lots of value) compared to NOTHING if you keep driving the car and the engine completely grenades itself. So less value perhaps than a car with a serviceable bearing, but certainly a lot more than being on the side of the road without a rebuild-able engine. Also, Porsche's revised bearing is as strong as the original dual row bearing, so it is beefier than what you had and chances are with proper maintenance and the IMS guardian installed you'll never have the problem again.

Here's a DIY: http://pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Replace_Coolant_Reservoir.html You should have the system pressure tested though, it's cheap and easy and will confirm whether or not you need to replace the tank.

I've read that C2 not as serious an issue mixing tires as C4. +1 to ^^^^ posts.

Off the top of my head, the cluster requires calibration using a Porsche factory computer (PST2 or PIWIS) and exactly 12 liters of fuel at time of calibration. If the sender is too far out of calibration (for whatever reason) it will not allow you to calibrate. I'll try to dig through some more stuff in the next few days in case someone else doesn't respond.

One mod people often do for the clutch feel is to remove the boost spring or install a less stiff one (purchase at home depot). It can make the clutch feel heavier, but provide more feel for engagement. However if it is engaging at the very top of the pedal the clutch could be nearing the need for replacement. With a new clutch I notice it does engage a little lower, but not dramatically compared with a very worn clutch disc.