logray

The display shows the level of the oil. From full (top) to low (at bottom add appx one quart). Generally speaking at least in my experience, the electronic level sensor is not as accurate as the dipstick. I always trust the dipstick. The car does consume oil, some as much as a quart per 1000 miles, so keep on top of your oil level. This is all covered in the owners manual, a good read.

Yep the reverse light is soooper simple. There is a write up here I'm pretty sure.

The backup light is probably due to a faulty reverse sensor on top of your transmission. Easy to replace. The rear passenger fog light does not work as far as I know, only the drivers side.

The secondary air system codes could be unrelated. Unless perhaps the SAI pump has gone completely bad and is rattling around. However that would only happen on a cold start-up, and not be dependent on RPM. I wouldn't drive the car without properly diagnosing this issue. Any sort of mechanical noises that sound like they are coming from inside the engine should be taken very seriously. Have the car on a lift or ramp with a mechanics stethoscope ready to probe what area of the engine the noise is coming from. Only run the engine as long as necessary to diagnose where the noise is coming from. If you are lucky, the noise will come from something that is external and easy to replace such as a bad spark plug, lose exhaust header, water pump, something caught in the accessory belt, or other accessory pulley problem. Hope this helps and good luck.

Is the stock alternator voltage and regulator sufficient to charge the Li batteries properly?

Looks like your post made it to wrong sub forum. If I remember right there is a difference in size standards for this plug for different countries, hence the size differences. There are "USA" kits you can purchase to retrofit for the socket and plug, including "non smokers kits" which replace the lighter with a non-smoking blank plug. They are relatively inexpensive. If you are interested spend some time with the search or come back to this post and someone can point you in the right direction. If you are not adverse to filing down what you have, I'm sure that might be the simplest and least expensive solution.

SAI pump location courtesy pelican parts: Large pump looking thing at bottom of picture.

Hi Alfred, Thanks for the pics of your car! I enjoyed that. As for testing the SAI system on your car, if you have a RoW car, it might not have a secondary air injection system (only a few countries outside the USA require similar emissions standards). If your car does have a SAI pump, and it wasn't working more than likely there would be stored trouble codes and in some cases even a check engine light. The SAI pump runs for up to a minute or so when a cold car first starts, but there are other conditions when it will run as well during normal driving. To check if your car has the SAI system, you could look for the pump in your engine bay. You can look at this post for a diagram of the SAI system: http://www.renntech....p0410-and-p1411 The drive link to activate the pump only works when the engine is not running, key in the on position. Or post the VIN and options codes for your car and we can try to decode if it has the pump or not. Cheers

Doesn't the DME store the distance traveled separately from the instrument cluster as well? OF course, as pointed out earlier that could also be replaced, and although there are some keen individuals who can tamper with the DME maps, I'm not sure if odometer or operating hours could be changed as well. All of this would be at considerable cost to the person doing the changes, mind you.... eating into their profit ... and unless the car had been driven many 10's of thousands of miles it probably wouldn't make much sense, not to mention illegal. Maybe the maintenance records will have an odometer reading on them, further proof of a clerical error?

P1571 39 Immobilizer - Open circuit/No Signal Looks like you still have some wiring issues to sort out...

Hello Bernard. It's tough to say for certain without knowing the codes. I personally wouldn't drive a car that is misfiring. Especially when the CEL is flashing. Flashing CEL = do not drive or run engine without expert advice. I would suggest either waiting to drive the car until you pull the codes or having the car flat bedded somewhere that can read them. Otherwise it's a guessing game where you start playing roulette with part swaps

Nice work!

Good point, if it's not a check engine light, but a systems fault light, you probably need a Porsche specific computer to read the fault (Durametric, PIWIS). Would defer to above posts regarding possible reasons or further troubleshooting steps.

Someone would have to replace a lot of internal very expensive components such as instrument cluster, perhaps additionally ECU and alarm modules, and the donor car would need very low miles, making it even less likely. Perhaps the carfax service or other report was a typo.

You can put bait in the engine bay too if the car is going to sit for a while. Also don't laugh, but opening the engine bay during storage makes that space much less cozy for them... I've seen this done in a number of pest infected areas.

You can have the car scanned for check engine light codes for free at most autozone, pep boys, o'reiley, etc.

Are you sure it's oil? Are there any obvious leaks around that area (i.e. AOS hose, throttle body, etc.)? Does it come back after you clean it?

Make sure you have all of the fasteners removed from the panels. Plastic rivet style, screws, and hex fasteners are common on those panels. The plastic bends very well before breaking. Don't be afraid to contort it pretty good. If it stops somewhere, you missed a fastener. Removing the bumper is relatively easy as well, but I do recommend having a helper since it is somewhat awkward. You might need to do that anyways to gain access to the radiators... not sure how you could do it without.

+1 to above, do you mean what's on the underside your filler cap? I've seen a little of this in my AOS and also on the oil filler cap, but it's not coolant (as proved by UOA). Best way to clear that out are some "spirited drives". Did you have the oil tested (i.e. blackstone) to see if there really is coolant in it? (before pulling the heads again).

I would not use the OE oxygen sensors at all with bypass pipes. If you are thinking of doing this look into O2 simulators to prevent CELs. This would not require any ECU/DME reprogramming. Just a warning though, bypass pipes are VERY LOUD (some race tracks don't even allow them) !!!!

I'm not so sure I would worry about corrosion inside since they are fairly well sealed from the elements. Antifreeze has corrosion inhibitors that will last years (5 or more). If you use a thick 20w50 grade oil before you store it I bet most of the internal parts would still be covered in a film of oil when you bring it out of storage. In fact, probably even with a lightweight oil. But you bring up a very good point about the oil going "bad" in that period of time. You would want to have the oil changed at very minimum if it was sitting for several years. If it has been that long, you may want to remove the fuel pump fuse, disconnect spark plug leads and crank it for a brief period to re-lubricate the engine internals prior to firing. I would also change out all the fuel before doing this, even if using a double dose of Stabil to keep the fuel from causing problems (up to two years). All of that being said: The best thing you can do for the car is arrange to have it brought to operating temp (driven) perhaps at least once every 3-6 months (AND NOT siting IDLING, but driven and warmed up). Hire someone to do this if possible, I'm sure they wouldn't mind driving it. ;) Store it indoors, fresh coat of wax with a quality car cover, battery tender, rat bait, fresh oil every year (minimum). Use up nearly all the gas before you store it, then add about 15 gallons of very high quality fresh fuel and Stabil fuel additive which will keep fuel OK to use for up to a year. Have the fuel changed each year with fresh stabilizer added (a good excuse to drive off the fuel every so many months). You can also slightly over-inflate the tires to help prevent flat spots. If you do all of this, when you are ready to use your car again it will be good as new.

Master cylinder noise would be from the front. Slave cylinder noise would be from above the transmission. On the rennlist thread speed rII had a good suggestion, can't remember it right now.

Nope! Take her for a good thrashing and by the time you get back from a good 40-75 mile drive I'm sure the smoke will be cleared up. In addition. If you missed a connection the car would probably not run normally. For example the idle might be very rough because of an intake leak.

Thoroughly clean the intake and AOS to throttle body tube. But aside from that, driving the car is probably the best way. I wouldn't use any additives/etc.

Hah! Nice work so far.