logray

I checked this for 99-01 recently and was very surprised at the cost for skirts. I want to say it was $200 per side (requires $$$$ painting of course). 02-04 was more in the $500 per side range for skirts.

Bank 2 at -10 degrees retarded timing is definitely out of spec and could indicate a faulty variocam actuator. Not being able to actuate variocam actuator by software could indicate a faulty actuator or solenoid. There is a possibility the engine is too far out of time and therefore not able to activate variocam. You could have a shop retime the engine to see if that corrects the problem. There is a remote possibility it is bad wiring, bad cam position sensor, or a bad DME (ECU). Swapping the cam position sensors between banks can eliminate that as a problem, but is difficult to do with engine in car. Isolating the DME can be done by applying voltage manually to the solenoid (which is what Durametric can do in software) and can rule that out. That can also rule out wiring. Apply 12v manually to the solenoid should produce a rough idle. It should also ohmed out at appx 13. If it does not, the actuator or solenoid are bad. In either case the camshaft cover has to be removed to fix solenoid or actuator and I recommend replacing both while you are in there. If none of those things work (which all should be ruled out before opening the engine), I'm pretty sure you are looking at a shop to fix the variocam actuator and/or solenoid ($2500-3500). You should have them re-time the engine when they are done since -6 degrees for bank 1 is at the max acceptable range for camshaft timing. There really aren't any "easy" DIY fixes so to speak on this... sorry to be bearer of bad news. Good luck. Oh, and did you try rebooting everything (car, laptop, durametric) and activating bank 2 variocam FIRST before anything else? That would rule out a problem with software.

Hi Jose, These threads might be useful to your questions: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/557497-led-taillights.html http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996/163851-led-taillights-thoughts.html

Yes, those are straight pipes. If you want to hear how loud this is, go and remove your cat converters. Fire up the car. See if you can tolerate it at idle.

If you suspect the battery as being low quality, then certainly a battery of sufficient quality and amperage is recommended. In the USA, you can remove the battery, starter, and alternators and take them to an auto parts store to have them tested for free. Their computer can determine whether the alternator and/or regulator is ready to be replaced. They can also bench test a battery for more than just voltage (for example amp draw). Other gremlins that can commonly affect the electrical system. Corroded or damaged ground strap from engine to chassis Corroded positive lead from alternator to starter to jump point in engine bay. Improper cable torque or excessive leeching from corroded components (starter)

Happy new year! To add, new sensors cost about $10 each at pelicanparts.com. Pretty much the cheapest source...

Jumpering: Follow the sensor wire to the connector behind the brake disc. Disconnect the wire from the plug. Cut through the sheath and 2 wires inside a few inches out from the plug. Join the two wires together (solder) and seal from the elements. Plug your spliced wire back in to the connector. Done.

My eibach sways squeak a little, but only when the chassis is flexed considerably. Time to re-grease!

+1 in regards the troublemaker. :) But also Subaru does use horizontally opposed design, and I wouldn't be surprised to hear if some of the others have played around with it in obscure scenarios.

Numerous threads about this. I noticed you double posted... however... Have a look at this thread: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/505634-oil-pressure-sender-unit-replacement-diy.html

Happy new year!

Could be oil pressure sender maybe oil level sender (perhaps other causes). The oil level is adequate? What is the exact message/failure indicator?

Electrical issues can be difficult to track down. There are multiple things that could be in play. I would say the following are the most common. Sometimes you can bypass cables using a good set of jumper cables to isolate issues. Something was incorrectly installed. Corroded wiring. Ground strap from engine to chassis, or positive lead from alternator to starter to jump point in engine bay Alternator and/or alternator regulator Battery (perhaps the one you bought was not charged completely or defective, and/or your charging system is inadequate) Ignition switch

Neat thanks for the info!

It's a tight squeeze, but if you pull back the liner under the passenger side dash I think that will get you closer to where you need to be (in the footwell).

Red or purple deposits can indicate fuel additives. Actually all of them appear to have a little bit of red to them. Google "how to read spark plugs" for more info. If it were me I would change the plugs, and pull them again in a 1000 miles or so to inspect. Are you using any additives in the car (fuel or otherwise?).

That's great! Would you mind sharing the part number on the cable? And is it similar to the one going to the engine which looks like a bicycle style cable?

Good to hear, and there were no misfire codes? Sounds like you might be back to normal once you sort the MAF and O2 sensors out.

Everything in your post sounds normal. Really tough to say from that pic, but that doesn't look very significant to me. When my AOS went out there was a lot more smoke. Do you have any back roads you can take it for a good drive, or perhaps late at night when the roads are clear? Around the block isn't going to do much...

Yep I don't believe they will fit without mods (welding/adapters). The tubes coming out of the mufflers are slightly different between 996/997.

Johan, Do make sure your heater is turned on while you are flushing/filling/bleeding.

Sounds like some serious hesitation and misfires. There are also some mechanical noises to be concerned about. Is your check engine light flashing? If the noise sounds like it's coming from inside the engine, any noises such as these should be taken very seriously, in fact it is a good reason not to drive the car but have it inspected (flat bedded somewhere), unless you feel troubleshooting the issue further. If the noise is coming from external to the engine you need to identify where it is coming from, with the engine cover removed of course. The engine should only be run as long as necessary to diagnose the issue. I would first retrace your steps to make sure you put everything back together right. I would also scan the car's computer for trouble codes. Good luck!

And my 60hp two stroke outboard boat hauls ***.... :)

If you don't have oily soot in the tailpipes or oil fouled spark plugs I wouldn't sweat it at all, just keep adding oil. Reminds me of my Dads Datsun pickup. He had to park it on the street because it leaked oil so badly. At one point before he gave it up I think he was adding a quart every week or two, with only a 30 mile commute each day. I always asked him if he was going to fix it, but he said "nah, at least this way I don't have to do oil changes because the oil is so fresh".

Good info as always Richard! One for the memory banks. Cheers.