logray

I remember reading a few posts where people prefer the "connected" feel of the throttle cable over the electronic. I test drove a C4 before buying my cable C2 and really couldn't notice a difference then, but I wonder if I would say the same now after having owned the car for over 4 years.

I've read everything from "we've done this and have a couple cars on the road" to "shouldn't be done, heat and CI is a problem with this engine". What's your take?

The voltage range should probably be close to what the electrical system is providing (minus whatever is being leeched due to wire distance, size, corrosion, etc). Did you try replace the fuse?

Good to hear, I probably won't have the bumper off for a couple weeks.

You can tackle the suspension in pieces, but sometimes the solution to getting a ride that feels "brand new" means replacing everything. Most people slap on new struts or shocks and it will solve the problem. Mind you that is just a general suggestion without being at the car and looking at it or driving it. Bushings fix the squeaks, pops, and a "loose" feeling in the steering. They are inexpensive, but moderately difficult to replace. Shocks/struts fix the spongy, soft, bouncy feeling. They are pretty simple to replace, but IIRC you need a spring compressor to swap the stock components out. Springs fix sagging, dipping, alignment, handling. Typically springs last longer than the above components, and different springs can have different "feels" as far as harshness, especially in cases where the ride height is lowered. You can also run coilovers which combine the spring and strut into one. They are typically much more aggressive (stiff) than standard suspension setups. Don't forget tires. Very worn tires can make a ride more harsh, regardless of tire pressure.

+1 to above, or you can look inside the engine bay, directly above the air intake box on the middle of the engine, top where the throttle body is (where the intake connects to). If you see a little bicycle type cable looped around the throttle body, you know you don't have an egas body. egas: non egas (cable)

LMAO JFP a couple posts up. Cheers and thanks for that!!!! To clb0099 according to their ebay listing, Casper is developing and nearly ready to release a single row kit (2000/2001 + engines). To Casper: How many cars are using this new bearing? What kind of testing have you done on the cars/bearing? Thank you for keeping your posts as "factual as possible" and not "as commercial as possible".

Good advice and good to see bypro on rt.org !!!

+1 get new shocks, perhaps tires, proper pressure and balance... should be golden. I would go for stock suspension if you are looking for the smoothest ride a boxster can provide (short of something custom, or really cheap shocks at a short change interval). I've had "standard" Bilstein shocks on other cars and the pcar and they've always ranged from slightly more aggressive than stock to dramatically more uncomfortable. On my 996 pcar, the stock suspension was much more compliant than the pss10's I slapped on.

+1 totally normal to see some air "behind the fluid" in the tube coming from the bleeder to the cap.

Replacing the clutch in the 996 is basically the same as the 997, and there are plenty of write ups. In addition to being very similar to the procedure laid out on the 996 work shop manual. There is another very recent thread discussing the same topic.

Front end: cool. Back end: identity crisis.

Based on this sequence number, it is likely the larger bearing was installed in the rebuilt engine. Your sequence: 69342 Lowest sequence observed thus far with 22mm nut: 66526 Mind you, this is still just a guess... because the sequence number information is not public data. As Loren states, impossible to tell for 100% certain without looking at it, because 2005 engine years were the first the larger bearing was observed, for the 2006 model years as well as replacements.

Here's what i could find, hope it's the right stuff. - 999 650 052 12 connector 3 per housing - 999 704 161 40 gasket 3 per housing - 996 607 401 00 rubber sleeve 1 (not sure if you need this, I would order one) - 996 607 402 00 rubber sleeve 1 (not sure if you need this, I would order one) When I bought mine on ebay it came with all the stuff I needed.

"The engine side appears to match pretty much, but the car side, plug 4 only matches about 60% differences in the pin locations" It sounds like it might be easier for you to source some matching components... usually a breaker can sell a matching set of wires/harnesses/computers/etc.

This "smells" normal to me. My 996 smells like gas too on cold startup. I happen to like the smell. If you want to talk about an overpowering gas smell, try standing outside my F150 on a cold startup... I guess some off chances would be a leak in the fuel system somewhere, perhaps the gas tank wasn't sealed properly if it was accessed for repairs. Are you starting it in a closed garage or something?

The fender guard is an option on the bra, not the car. "...with Fender Guard refers to the section of bra that arches behind the headlights. Bras listed as 'without' Fender Guard have the section arching over the fender & behind the headlight assembly deleted for a sleeker appearance & improved aerodynamics."

The casper labs kit is interesting, it includes a cup seal... http://www.ebay.com/itm/STOP-IMS-BEARING-FAILURE-BOXSTER-996-997-986-987-ENGINE-PORSCHE-/200700807546

There's nothing stopping a DIYer from loaning or borrowing a tool kit, it happens frequently on the forums. In fact, if anyone would like you can borrow mine. However I modified it to extract my LNE bearing. It will no longer extract a stock bearing. :-)

On my NA 996, I noticed improved throttle response. With the addition of some very expensive intake and exhaust bolt-ons additional grunt and noise. But mainly at the top end RPM range. In my opinion, it's not worth the money unless you've invested in other upgrades, and it is a slippery slope. Even with complimentary intake an exhaust upgrades you're only talking about a few 10's of usable HP at most.

I read through this ebay listing and a couple things stand out as "suspect". 1.) "This listing is for a dual row bearing upgrade kit for most of the first generation Boxster/Carrera engines 1996 up through 2001. It can be identified with the 20MM bore, 47MM OD, and no external retaining snap ring (after removal of the three bolt support piece under the crankshaft seal). The word "most" is underlined because many of these engines were serviced/replaced by Porsche, and could be carrying later revision parts." Where do they get this data from? And this is contrary to what LNE is saying that the single rows are more susceptible/higher rate of failure. 2.) "we offer this kit without warranty of any type (express or implied)." On the contrary LNE provides a warranty for pro installs who register their installs.... "PROFESSIONAL INSTALLATION RECOMMENDED and required for limited warranty."

As mentioned, the only "sanctioned factory method" for replacement is engine tear-down and a new IMS tube (with bearing) from Porsche. Current IMS tube discount pricing: $272 each 99610501563 1998 - 2000 (roller style chain) $1071.69 each 99610590100 <= 2000 (tooth style chain) $573.27 each 99610590102 => 2001 (tooth style chain) You could certainly buy a tube with the OEM bearing and extract it, but this would probably only work with a single row and you would have to source a new spiro lock somehow. Trouble is, with some (dual rows) having the internal lock, you couldn't reinstall the bearing again. So only option would be engine tear down. As for strength from the LN eng IMS site: "Engines replaced or vehicles purchased in or after MY2006 should have the revised, larger single-row IMS bearing, identifiable by a larger 22mm nut in the center of the IMS hub flange. This uses a very large 6305 single-row bearing with a load rating similar to the dual row 6204 bearing compared to the earlier single row 6204 bearing which has about 2/3rds the load rating of the 6305." "While an engine is apart receiving repairs from an engine failure or as an upgrade, to better address the known IMS problem, we have engineered our IMS Upgrade with a billet chromoly steel hub flange, an increased diameter bearing support/retainer (also manufactured out of chromoly), also providing increased bearing area and dynamic load capacity of almost 5,000 lbs. with our triple bearing - compared to 2200 lbs. for the single, 3060 lbs. for the dual row, and 3650 lbs for the MY06 and later single row. " "WE DO NOT USE CHINESE BEARINGS - BEWARE OF HIGH FAILURE RATES ON CHINESE CERAMICS!" "Recent improvements in purity and grain structure have given silicon nitride a high stress fatigue life equal to, or better than, that of bearing steels. Some tests have shown life 3 to 5 times that of M-50 steel. Performs up to 15 times longer in poor lubrication environments (like suggested by the bearing analysis above) as compared to steel."

Hope that solves it for you...

Not sure if it is "plug and play" like on the 996, but the switch does look to be similar on the 993. Part # 19 in the link below: http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/993/302-05.php I would get a second opinion before making that purchase.

I'll probably have my bumper off next week and if i can remember will take a look at that connector and see if there is a part number on it. In the case of the engine wiring harness connectors you can buy replacement sockets and plugs, so it's possible they are using the same setup with that plug. I seem to remember it being different though. This is just a guess, but the #2 on the left side in the link I gave you is for the left lights and trunk release, plus other things on the left side. The harness on the right is for the lights on the right plus the temp sensor and other stuff on the right side. The year of your car is important though, because in 2002 the right side one became part of the passenger compartment harness.