logray

Be sure they are seated properly, straight and far enough on the pipe. There is a rib on the pipe that the hose needs to go beyond, and enough so that the clamp has enough room to work effectively. The clamp goes on past that rib and needs to be snug. Certainly do not use old clamps.

Remarkable = Capitalism (more often than not)

1. you are prob going to need new latch mechanism or wiring is suspect, I doubt it is the switch. 2. use a 50% vinegar/distilled water solution and extremely clean hot towel designed for glass. (search google for more info). treat inside and out several times, followed by windex. put a towel over the dash before doing this. Afterwards, use A/C to deal with the condensation issue.

Just to make it easier to understand Lorens post... 2002 - 2005 Carrera 2 (coupe and cabriolet) Carrera 4 (coupe and cabriolet) Carrera 4S coupe Targa 2004 - 2005 Carrera 4S cabriolet (some 996's were marked as 2005 models before selling to 997 the same year)

Well there is no such thing as a 1999 C4S. Only a 1999 C4. It would make sense if you had a 2002 C4S (1st production year) that you could be charged more, those models are worth more. Again, the VIN number should clear all of this up, and typically this is provided to the insurance company who should validate what you've got.

It's been a long time since I've used those controls but I don't remember them being accurate compared with what the actual ECU is reporting. That, and I think all of the temp values were reporting the same thing. Next time I'm able to and remember I can try to compare those values.

I'm not sure what type of arrangement Durametric has with Porsche, but I am guessing there is some money being exchanged to have access to this proprietary info. So yes it is theoretically possible, however in my estimations doing some research about other manufacturers, an annual license (or perhaps one time fee) might be in the $100,000 per year range (or perhaps based on volume of sales), and this is assuming they would be open to partnering with an individual (or company) to provide this info in the first place...

The only way to gain access to the protected areas of the DME (example oil temp) is by means of authentication. Once authenticated, you can then issue the appropriate commands to interface with the various computers. Unfortunately, the authentication information is both proprietary and protected by international copyright law, therefore it is not possible to obtain unless a.) you license this capability from Porsche or b.) work at Porsche and have access to this authentication information.

The coolant temp sensor is also an inexpensive part and fairly easy to replace (aside from having to drain block of coolant and refill): 99660641000 about $25

I've always been able to twist them off without grinding/etc. I guess it depends on how badly rusted they are. To get them started, you can very gently tap them with a hammer to twist them or use some other form of leverage such as pry bar/etc. Don't pound on them too hard, because you don't want to damage the cats.

Shucks... Well here's what I would do. 1.) clear the code and see if it re-appears. 2.) if it does, try swapping sensors between banks to see if problem follows the bad sensor 3.) if the problem follows, perhaps the new unit just failed prematurely 4.) otherwise, if this is a start of repeated future failures, perhaps the wiring or DME could be involved. It might be worth testing continuity and condition of the cam sensor wiring between the DME and the sensor. I've heard of DME's burning up variocam solenoids but this would be the first Ive heard of one doing so with a cam sensor. hope this helps

Don't quote me on this, but speaking as a CA resident, you will eventually need to comply with SMOG in order to get California registration stickers. This could mean retrofitting SAI, O2 sensors, another cam sensor, and an ECU flash which would be both a nightmare and a tragedy. Again I'm not 100% certain on that, I haven't read the fine print either. Not sure about resale values of 996's in Italy, but perhaps selling the car and picking up a USA model once you're here would make more sense, even take the money you would spend towards shipping/import/etc towards a newer/nicer model (values of early model 996's here have only slightly rebounded after plummeting recently).

Heard good things about these guys... (ship tranny to them of course) http://www.gboxweb.com

This is great news!

Hose clamp not tight? I've been bitten that a few times.

Don't be too discouraged. At a good indie shop shop you are looking at maybe half the cost of a used engine to get it fixed. If you are at all automotive mechanically inclined or know someone who is, don't be afraid of dropping the engine and pulling the heads. It's not as hard as it may seem. Take it in steps, like JFP said, first things first is to assess the situation before going crazy. You might be one of the lucky few that just needs a new oil cooler and a good flush of the coolant system, which will not be that expensive. Whatever you do though, don't drive it until it is fixed.

Also to your question about PIN placement for the ECU between 2.7 and 3.2 the answer is that they should be the same because both of those model years (2001 and 2002) share the same DME version 7.2. Ok, dug a little deeper for you... The main car harnesses are built specific to a VIN and it's option codes. There are not multiple part numbers. 98661290300 $5700However considering some of the instrument cluster functions work, PLUS the immobilizer works I would guess the harness is very close already.

When you are creating a frankenstein there is not a ton of documentation on what is compatible with what and what will work. You may have to do some experimentation unless someone has done this before. If it were me, I would use the 3.2 engine wiring harness, because you want (most importantly) the harness to match the engine. But also it should match that up with what the ECU expects. If the car runs fine and you just have instrument cluster problems then that part of it (the engine harness and the ECU are probably close to if not 100% correct). The harness with the 2.7L is different, however probably not drastically different. The 3.2 might just have more connections for S model options. But he base stuff like oil sensors/etc. should match up. You would need to look at the wiring diagrams to be 100% certain. I wouldn't mess with the ECU anymore (because flashing that can cost $1000 and trust me is a major pain/black magic art). Besides, you already have a working combo of keys/immo/ECU which is really the hardest part of the whole equation. Besides re-flashing the ECU is not going to get you anywhere because all it might do is update the fuel MAP from 2.7L to 3.2L, really you are going to have the same thing as you have now. At this point that leaves a few possibilities. 1.) the main car wiring harnesses I tried looking this up, but didn't get very far. If you want to PM me the VINs from both the donor and original car maybe I can help more. 2.) coding. You may need to poke around coding on the instrument cluster and ECU using a PST2 or PIWIS. 3.) the instrument cluster There are significant differences between a base model 2001 2.7L and a 2002 3.2L S model. Without knowing all of the options on both cars, here would be my best guess for the instrument cluster part numbers... 2001 2.7LP/N 9866412030670Cm481 - 5 speed manualm016 - standard model2002 3.2LP/N 98664123302FHBm480 - 6 speed manualm008 - S model (3.2L)m659 - on board computer I don't like spending other people's money in this situation, but my best bet would be on an instrument cluster would be all that you would need at this point and it hopefully would be plug and play. However you may want to look at the main car wiring harness details in a little more depth first. If that doesn't work then you are looking at transplanting the main car harness and/or using a PST2 or PIWIS to change coding. You can pick up a used cluster at a place like DC auto for about $500. http://dcauto.gotdns.com/search/index?target=98664123302 IF you try that you may want to find out what their return policy is...

Sorry, but there is no thing as a 1999 S model. There is a 1998 air cooled S. If you are uncertain, you can call your local Porsche dealer and provide them with your VIN or decode it here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/content/vin_decoder It is fairly trivial to add an "S" to the rear deck lid emblem... http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/996-559-243-00-D04-M100.htm

You'll understand what I mean when there are many different versions of the cluster... http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/986-97-04/906-01.php And if you are going from tip to manual you definitely are going to have some compatibility issues with a tip cluster on a "manual" car.

In my previous post I mentioned that the instrument clusters have changed many times, and especially from 1999 through 2003. The 1999 wiring diagrams are probably of no use to you. If it were me, I would try to source the specific instrument cluster year that went with the engine/ecu/immo combo you installed in your car. My guess is that you are going to be fighting an uphill battle trying to re-wire what you've got...But if you want to give that a go.... You can buy the specific wiring diagram pages from Porsche PIWIS tech site (you would want one for the model year / model type) for orig and donor cars. Coding could also be important, for example if it was a tip donor into a manual car.

P/N 99610522352 Sure, you can replace it if it is leaking and is easy to do. The seal (cover) keeps the oil inside the head from leaking out past the variable cam timing solenoid (the thing with the wire sticking out of it in your pic). The solenoid has one simple connector to disconnect, then the new cover bolts right on. 7.5ft/lb IIRC.

Theory that repeated on/off cycles from a short could cause such strange symptoms.

britdave: Post #126 or thereabouts lists the CCA for various batteries from the factory. That being said, the more CCA the better. The cheap dura last batteries I've found to be "barely acceptable" with an optimal/trouble free system. The most expensive duralasts seem to get better reviews. Yes heat soak can reveal weaknesses. Other common problems which are well documented here on rt.org and elsewhere: [*]Poor ground strap connections/ground strap cable[*]Loose or corroded connections to all primary wires[*]Underperforming component (battery, main leads, starter, regulator, alternator)[*]Corroded or cracked (and in some cases undersized) primary wire on the engine that runs from alternator to starter to jump point[*]Lots of accessories added to car without considering battery/alternator size[*]Use a battery tender, especially if the car is not driven every few days and long enough to recharge the battery

Model years 2000 through 2002 were somewhat tumultuous for Porsche and instrument clusters. The clusters changed just about every year, and even possibly within years. Assuming all the connections are correct, it is possible your cluster is not fully compatible with your donor modules and engine. For example an S cluster might be slighlty different than a non-s cluster. Ideally you would want to match the cluster to whatever car it came from (or one that had similar options). If you did something like put a manual in a tip car or vice-verse, etc.. then you most certainly have a compatibility problem that coding probably cant solve. It's been a while since I've been in the PST2/PIWIS, perhaps there is some coding that could help some of the instrument cluster stuff, but probably not all of it. Perhaps someone else can chime in on this.