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logray

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Everything posted by logray

  1. Ok, removed the MAF sensor. Between pins 1 and 3 on the MAF I get very brief blips of a reading appx 900 to 1.9k ohms when I first touch the probes to the pins, then infinity if the probes are held onto the pins for any length of time thereafter. Sometimes there is no reading. Replaced the battery in the multi meter and tested several more times, same results. It's 61F, 7F below the 20C BTW.
  2. Thanks Loren, will check and report back today.
  3. After firing my newly rebuilt engine for the first time yesterday, I noticed that the intake air temp sensor might have been reading 63 C (145 F), I will verify this during the first drive. The engine oil was allowed to heat up to 111.8 C (233.24 F) and engine coolant to 102.8 C (217.04) before it stabalized (those were high points), I have a hard time believing it was 145 F in my garage. I turned on the high speed radiator fans manually and also had a couple external fans blowing on the radiators, it certainly did get hot in the garage, but not 145 F hot. :) Could this be a sign of a bad IATS on the MAF, and are there any additional troubleshooting suggestions I should do perform before replacing the MAF? Thanks in advance.
  4. If you don't normally frequent rennlist.com, I've posted my DIY including detailed commentary of a complete engine rebuild (and light restoration) using LN engineering's 3.6L Nickies product offering. Enjoy! Here is the link: http://forums.rennli...the-finale.html A few highlights below including the first engine firing video at the bottom. (click each image to enlarge)
  5. As long as it is a compatible part I don't think the DME cares. Although I have read about a re-flash fixing gremlins before.
  6. Could you have installed a bad "new" throttle body? Perhaps try bolting your old one on, if you still have it, or borrow one if you can?
  7. Yeah definatley go with the aftermarket kit unless you are a master body fabricator or have access to one.
  8. I must confess the real reason why it is this clean. :)
  9. The other advantage of the hollowed out socket is that it makes snuging up the bearing to the LNE installation tool a breeze.
  10. How about calling a dismantler shop to find a broken unit that matches? Perhaps they might have some wrecked cars with broken clusters and would make you a good deal?
  11. Road force balancers work great. Porsche also sells water for your coolant tank, but I prefer to buy water from my supermarket. ;) If you are hearing howling you might be ready for a new set of tires, I would measure the thread depth. Depending on the vibration, it could also be due for an alignment.
  12. Here is the thread I was talking about about, and the post specifically that calls out the spring from home depot. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/7601373-post277.html (above that post a few there are more instructions how to get to the spring itself). I'm showing the genuine part 99642308119 at about $55 from a discounter such as Sunset Porsche.
  13. Perhaps try connecting the opposite headlamp to the weak side to try an eliminate the headlamp itself or wiring. I know that might be difficult though, because it would mean removing the connector from the backside of the light tray and then plugging it in from the wheel well. "is firmly attached to a strong metal bracket" Even though it may be attached to the bracket, is the connector itself firmly seated into the headlamp unit's plug? If the tray is not lined up, or cracked, or broken it could cause the symptoms you describe. I've had the exact same issue with a weak light and it was because the connector was not fully seated into the lamp. "No clearance for the screw lugs (that the 2 side screws screw into) (not sure how to keep them in place while pressing the vent back on)." Get a helper, or try a magnetic screwdriver. "Also switch lug didn't protrude enough for the knob to snap back on. I thought it would be automatically positioned when I twisted the switch into place and then retightened fastening nut 26" If I remember right the switch cover itself just presses/snaps in. You don't need to pull out the switch to do so. It won't automatically position, I think there is a tab that orients it correctly (you must line them up while installing it).
  14. If you are going to let it sit, I would disconnect the dead battery from the car, even if you don't remove it. Some batteries can be recharged and will provide years more of trouble free service. On the other hand some batteries are gone. It doesn't hurt to try and charge them but if they show signs of weakness they should be replaced. As for a good battery, there are a couple battery threads for you: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/618336-had-to-upgrade-my-battery-after-2-5-years-on-group-48-replacement-battery.html
  15. No doubt it's worth the price, Eric's stuff is high quality
  16. They look great, but for $300 I will pass. I could probably accomplish the same or similar results on my own with a can of custom paint from paintscratch.com for example.
  17. You should disconnect the battery any time you are doing electrical work. You should also check to make sure the headlight plug is fully seated in the assembly. To do this, remove the wheel and wheel well liner to access the plug for the lamp.
  18. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/676049-996-twin-turbo-trunk-and-wing-on-c2-narrow-body.html :)
  19. Amazon is a good cheap place to buy Bosch O2 sensors. They are same part Porsche sells for a couple hundred bucks. Post cat - $53 http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-13723-Oxygen-Sensor-Fitment/dp/B000BZG79C Pre cat - $80 http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-13564-Oxygen-Sensor-Fitment/dp/B000BZG6WA
  20. I think someone did it on rennlist, but it took a lot of modifications.
  21. I seem to remember reading here or on rennlist about someone going to home depot and finding a spring that is the excact size and length, and it worked perfectly.
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