logray

Hey what's that in your profile then, it says 2001? ;) Same DME as 2001, same code. To reset adaption, key on engine off 1 min. Key off 10 sec. key on again, Check and erase faults with code reader (i.e. durametric). No the fuel pump would not activate if it doesn't have power.

It's a 2001, ME 7.2 P1502 Throttle jacking unit, spring test That's the third or fourth one of these in the last couple weeks!

Also if the engine case does get scored or ground to hell and back, I'm not so sure a new pump would be able to perform as well, since the clearance between the impeller fins and case will have changed. It's just really not worth the <cough> "savings". Been there done that with a cheap aftermarket pump (fortunately with plastic blades), it leaked at the shaft after only 100 miles before I ripped it out. If you modify your new pump, you also run the risk of making it weaker and more prone to premature failure. The companies that sell this crap should be given a swift strike with a switch across the back.

Sounds reasonable to me versus buying a used or new transmission. I'm not sure what official book time is but I read estimates between $600 and $1000 depending on hourly rates to remove and reinstall the transmission. AOS, LNE IMS bearing, RMS seal, clutch kit and inspect flywheel as JFP suggests.

Yes I did recomend the oil pressure sender as well above, but unless someone can explain why it only goes bad when the engine is idling and hot, I'm not sure that is where I would look first. It might be worth cleaning the sender contacts at least. I think the manual states 3 bar at 5000 rpm engine fully warm is considered normal. His cold start and crusing numbers sound normal. I doubt his oil temp is much higher than the coolant temp, and it shouldn't be enough to warrant running less than 0.5 bar at idle, his pic looks like around 0.35 bar. It might be worth reading out the oil temperature from the DME at the same time the pressure reads this low. If the oil pump was bad or if there was a blockage in the oil pickup tube.you prob wouldn't see 5 bar at cold start and 3 bar at 3000 rpm. There might be other symptoms too if those were the case. I still advocate going after the simple things first before tackling the more difficult, example first try relief spring. Even just pull the spring out and inspect it. Literally once the oil is drained it is one bolt and about 30 seconds of time to inspect, dead simple to access right under the car. Then I would go for cleaning the sender contacts and oil pressure sender. Then if still not good, pull the sump check for picckup tube blockage, pull the oil pump cover inspect for wear in gears and surfaces. There's always an oddball chance it's woring or a fault in the gauge, you could also hookup an external oil pressure gauge to the top of the 1-3 camshaft cover oil pressure test port.

Return the pump, get a genuine Porshce one. I wouldn't risk having the pump damage your engine case ($5000-$10000 to replace).

16 inches yes. :( Vacuum leak and exhaust restriction just does not make sense to me, if you can reason this please provide an explanation. Upon DME resetting the fuel adoptions, the engine runs great until about 40 miles, then fuel trim starts to go bad even after all of the work I've done. The idle is soooo soooo smooth at TRA 0.02 or 0.00 after DME reset, then it gets bad at -0.10. Released propane into engine bay over various intake locations, no change in idle. I don't own a smoke machine. I think I'm losing it. They say the definition of insanity is repeating the same thing over and over and expecting different results. Same results even after doing the following several times over now. RE Vacuum leak. Plugged SAI holes in the cross over boots Clamped brake booster line Clamped EVAP purge intake line Did not plug fuel pressure regulator hose New AOS, AOS bellows, & clamps (4th time I've put a brand new AOS on the car) Flange sealant around base of AOS bellows ferrule in 1-3 head Flange sealant around AOS port into case Flange sealant and new oring around AOS breather on 4-6 head. Epoxy around entire perimeter edges of intake plenum parting lines New AOS tube orings with recommended lube Epoxied and tested for leaks on AOS tubes to T-plenum behind T/B as well as the 4-6 head. New intake plenum orings/gaskets (3rd time) New intake plenum bolts (3rd time) New intake riser gasket (3rd time) New intake riser bolts (3rd time) New brake booster and alternate side intake plenum brake booster cap orings. New throttle body oring (4th time) Dismantled and cleaned IACV (5,000th time), new IACV gasket (twice) Cleaned throttle body (8,000th time) New fuel injector orings with recommended lube Exhaust restriction: Cleaned and inspected headers inside and out (4th time). New gaskets for exhaust manifold (5th time) Fabspeed stainless steel headers resurfaced (cost a mint to do stainless) New header bolts Heli coiled bad threads in heads Purchased and installed used 3.6L stock mufflers (same prob existed with aftermarket mufflers) Bolted on old cats (pulled off at 45k miles and then reinstalled at 65k miles). Cleaned and inspected cat tubes with boroscope Cleaned exhaust tips, lots of fuel soot after only 20 miles of driving. Doesn't look like oil soot this time around with the new rings, pistons, and cylinders. However with new rings, pistons, and cylinders appx 300 miles on them, perhaps rings haven't fully seated allowing excess blow by. Or perhaps the lean condition resulting in excess fuel inserted by the DME due to inadequate injectors caused poor conditions for good ring seating (fuel wash), snowballing from there, causing below normal intake vacuum readings.

Yes they will work is what a reputable source is saying. I wish I had time to locate what injectors 1999porsche911 were running, I guess he had some beefy injectors. Oh well.

Continued driving and the TRA continues to go further negative. FRA probably pulled back a little towards 1.02/1.03 because I wasn't as hard on the pedal. This is with SAI, fuel evap, and brake booster blocked. During rebuild I replaced AOS, epoxied intake manifold, new intake seals, sealed AOS tubes, new AOS tube orings, new throttle body seals, new SAI tubes, dismantled and cleaned IACV, new IACV gasket, ugh. If there were an intake leak it wouldn't run so well during a fresh DME reset with new fuel adaption values. Tested vacuum, appx 16 psi @ 680 rpm idle. :( :( :( :( :( :( :( Ordered a set of 3.6L white injectors @ about $93 each incl. shipping. Fingers crossed. Don't know what else it could be at this point. Even though my old injectors were cleaned maybe they were tired and had enough, which would explain the pre-existing condition. That and if the flow rate calculations by the professional cleaner are correct, they are only putting out 60% of their original capacity ... and I'm expecting them to work harder than they did before with larger displacement. I really hope this is right because this could be the final straw.

All normal except idle pressure. I would start with the oil pressure relief spring and piston.

google "rennlist 996 oil pressure relief spring"

I've upgraded my cylinders to 3.6L and want to run the 3.6L injectors, but I'm not sure if they will fit (oring/wiring) in my 1999 fuel rails. The part number is 99660612200 for 3.6L and they are white. Does anyone have any information whether this will work or not? edit: Or if anyone can recommend an aftermarket solution. I'm searching but not having luck. and edit: I see there is only one size oring available, so I'm guessing they will fit... but not sure about wiring to the injector, voltage or impedance, can't see why it would be different though, just a two wire injector. Can anyone with a 2002+ wiring diagram see if the wiring is the same as the 1999? Heres the 5.2.2 wiring and 7.2 Not sure about DME 7.8 though, although interesting PET says the white injectors are good for 01 up which includes 3.4L cars. Strange.

Also injection time at 680 warm idle was spot on at 3 ms which is the factory setpoint. Maybe up or down 0.1 from that. Perhaps that is also part of the problem, if it only thinks it needs to be open for 3ms, and it's a smaller injector so it's not opening long enough. Of course, I would think the O2 sensors would pick up on that and adjust the injection time accordingly (which it's not while idling, unfortunately don't have data or info on what it's supposed to be above idle).

Yes I absolutely am wondering myself if the default DME map (program) requires some tuning/modification to deal with the increased displacement. Or perhaps the DME is bad. As for any check engine lights or diagnostics codes, there are none. The last code this car popped was a faulty variocam solenoid (but was actually a bad DME). I have another DME in the car now, running a stock map. I'll PM bypro and see what he's running as far as injectors. Thx. Interestingly, I added 10 more miles to the car with the evap purge intake blocked and the brake booster port blocked. The results are odd. The long term FRA have moved back to 1.03/1.02 from where they were before in the 1.06/1.08 range. And the TRA continues to go south, to -0.10. While the car was peforming poorly before with -0.10, it seems to be doing better now especially at idle. Perhaps the brake booster or evap purge are the source of a vacuum leak. Let me tell you it's a good thing we have power brakes. Don't block or remove your brake booster and drive the car unless you have a deserted road to drive on.

Good idea. I think bypro built the longblock, I'm not sure it has been fired up yet (still in longblock form). I think I remember asking or he stated that he generally cleans the injectors during rebuilds. Yes this has me somewhat concerned too, and am still questioning the injectors. That why does it seem to run fine at default and then go downhill from there. I'm wondering if even though it has good power and idles very well perhaps it's not actually running fine with the default map (O2 sensors sense it is running lean and start to dump fuel). So to start out it runs lean, and seemingly well... then as the O2 sensors see the stock injectors aren't injecting enough fuel for the larger dispclament it starts enrichening the mixture to achieve the proper stoichiometric mixture. And maybe it's just borderline not keeping up, or maybe if I drove it long enough it would throw a code. Also, if it was doing this before the rebuild (to a lesser degree, not as high long term but just as low short term) then perhaps it is something else. I'm going to monitor the injection time and see if it is drastically higher than the 3ms it should be at hot idle.

It looks like BMW's X4 concept:

Unfortunately Durametric cannot monitor post cat sensors on 5.2.2 DMEs. I think ME 5.2.2 only uses them to monitor cat efficiency, not affect fuel trims, but I could be mistaken. I might be onto something with the fuel injectors being inadequate however. Would it make sense that the long term trims would go more positive (add more fuel) because the stock 3.4L injectors cannot dump enough fuel for 3.6L displacement. If the O2 sensors are reading long term is lean, and more fuel is required this might support the theory. Then at idle or short term, it keeps pulling fuel back into negative territory thinking it's running rich (which it probably is since it has to open the injectors longer for the larger displacement).

edit: it could also be the oil pressure sender, but how does the oil pressure behave when not at idle? For example what does it read on cold startup, and what does it read at 3000 rpm in 5th gear. It is abnormal, especially if you are using a 0w40 weight oil, and especially with the engine operating temp indicating what it is on your picture, and especially if it's only 70F outside.. But the oil weight certainly does have a bearing on this, do you know what grade of oil you are using? Was it filled at a dealer? Is the oil level (amount of oil in the engine) proper? Try some searching for oil pressure relief spring. When they break, the pressure can drop like that as you've observed. It's a very simple fix, basically a $10 spring and one bolt to remove under the engine to replace it. You can also replace the oil pressure piston at the same time, it is aslo very inexpensive. It's worth replacing to try and remedy that problem, because the other "fixes" for low oil pressure are not so easy or inexpensive.

I'm going to do some more testing today like eliminating (plugging) more vacuum consumers such as brake booster and SAI. I'm wondering if intake vacuum is insufficient causing a fuel pressure regulator problem. I will test intake vacuum as well. I also forgot to mention this issue was present before the new cylinders and pistons. Before the rebuild, FRA was 1.04 (normal) and TRA -0.16 (abnormal) (injectors had been professionally cleaned and still produced these numbers) Perhaps I should buy the newer white injectors which are two generations newer than what I am running which are the original blue colored injectors off my 1999 M96-01. I had the injectors professionally cleaned and the results after cleaning were 61 ml / 36 ms and 38 ml / 3 ms. Of course, even after the cleaning 61 ml/36 ms works out to 131.76 cc/min. Maybe that is part of my problem, since it's still way below even original bosch flow specs? Something doesn't line up there though with the injector cleaning report, if they were only providing nearly half the fuel they are supposed to something would be seriously wrong. I doubt the TRA or FRA would be close to spec. Here are the injector specs: 0280150455 (orig bosch blue p/n) 21 lbs/hr 220.7 cc/min 0280156053 (latest bosch white p/n) 22.75 lbs/hr 239.1 cc/min A scan of the injector cleaning report here: http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/3015/drinjector.jpg

Using your code reader, have you monitored the following from a cold start? O2 sensor pre-cat voltage Coolant temp Air mass LTFT (or FRA) STFT (or RKAT or TRA)

You can remove the wheel and wheel well liner, both are not very difficult. Then you have clear access to replace the ballast and harness.

That is definately abnormal, especially if it's 21.5C outside and the engine coolant temp does not appear to be abnormally high. What weight and brand oil are you running? Is the oil level sufficient? It could be a broken oil pressure relief spring, as this has been documented here and elsewhere before.

It can only go in one way, the screw holes don't line up otherwise.

Thanks, I posted over on his forum and offered to pay if he's willing to help and knows the answer.

I clamped the evap vacuum line going into the throttle body and unplugged the control solneoid. DTC for unplugging the EVAP solenoid, but don't care. Reset the fuel trims to default again, 30 miles of driving. FRA/FRA2 now at 1.06/1.04 TRA/TRA2 now at -0.05 I'll have to drive it more tomorrow to see if it keeps going downhill again. That's about all I can do today. It's very annoying because it seems to really do much better idling at about 0.00 or 0.02 TRA when it first starts out. Power delivery seems better when it's closer to 1.02. IAT stayed more around 30-35C, but it's a cool day only about 48F while driving around.