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logray

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Everything posted by logray

  1. Interesting, I woulid suspect the wiring more than the DME if it is isolated to one cylinder, you might think with the DME it would be random cylinders if it was the ECU flash.
  2. A 5.2.2 DME will run a 2000 (and 2001) engine in a 1999 C2 car, provided you changed out the throttle body to cable operated and wired in the IACV (or if you were reusing your existing wire harness from a 1999 C2, just transfer the throttle body to the donor 2000 engine and you are done). Other than that, the 1999 and 2000 and even 2001 engines are pretty much identical with respect to wiring. Although there might be a few drivers aids options like PSM, etc that you would have to leave disconnected since the 5.2.2 DME might not understand how to operate those, but the engine would certainly run. If you were to put the 1999 C2 5.2.2 DME in a 2000 MY car, you're asking for trouble. You would need to do a ton of rewiring, repogramming, and it wouldn't be worth it because the 7.2 DME is superior to the 5.2.2 in just about every way (not to mention less expensive).
  3. I own and really love the PSS10's. Not only does it lower the car, but the handling is phenomenal over stock. I drive on some pretty bumpy roads, and while it does transfer a bit of that to the seat (more than stock), on smooth roads it's smooth as silk. When you crank the stiffness up to 10, it's like driving on rails. Just be sure to stay "within" the acceptable ride heights from Bilstein and you'll be OK. As for the exhaust I hear good things about Cargraphic. Also search for Fister D mod to stock mufflers. I used to own fabspeed, and while it was great, it started to drone after a while, but I've heard their newest stuff doesn't drone as much.
  4. How about some close ups, hard to see from that pic. Who makes them?
  5. Durametric should be able to read all of the cars modules and read out fault codes. Sometimes those codes can indicate problems with electrical issues. However, I can't remember any pertaining to the windshield wipers. Unless you want to try a "common electrical bug fix" such as the ignition switch replacement, and since this is not a common issue. this problem might take some old fashioned probing with a multimeter and process of elimination. This is a very difficult thing to diagnose over the Internet.
  6. The 6204 single row (~2001-2004) seem to have higher reports of failure, they are the weakest. The 6204 dual row seem to have less failure reports, they are as strong as the newest single row. "Engines replaced or vehicles purchased in or after MY2006 should have the revised, larger single-row IMS bearing, identifiable by a larger 22mm nut in the center of the IMS hub flange. This uses a very large 6305 single-row bearing with a load rating similar to the dual row 6204 bearing compared to the earlier single row 6204 bearing which has about 2/3rds the load rating of the 6305."
  7. Yep! http://www.lnengineering.com/spinonfilteradapter.html At the bottom you will see links on how to purchase. Also, I believe www.pelicanparts.com resells them. They both ship internationally.
  8. I like it because it's even easier to change the oil filter, plus it provides 100% oil filtration, which the stock filter does not. The only downside is you can't cut open the filter as easily, you need a special tool to properly cut open a metal filter to inspect it. As for clearance you will only have a problem if you sandwich in an accusump adapter, and even then unless your car is lowered you won't have a problem. So stock ride height and no accusump sandwich and it won't be any lower than stock.
  9. The original 986 and 996 (first made around 1997) seal has been revised many many times since then.. The latest one I believe is from around 2005-2008ish and is the PTFE seal. Came off the cayenne or cayman if I remember right. The part number may have been revsied since then, but the seal is the same. Just be sure to buy the part from a dealer or reputable sources and you will be getting the latest one. For the 996, this is the latest p/n avialable and the one you should be using. 99710121201
  10. The answer is in my previous post. This doesn't sound normal to me. A loose connection perhaps? Shorted wiring? Bad light switch? Bad ignition switch? You can pull the switch cover off, it just prys off from below (where the red arrow is) and see if the wiper control is connected.
  11. Home made RMS tool: http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18315
  12. I couldn't help it, but have you seen this? http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/997-forum/679106-991-pictures-of-what-is-required-to-get-to-the-oil-and-air-filter.html To get to the air filter:
  13. For ME7.2 on a 2001 car, to me it looks like pins 19 and 20 are the 12 volt signal to the hall sensors, pin 2 respectively. And pin 1 is ground. If you are reading 12v+ with ignition on from pins 19 and 20 while grounded, I think your DME might be faulty, or at least perhaps you aren't testing the correct pins. My copy of the wiring diagram is poor, but it looks like 19 & 20 are on DME connector 3 (III). To me it looks like the 5 volt signal comes from J185 on wire RE/VI and is wired in series to both hall sensors on pin 3 (although yours is ROW car, so might only have one hall sender). "When I look at the scope picture provided in the Porsche diagnosis manual the signal level with running engine is jumping between ~13V and zero. Therefore, I don't understand the testing procedure for P0343," I am guessing this is because the hall sender measures when camshafts are rotating each time the reference mark on the cam passes over the sensor you see the voltage spikes, then goes back to 0 until the next revolution. But with the camshafts not moving, maybe it is supposed to read 0 volts? Not sure though, could be the other way around. Maybe while you are measuring your engine happened to stop at a point where one of the hall sensors is over the reference mark on the camshaft? That would be pretty lucky though. Did you try replacing the cam sensor? It might also be an error in the troulbeshooting documentation, I found another documentation error a few days ago (I think, still researching) Did you test for continuity between the CMP connector and the DME? And did you also check the resistance of those wires? If there is excess resistance or no continuity, then maybe the problem is with the wiring (since in your testing procedures you measure the voltage on the wires, and also on the DME itself, but I don't see a test for the wire path, although the voltage test does fulfill that somewhat). Do you have a Durametric or PST2 to read the camshaft deviation? Just throwing out ideas.
  14. Here's a DIY on how to get to all of the stalks in the steering wheel: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/91-ELEC-turn_signal_switch_-_OBC_upgrade/91-ELEC-turn_signal_switch_-_OBC_upgrade.htm The wiper control circuit is relatively complicated. On a 1999 model year (might apply to later years, don't know, sorry), the wiring is somewhat complex. To the wiper motor from the stalk you have bk/wt and green To the wiper intermittent control from the stalk you have bk/gn, bk/ye, gn/bk, and bl From the wiper intermittent control to the intermittent control module? you have ye/re, looks like gr/bl/re to 12v, and br to a ground point From the wipre motor you have br/wt to the wiper intermit control, bk/ye which looks to go to the fuse for the wiper (fuse C6), and br to a ground point. If you have the headlight cleaning system there are many many more wires and motors involved. Still if they were working fine before your shop performed the work and then after they weren't working fine I would have them pay for the repairs, perhaps take it to a shop or dealer and send the painter the bill. Can you use any reasoning to see how they could have damaged the wiper system in any way? For example did they remove panels and disconnect wires and then perhaps damaged a wire or stalk, etc?
  15. What's interesting to me about that cap is why there are not 3 or 4 screws on it. It only has 2, and this leaves two of the edges without as much clamping force. If it had more fasteners I bet it would not leak.
  16. These are for a boxster but nearly identical procedure for the 996. transmission removal http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/44-TRANS-Clutch/44-TRANS-Clutch.htm clutch/flywheel/main seal http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/44-TRANS-Clutch/44-TRANS-Clutch.htm
  17. There are two componenents to the FOB portion of the key. The transponder pill, which is used to disable the immobilizer when the key is in the ignition, and thus allows the engine to start. The remote radio unlock feature which is used to remotely unlock the doors. The two functions are programmed independently and it is very possible one can work while the other does not. Diagnosis requires a Porsche computer, i.e. PST2 or PIWIS (2). FOBs on 996 cars that do not have a 20 digit programming code available cannot be reprogrammed to match a car.
  18. I've had my engine out and completely dismanteled several times now and never encountered this problem. I think your problem is probably unrelated to the engine drop, or at least perhaps you may have caused a short or something along those lines. Are there any diagnostics codes from your alarm unit?
  19. I'm wondering if they damage some wiring while painting the trim.
  20. Well either way you have to remove the camshaft cover to replace the solenoid and/or actuator. So if you are opening up the cam cover, might as well replace both, otherwise if you replace the solenoid and it turns out to be the actuator you have to remove the cam cover again (read, major waste of $$$ on labor).
  21. I would report this issue to Durametric. You can open a support ticket here: http://www.durametric.com/webportal.aspx
  22. Yes this sounds like a failed actuator to me. Oil leak in spark plug might cause a mis or slight mis, unrelated to variocam issue. You might have a leaky hose or coolant tank somewhere. Usually if you get under the car and fish around with a bright torch you can see tell tale "whiteish" fluid/residue from the source of the leak.
  23. Did you re-open Durametric and try again? Sometimes it crashes, usually a restart will clear that up.
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