logray

It's more than just the harness... read above, you also need totally different computers/etc. Swapping all the wiring out would be insanely complicated and tedious, and if you got it to work it would be amazing to say the least. Just for 0.2 liters? Really? A lot of the guys on the track say there isn't a whole lot of difference performance wise between the 3.4L and 3.6L cars...

I refreshed mine a few years back. BEWARE of ebay scams (been there done that). I suggest only buying from a reputable source, or from enthusiast websites such as this (with the appropriate evidence of course)..

Hi there! Sorry to hear about the troubles. Do you have the trouble codes that the code reader provided? Do you have a friend with a Porsche and a Durametric or PST2 or PIWIS that can connect to the transmission computer and read out the codes? Hope it's something simple!

Did you try lloyds? I tried looking too for a factory option but made my own solution. There was a member here long ago that had some spares, sorry, can't dig up the post or name..

Could be a throttle body/throttle sensor. Maybe crank position sender. It would probably be good to check for codes and using a multimeter before the above swapping parts. A lot of places such as autozone, etc. will scan codes for free.

Is yours a Tip? Have you read out the fault codes? Have you ohmed out the crank position sensor? (search)

IIRC, the transponder pill does not need power, similar to passive RFID (it might even be passive RFID). This is why it works in your "non-powered" valet key. The tranponder pill receives the RF request from the immobilizer, when close enough to the ignition switch, and then uses that energy to respond with the correct code, and if it matches to the immobilizer, enables fuel and spark. Transponders and remotes cannot be re-programmed unless they are accompanied by their 20 digit programming code (typically on a piece of paper printed along with a new remote), and this also requires a PST2 or PIWIS programming computer in order to program. There is not a sequence of pressing buttons I am aware of that will "mate" the FOB to the immobilizer.

Just a handle, LOL. -Logan

Best of luck, hope it goes well... Posting a pic, upload it to imageshack.us, photobucket, picasaweb, etc. Then copy the link to the pic, and click on the picture button in the toolbar (below the smiley/font buttons). Then paste in your picture link. Alternatively you can resize your pic and upload it here, but I'm not sure the size contraints which is what you're running into... haven't gone down that path..

You can get the washers at Napa too. ;)

In the non-working key, I am guessing either the transponder pill has gone bad or is not "mated" to the immobilizer any longer (or never was). Have you confirmed this by transfering the pill from the working valet key to the other non-working key? And have you checked/replaced the battery on the remotes regarding their inability to unlock the doors remotely?

If I remember right suncoast porsche had a few, but they could be gone. You could try sunset porsche. They come up on ebay from time to time, but they are expensive. I've thought about scanning mine in to have it as an electronic format, if I ever get the time. If it's ok, I would certainly share it here (haven't looked into copyright details).

Thanks Loren, I really do appreciated it. Sorry yes I have it wrong you are right, I found the correct numbers which match yours from the 986 DME diagnosis manual. With the IACV disconnected, measuring the IACV itself between pins: 1 & 2 I get 8 ohms (close valve) 2 & 3 I get ~ 16 ohm (open valve) With engine off, I have Durametric which can activate the IACV and I hear it activating. On the bench, with a 9v battery, positive to pin 2 and negative to pin 1 the valve closes rapidly and nearly completely. 9v+ to pin 2 and negative to pin 3 and the valve opens rapidly and completely. I am thinking this might be a marginal IACV... the close valve ohms might be the clue, but there are other clues as well. The idle valve itself does buzz/hum once it gets hot, perhaps because it is leeching voltage due to a failed winding. Here is what is happening, the hot car is idling along just fine at 680 rpm dead steady without any issue for several minutes and is butter smooth. Then out of the blue just randomly the idle starts to drop to 600, then wander around for a minute or so and then the DME cranks it up to 760ish and it is butter smooth again and then slowly it goes back to 680 where it will idle smooth for a while until the whole stumbling thing happens again. Here's what the RPM looks like when it is going through one of it's stumbling fits: I always thought though that the small idle adjustments were done with ignition timing and the large ones with the IACV. Maybe I have that backwards, and what is actually happening is the IACV is not up to the task, so the engine has to compensate with igition timing and explains the idle bouncing around and rough running. Here are a few more clues, the long term fuel trims are around 1.0, which is normal (car screams at mid-high RPM ranges). But the short term trims near idle crawl back over time, going negative -0.06 currently, and even a little lower if I let the DME learn more (I've seen -0.1), indicating rich running, fuel is not being combusted so it is leaning out the mixture. Perhaps this is because of lack of air entereing through IACV, the engine is being starved for air (sounds like it too when it's stumbling), and incomplete combustion (sensed by lambda), which is because the DME is closing the idle valve farther than it thinks it is due to the lower than normal "valve close" resistance being 1/2 of what it should be (measured 8 ohms, should be 16 ohms). In other words the DME is closing the valve more than it should, because the resistance is low, and therefore starving the engine of air at idle, incomplete combustion, rough running and eventually less and less fuel to be injected which it thinks will solve the problem. Does this make sense? I sure hope so, because I can't find any other problems. Off idle the car runs like a dream. Dropping $250 on an IACV I don't need to replace seems silly, but ... the evidence is stacking up. edit: a couple more clues here is that off 680 rpm idle it runs perfect, the stumbling never happens... even something like turning on the high speed fans or more loads, a/c etc. causes the stumbling to never happen.

On the IACV itself... Is the resistance between pins 1 & 3 (close & 12v+) supposed to be ~18.4 ohms? I am reading 32.8 ohms. Between pins 1 & 2 (open & 12v+) I am reading 15.4 ohms. This are readings at appx. 60F.

Best of luck to you if you decide to emark on this endeavor. Tearing down the engine is one thing. Rebuilding it is an entirely different ball game. I did this on my own but it was quite a challenge. I spent countless hours (over the course of several months) researching. The actual rebuild process took 4 months of rebuilding time (turn around for Nickies alone is 1-2 months), and I spent nearly $12k (LNE nickies, R&R rods, etc). If you are going to do it on your own, I highly suggest you attend Jake Raby's M96 engine rebuild class this spring, I think he still has a few slots, and it is in a month or two. Well worth the money compared to the cost of the rebuild. Unforatunately the timing of the class didn't work out for me, otherwise I would have gone; I may still go some day. You are going to learn stuff in the class you never would by just reading a manual or reading someone else's thread. Best parts suppliers are Sunset and Sonnen Porsche, but sometimes rmeuropean, autohausaz, pelicanparts, and suncoast porsche. Here's my thread, it's not all in there, and I certainly am missing some things a veteran at M96 rebuilding would be doing, so don't take my thread as a "DIY" on how to do it. You need to invent, have tons of spare time and money to be successful (and even then, one big mistake, and you need to be prepared/accept the fact that you might lose it all). http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/672370-engine-rebuild-part-3-the-finale.html There are other options. You can buy a used engine, there was one for sale with low miles on RL.com a few days ago for $7,000, and I've seen them go for $5000-$6000. For roughly the same cost as it will take for you to properly rebild your engine, you can buy a new Porsche engine (about $14k last time I checked), granted it won't have the upgraded internals such as Nickasil, JE pistons, etc. You can also send your car to Jake at flat 6 innovations, and he'll turn it around in perfection for about $16-20k, if you can wait - he did say he has a few slots open in the very near future. If you cut a ton of corners you might be able to do it yourself for $8-10k which would still include a lot of new parts, but why would you want to go cheap if you spend $4000 on new cylinders and pistons????... you're throwing money away if you don't go all the way and an old used part fails and destroys the engine. There are alternative sleeve supplies that do cast iron with stock pistons, but their options are just $1000 less than LNE. Hartech in the UK does the same thing LNE does. No, you can't go without new injectors, engine manangement wouldn't need to be reprogramed regardles. Yes I would update the LNE bearing. Replace as many parts as you can afford. You need to ask yourself during the rebuild, do I really want to reuse that drive chain that only costs $40, or do I really want to button up the bearing carrier without properly measuring and re-aligning bore if necessary and using the same bearings? Do I really want to reuse the same rods without upgraded ARP bolts? Do I really want to put the same old tired variocam actuators in the engine and know I'll be tearing into it again in short time? Jake tells us the easiest way to lose $12,000 in parts rebuilding the engine is to not spend $1000 on a critical piece, such as upgraded rods and bolts, or re-using chains, or reusing the IMS paddle, etc.

Those cam bearing marks could be from the factory, or they could be from a previous tear down, perhaps during refurb or perhaps later during an actuator replacement.. There should be identical numbers stamped on the perimeter of the cam cover and heads, to show which bearing caps match which heads and covers (they are a matched set). This is all spelled out in the work shop manual, you do have a copy of that and have read through it right?

Thanks for the update, good result!

(I looked for official documentation, but all I could find were forum posts...) When/if the AOS fails and creates abnormally high crankcase vacuum, the spring in the crank case/AOS breather opens (more?), thus spewing more oil out than it normally would. It could be a leaky AOS tube as well, the tube that goes from the 4-6 head to the AOS can become brittle and crack, and while it doesn't cary flowing oil, there is fine oil mist. There are also o-rings on either side of the two AOS tubes. You could use a thicker o-ring if it's not a good seal. You should use a little tire sealant around the o-ring to help provide better seal during installation. Don't overtorque the breather to the head, since it's plastic it can deform.

Could they be mud flaps? :)

I've often wondereded this myself, but I think it serves as another method of pressure relief, perhaps due to overfill or excessive crankcase vacuum or ventilation?, or is even normal functionality of the engine/AOS design. I haven't read up much on this, sorry. Here's what I've observed/thoughts: Certainly replace the AOS "breather" as it's called. Replace the o-ring Even though this probably isn't necessary used some selant around the breather above the oring on top of the head. Even after all of this and a couple thousand miles since replacement, I've noticed mine still "weeps" a tiny little bit of oily mist/vapor, but not like it's pouring out oil or anything.

Wow that is fast. Here's a thread with some tips on using the uview, it's for the 996 but most of it applies to any car.

Cool!

IMO I've never seen chrome done well on these cars... just a matter of taste I suppose.

You could probably rig the vacuum kit/fittings to do a pressure test if you wanted to.

+1, good advice. When you vacuum fill, it sorta checks for leaks like a pressure test does (not exactly the same as a pressure test though). I would pressure test if you think you have a preexisting leak, such as in a coolant tank, heat exchanger, etc. But for run of the mill refills after replacing a hose or two or three... Once you draw the vacuum and seal up the system, you wait to see if the vacuum holds for a period of time. If it does hold vaccum then there are no (large) leaks and you are good to allow the vacuum to draw the coolant in and fill the system. The uview airlift 5500000000000 does a great job of this, I've used it countless times on my 996, and only costs about $100. It comes with a ton of adapters for all sorts of different cars, I'm sure one would work with the 9PA. You need a roughly 5gal or larger air compressor to operate one of these units. There is no better way to refill a coolant system on any car. Best part is you can buy it from renntech.org store at Amazon and rt gets part of the profit: http://astore.amazon...tail/B0002SRH5G