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logray

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Everything posted by logray

  1. All mirrors are heatable and electronically adjustable. For a 99 MY: 996 731 035 01 mirror glass aspherical /L 1 M 270 $54.80 at your dealer 996 731 035 02 mirror glass flat /L 1 M 271 $97.21 at your dealer You can find them elsewhere, www.pelicanparts.com, www.porscheoemparts.com, www.autoatlanta.com, etc.
  2. Assuming it's not a T/B or pedal adjustment... If it is cable op, could it be cable stretch (the 996 NA I own had this issue, I work with bicycles and have diagnosed the issue as cable stretch). There are some hacks on the 996 NA to entertain (modify gas pedal underside). However on a cup car, if it is cable stretch, I would without a doubt replace the cables, and skip the hacks.
  3. Right on! Glad it's working well! Thanks for the update. I'm looking for a good alignment shop in Reno or Sacramento, do you know if they fit the bill? I'm hesitant to use the dealer in Reno, as I've read a few negative reviews.
  4. Thanks for the update, I hope it's something simple in the head. Did you boroscope before pulling the cover?
  5. 120bar??? Smells like trouble to me if you don't have a monitoring system rigged up the right way. I hate messing around fuel, and at those kind of pressures you are looking at a pinto disaster waiting to happen. Thanks for the visualizations and the reply. I have a feeling I've read that before with the gauges taped to a window. Carefully stored in the grey matter, and thanks again!
  6. Also was the head pressure tested under heat? A crack might not surface if it is "cold" tested.
  7. Yes, it's pretty normal, then you'll notice another "change" in power usually around 5000 rpm.
  8. If it's not a crack in the heads or oil cooler have you checked for a crack in the cylinders?
  9. Hello! This is likely due to the variable cam actuation and/or resonance flap.
  10. That's a shift cable clip. Where the cables clip into the sides of the transmission. Put some zip ties around those cables where they are supposed to fasten to the side of the trans (not on the shift arms/levers themselves, but where the clips are).
  11. Perhaps it's too dry in Boulder, or you've just never looked at your pipes on a cold humid morning?
  12. Just curious JFP if you normally measure fuel pressure at the rail at times other than engine off or idle. For example, do you expect certain values at no load 3000rpm, 5000rpm, etc.?
  13. http://forums.rennli...230-post20.html (3.6L variocam plus engine, this is half the procedure)
  14. Can you post a picture or two of what you're talking about?
  15. Check this out! http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/77-BODY-Window_Regulator/77-BODY-Window_Regulator.htm
  16. I would make sure the dipstick matches up, but if it isn't loosing a ton of oil chances are it has been leaking for a very long time. Yes you can drop the gear box only to replace the RMS and IMS seals, engine can stay in the car. Typically, when the box is dropped, a lot of people like to also replace the AOS ($100USD) and IMS bearing ($600USD) as preventative maintenance.
  17. I like the 98' 911 GT1 style of the headlamps myself... ;) All just a matter of preference I suppose.
  18. None of the factory turbo bumpers use the MK1 986/996 normally aspirated GT style headlights. You have to go aftermarket if you want the turbo look.
  19. This is a huge can of worms. There are a couple people that have done pre 2002 model year face lifts (making a 1998-2001 cars front end look like a 2002+ NA or turbo car's front end), but it does involve a signifigant amount of more work and money than just swapping out the front bumper, the headlights being different are just one of the challenges (and no you would not "trim" the bumper where the headlights go, you would need to actually buy the new headlights, fender, paint, wiring, supports, etc. etc, etc. etc. ). Best options to keep your life simple, unless you are up for a huge challenge: Buy a bumper that fits your model year car (same style headlights are the clue). Buy an aftermarket kit that was intended for your model year car, and provides the look you are after.
  20. Hello! Yes to me that looks like you could have a leak from the bell housing. The second, third, and fourth pictures are pretty revealing. Either from the RMS seal or the IMS seal, or both! I wouldn't panic though, certainly it should be addressed, but chances are the car has been like this for a long while. Does the car use a lot of oil? You can clean the area and see more precisely where it comes from, or remove the transmission and inspect/repair those seals. Hope this helps.
  21. Hi Mal, There are a few possibilities here I would investigate. 1.) Something is triggering the roof mechanism, maybe when it's closed it's not getting the signal that it is fully closed and tries to open again. I don't have a lot of experience or info on the soft top, so hopefully someone will chime in. 2.) Your airbag system thinks for whatever reason the car has been in a crash and in this situation opens up the windows automatically for saftey. A Porsche computer such as a Durametric, PST2, or PIWIS is required to diagnose this problem. 3.) Your ignition switch is on it's way out and is causing unexplained electrical behavior. Are there any other symptoms such as lights staying on, etc? The horn beeping twice is indicating the car is not secure (could be a microswitch), one of the zones is open or unsafe (trunk, gas lid, arm rest console, radio, engine lid, passenger compartment monitoring, etc.). This could be a symptom of the soft top problem though, and not the cause. Hope this helps.
  22. I don't think it matters which way. It's easy to swap it around if you are curious.
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