logray

yes, in fact.... i went to all blue for mine.

Shine a bright flash light on it when it is not displaying, you should be able to make out the digits, and as the previous posted pointed out, should just be a bulb. If you can't see the display, then you would be looking at board repair or cluster replacement (both are $$ compared with bulb).

This thread should clear up your questions. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-996-997-forum/656157-alternator-pulley.html

A great thread, and the answer here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/3934281-post5.html "There are two different alternators for the 996 and 986 for the early year cars depending on transmission type. The only difference between them is the pulley. The automatic cars have a standard fixed pulley while the six speed cars have a one way roller bearing, or one way clutch, built into the pulley. The one way bearing/clutch works like a freewheel sprocket on a bicycle. On the alternator it will allow the engine to drive the alternator as long as the engine is not rotating slower than the alternator. If the engine speed drops then the alternator will carry on spinning freely until it slows down enough for the drive to resume. I won't go into detail, but this helps to reduce the loads on the drive belt which helps to lengthen belt life."

The voltage should stay about about 13.5 volts at all times, this is including when all accessories are on full blast. The symptoms you describe can also be caused by other issues, which are well documented. - Tired undersized/battery. Even though it may test out OK, a high quality battery with at least 900+ CA should be used. These cars are very sensitive to battery issues. For example, try installing an Optima battery with 1000 CA. Also it helps to take the battery off the car and charge it using a computer controlled 6AMP charger. Then once re-installed use a trickle charger, such as CTEK to maintain it. - Corroded or undersized positive lead that goes from the generator to starter to jump point. Porsche updated this cable many times and is a big source of headaches. - Tired starter. Did you have it tested as well? Sometimes a weak or under-performing component can have a parasitic affect on the other components, and until they are all replaced/diagnosed you are still going to have these symptoms. For example in my case I had a bad main cable going from generator/starter/jump point. Once I replaced regulator, that main cable, starter, both main ground straps (with cleaning), and the battery with an Optima, it starts up like an angry squirrel every time.

On a C2, if there are no drivers aids, example PASM or TCS or a non-stock diff, I don't see any reason why you can't mix fronts and rears. I have done this in the past with my 99 C2, and in fact have different fronts and rears. I do race the car and don't really notice much... On the other hand if it is a C4 or you have stability management or traction control/etc. Mixing tires is really not a good idea as it can actually cause damage long term, not to mention short term handling issues.

Have fun and be safe... this one has been on my bucket list... and I will be curious to know how it goes. Although I wouldn't trust my dad to drive my Porsche that fast. :)

In Phoenix during the summer 5-40 or 5-50 would be the minimum choice for me. I might consider running 15-50 during the summer and 5-50 during the winter. Or just 5-40 or 5-50 all year round, since technically there is not a 15-50 approved oil from Porsche for 997.

Totally normal. What ambient temps does the car normally operate in? What weight oil do you use?

You can also pick up a can of plastic trim paint from an auto parts store. Sand them down first. They'll look new again.

When they are new the fit is very tight. I also carry a spare in my frunk.

If you follow the link I provided you'll have your answer. Anyways, here it is: A/C Poly-Rib-Belt, 6K x 2115(mm)

This one works great for me and it's cheap. http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/996-102-151-66-M21.htm

If the heads on the engine are truly from a 2002, then the 7.2 DME should basically be compatible with the original variocam system. This would account for why the engine runs with either the old or new DME. That being said, without the serial number or knowing what is actually inside it's hard to tell what is actually in the car at face value. For example, you can run the 2002 heads on a 2003 block. There are only a few compatible options there. IIRC it was not until 2003 when the 986 moved to the Variocam Plus system, whereas the 996 moved to VCAM+ in 2002. Totally different cam operation requiring different DME's, wiring harnesses, etc. Returning to stock would be my first priority, most of the time when I read about the frankenbuilds with these cars they are only successful when left in the hands of the professional, but keep the info flowing, and hopefully we can get you up and running.

Yes sorry to say Intermix in sufficient quantity can develop in a very small amount of time. That being said, sometimes the engine needs a good thrashing or two to clear out residue. Do inspect the coolant reservior once it has cooled down, and post some pics.

Good post above. +1. I find you have to drive over about 45mph before the radiators start doing their job efficiently.

M9621-672 belongs to a 2002 Boxster S 3.2L. The S models are almost certain to have an OBC. However, the engine serial number can be totally different from that, and what is stamped on the engine case would provide the most accurate info. If someone scratched off/removed the original serial number it's going to be nearly impossible to tell what the core is aside from tearing it apart. GL with the cluster, I hope that solves some of the issues, although you may still run into problems with fuel level sender/etc.

Software cannot be found on this forum... sorry. The software you seek carries a copyright and is illegal to distribute. In addition, the legitimate source of this (Porsche) charges upwards of $20,000 USD annually in order to use it. So, does it make sense to pirate something that a huge international company charges so much money for? It is worth the risk?

Did you decode those options? http://www.renntech.org/forums/options/ Also did you get the donor engine serial number yet?

I like to call it the sewing machine noise.

Fingers crossed. Good news.

I rarely do this, but there's actually a great thread over on rl.com about this... http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/555682-why-is-clutch-pedal-pressure-so-hard.html

First, don't run the engine at all. Certainly drain the oil and inspect the filter as a first step. It might be worth opening the cam cover for more inspection, this can be done with the engine still in car. For example if it is just a broken spring and there was not valve/piston contact, then pulling the head and replacing/inspecting hardware might be all that is needed to get you on the road, which would cost considerably less than a complete engine rebuild. If the timing is waaaaay off, then you are looking at valve/piston contact which could spell out the need for deeper repairs, at which point you might want to look at your rebuild/replacement options. Mike has a good write up here: https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/what-can-you-do-if-your-engine-is-blown "He indicated that the guide for the left drive train had been completely worn away, that the left tensioner was shot and when he replaced it and the cam plugs that the chain had actually jumped the timing. He said there was a significant amount of wear on the chain itself and the place where the guide used to be." This diagnosis doesn't sound right to me. First if you replace a tensioner for the IMS to cylinder head, you can't see the chain because there is a ramp in the way. If he was somehow able to see one of the three chains, and could see that it was worn, your engine needs to be completely torn down and rebuild. Second, if you are missing a chain ramp, as in "used to be" meaning it isn't there any longer, you're engine is toast. If one of those ramps failed and broke off they are very large components and it would almost undoubtably cause catostrophic failure. Third, if it was the main IMS to crank tensioner, you can't see the guide, you should only be able to see the paddle. On a 2004, chain guide wear inside the head is highly unlikely, because unlike the early variocam systems, variocam plus has one large chain that goes around the variable camshaft actuators and the ims sprocket, the timing advance is accomplished inside the vane adjuster and the variable timing/lift solenoids and not by increasing/decreasing pressure on the chain like it was with the older systems where chain pad wear is common. The large long chain is tensioned and held in place by two very large ramps, which if one were to break it would certainly spell disaster.

This is by far my favorite DIY article on this subject: http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Bleed_the_Brakes_%26_Clutch.html

Another option for you is fister d motorsports in northern cal. http://fdmotorsports.net/ The last time I talked to Darin at an autocross I think it was somewhere around $50 or less for the baffle repair (I have a muffler that has the same problem). They can cut a small hole in the muffler and then reweld the baffles. They can also install a bypass pipe for more noise and add a ceramic coat.