logray

I guess it's a toss up sometimes, swap parts or pay the piper up front and maybe not swap as many parts... but at the rates they charge, maybe it isn't so cut and dry.

Great news!

FRA are both at 1.0, which before the 3.6L injectors was closer to 1.1. TRA are both just a few hundredths negative, whereas before the new iACV 1 tenth or more neg. AFR today on the dyno was a very flat 13 ish through the entire RPM range.

BTW as a follow up to my posts above, the new IACV does not vibrate, buzz, or get hot to the touch. The best part is, it solved the short term fuel trim problem and the car no longer has stumbling fits during idle.

You mean the tapered hole for your cig butt? :)

The open area is probably just that, an open cavity that was not intended for any purpose other than having the trim covering above it. The white "nylon" block could be part of the shift mechanism. I would stay away from that. To do the job you are trying to do correctly, I would remove the center console. It is not terribly difficult to do and that way you get to see underneath clearly and won't damage any components by drilling/etc.

Right, you only need a gas pedal right?

More cents to throw in. 10 year old fluids should be replaced. Coolant (use only Porsche or compatible coolant, Porsche says lifetime, but other "lifetime" coolants say lifetime means 5 years.) Brake (should be done every couple years) Transmission Power steering Diff Also: Serpentine belt. Water pump (buy a Porsche pump) Aside from that these are optional: AOS IMSB

Google "variocam primer" for more info on variocam plus. While the solenoids in the TT might be similar, the variable cam timing systems are different.between the turbo platform and m96/7 platform. The cayman m97 is a bit of a hybrid between the boxster s engine and 997 engine (both derivatives of the M96), but the info in the variocam primer about variocam plus is very much applicable to your engine. IIRC cayman went to the new DFI design in 2009, maybe just S models though, can't remember.

If it is a problem only on one side of the engine swap the actuators for lift and timing between banks. If the problem follows the swap, you've at least cut your chances of whether the solenoids are involved in your problem... and then continue narrowing down... Perhaps someone with newer literature can provide you with the correct ohm readings for those solenoids.

The car will throw a code if there is a problem 99% of the time. A better way to check vcam+ operation is to monitor actual angles parameter in durametric. With a warm engine, monitor the values at idle, then slowly rev the car up to around 4000rpm and you should see them increase to their max value.

Sorry to not answer these questions direclty, but may I ask... Why are you troubleshooting your variocam system? Are there any stored trouble codes? (the DME should throw codes if variocam is not functioning correctly, in which case you would want to carry out diagnostics...)

Without a good seal at the oil filler neck, you are asking for trouble and is a recipe for engine damage.

Aftermarket coilovers change the ride height so usually the camber cannot be adjusted to standard suspension ride height, in other words it's generally not possible to align a lowered car to original specs. There are other suspension packages from Porsche which do allow for more adjustment and lower the car and thus the reason for my question. And thank you Loren, GT3 seems to be the resounding answer.

First suck out as much power steering fluid as you can. To get to the rear bolt, remove the throttle body and t plenum behind it. Then remove the power steering fluid reservior. Then reach around with your left hand while you guide a socket extension from the top with your right hand between the intake plenum. Then it's not so bad. The two front bolts are dead simple to remove. Disconnect the one wire going to the compressor. Then the unit slides out and towards you. But then you have the gas to deal with, which should be evacuated and captured by a professional. Then once you've disconnected/reconnected the hoses, they need to be recertified, tested for leaks, and the system charged again.

Oh geez, right below a cylinder, yes that is a tight space and a big chunk of plastic. You did the right thing getting it out!

I love the smells my car makes. Sometimes I'll go out in the garage after a drive and just smell. I know, it's probably bad for me, but I don't care. No other car I've ever owned smells like this. It's how every car should smell if you ask me. You are describing a burning smell. Burning is not an adjective I would use to describe my cars smells. Perhaps on your car a piece of under body or cowling is rubbing on something like a wheel, maybe a wheel bearing is gone, or perhaps something that can melt is contacting a very hot surface such as the exhaust or engine. Maybe the best thing to do is find someone who is familiar with the smells ride in your car and comment, or take it to a shop when it's smelling and have it on a lift, to see if anything looks suspect.

If you've had your car aligned on a computer, what did you tell the shop the car was most setup like? GT2, Turbo? I'm assuming the alignment computer is going to crash if you tell it that it's a stock 996. I'm going in for an alignment tomorrow, just for toe, camber and caster. I mistakenly installed a steering wheel one spline off, and had a cheapy alignment done, now that I've corrected the wheel it's off. It's also off because I had my engine out and also removed many suspenion components during the restoration (both front and rear). I removed one of my coilovers to repair a broken bolt, so I'm sure that is contributing to the bad alignment. I wasn't happy with the front ride height so I setup the car at 26" from ground to wheel well on all 4's (yes I know CB would change that). I would go in for a CB but can't make it to a good shop in the bay area right now, have to settle on just an alignment. The last good alignment I had done included a corner balance (ALL done by hand) and the car was 100% perfect. I'm taking it to the dealer and am wondering what I should be telling them as far as specs (or what car to mimic).

Isn't that what brakes are for? LOL.

As a contributing member here, you can find the TSB under the DIY Tools menu at the top of the website. You might also be able to get it from your Porsche dealer. Regarding the oil pressure. What you show there looks normal, even though your car isn't warmed up yet. Once the car is warmed up, generally anything around 1 bar to 2.5 bar at idle is normal (depending on the oil temperature, viscosity, etc.). It seems like you are equating oil level with pressure. While they are somewhat related in certain situations, you will not be able to notice a difference in oil pressure if your car is substantially overfilled. Additionally, the engine is fitted with a pressure relief valve, which under normal operating of the engine by design once the oil pressure reaches the designed "max" (which is still below what would be considered safe), the relief system will hold the pressure where it needs to be and the rest of the "pressure" is returned to the sump. Oil pressure is also a function of engine speed, since the pump is driven indirectly by the crankshaft. So in other words a quart off in either direction from "middle filled" is not going to show up on your pressure gauge. And anything in the overfilled direction is not going to show up on the pressure gauge. Again, generally speaking higher oil pressure is GOOD (what you want to see), it is safe to operate the car at any RPM when the oil pressure is at 5 bar. Avoid excessive RPM until the coolant temperature gets to around the mark below the 180, try to keep it below 4000 rpm. All of this is spelled out in the owners manual.. If you haven't read it I highly recommend reading it. Low oil pressure is bad. The manual states 3 bar at 5000rpm warm engine is normal IIRC. Anything above that is gravy (good/healthy). Below that, not good. If you see the oil pressure dip quickly or randomly with a steady RPM, there is an oil pressure problem which could be a number of things. Substantially low oil level will show up as low oil pressure (quick drop of the needle) when you make a hard turn. Racers who take the car to near the limits require special systems to help keep the oil pressure up and the oil temp down, as there are some "shortcomings" of this engine design under those extreme conditions. Daily drivers who don't push the car to the limit on a race track will not expericence these issues. There can be other internal problems which create a low oil pressure problem, but have nothing to do with the level of oil in your car. Lastly, the accuracy of the 996 gauge cluster is less than to be desired, but is "close enough" for most people, for example the temp gauge numbers are pretty meaningless, the oil pressure gauge has been noted to be very slightly off, battery slightly off, speedo slightly off, etc..

Bosch 1 928 403 137 Porsche PNA-721-043-00-134 Ebay http://www.ebay.com/...t-/110458796554

Your oil pressure could be perfectly normal depending on temperature, and even at "normal temp", 3 bar is only .5 to 1.5 bar higher than normal, which is not necessarily a bad thing. What temperature did you observe this at? Specifically, since the dash gauge is inaccurate, can you post a pic of your instrument cluster when you are seeing 3 bar at idle? Generally speaking, high oil pressure is not a concern compared with low pressure. To a point of course, but the stock gauge doesn't depict anything above 5 bar. Also did you look at that technical service bulletin I posted for your model year car? That is VERY important to reading the correct level of your oil, if your engine happens to fall in the range of cars that require a new dipstick.

There is a DIY here on rt.org I think on how to polish your current tips. If your tips look tired and dirty after polishing they will look brand spanking new.

Whew! Good!

Oh no! Well you dropped it right above the top near roughly the cylinder 1/4 area of the crankshaft/bearing carrier. Chances are it might be stuck around that area somewhere. Problem is, to access that area requires pretty much complete engine tear down. More than likely if you run the engine the piece will get pulverized and flattened and then caught by the filter or deposited in the sump, HOWEVER, I would think you might also run the risk of potentially blocking an important oil passageway before/after it gets pulverized AND/OR once it's freed and made it's way to the sump blocking a portion of the oil pickup tube, etc. PIeces much smaller than that do turn up from time to time from other parts in the engine. I would get some second opinions on what to do next.