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logray

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Everything posted by logray

  1. logray
    I'm guessing some of your electrical gremlins could be due to the wiring you've done. It is also possible the strange symptoms stem from a faulty ignition switch, or could be unrelated. Again, I would try to return everything as close to stock as possible, and then proceed with adding a 12 volt socket correctly. Then proceed from there to monitor what problems the car still exhibits, and proceed troubleshooting from there. Eliminate as many variables as you can so you aren't troubleshooting several diffiernt issues simulataneously. The only "usable power" you should be using in this car is 12 volts. The entire fuse bus runs off of 12 volts if I'm not mistaken. You should locate the original sirius 12v to 5v dc "cig lighter" converter (or buy a replacement if you have to), and use that per my advice above to wire in a new 12v socket somewhere under the dash., drawing power from an unused accessory fuse position or piggy back off of another fuse using the appropriate adapter.
  2. logray
    200 degrees is not hot for this engine. In fact, when the needle is pointing at 0 the coolant temp is probably between 200F and 210 F, the oil temp likely higher. This has been discussed ad nauseum in the forums, but the dash temp gauge is both grossly innacurate and non-linear. The reason why your needle doesn't move past the 0 in 180 is because a.) you're not driving it hard enough ;) and b.) typically around the middle of the 0 is when the low speed fans kick on which depending on your driving sytle will likely maintain the temp there. Around the right side of the 0 the high speed fans should kick on, and it should not get signifigantly hotter unless you are on the track driving at maximum RPM on a hot day. On a cool day with a very healthy engine and cooling system, driving above 55mph it should actually drop on it's own more towards the 1 or 8, without the aid of the fans..
  3. logray
    Sounds like what we call a "salvage title" then in the USA, which probably voids the warranty. I would be interested to get this information too, since this is such a new engine there is very little info I've seen about it publicly available. If no one here has it, I think you might need a PIWIS subscription which provides access to this information online here: https://techinfo2.po...r?Type=GVOStart Once you have a login, you might be able to purchase just the document you need (if it is available and you meet the requirements), with pricing listed here: https://techinfo2.po...Pricing&lk=ELSE Not sure though.
  4. logray
    As RFM points out, IIRC on rest of world models the siren is driven by a separate battery. There was a thread recently where I learned that. If I'm not mistaken on USA cars it is driven off the main battery, under the front trunk center cowl.
  5. logray
    RFM has some good advice, there was a thread here very very recently which pretty much exactly mirrored what you are experiencing. His turned out to be a stuck lifter and once replaced the problem went away. As long as the cylinder and plug looks fine, you are prob looking at a lifter, but should eliminate everything before opening the cam cover.
  6. logray
    There are plenty of 996's and 986's on the road that are now 12 or 13 years old with well over 100k or even 150k MILES. There are even some who frequent the forums with near 250k miles and just regular maintenance performed, perhaps a few mechanical issues along the way. If you maintain the car properly I see no reason why it couldn't last just as long or longer.
  7. logray
    A thermostat can last a very long time. Generally speaking if it passes the boil test or there are no unusual problems with the car overheating I wouldn't mess with it. You don't need the special tool if you want to replace it. You can easily make one with a section pipe and a hack saw/dremel/maybe even a file. If you spend time with search this has been covered before. You can also purchase the complete thermostat with housing so you don't need the tool, just 4 bolts off and on. The complete unit is not a lot more expensive than just the tstat. Generally speaking if you are going to replace the tstat most people recommend going with the 160degree tstat.
  8. logray
    As a good shop mechanic or otherwise I would be concerend that doing any unauthorized work on the car would potentially void the warranty or at the very least cause an issue should this be a warranty repair. Did the dealer authorize you to do the repairs?
  9. logray
    Thanks. The tplenum can be difficult to remove. Especially if it hasn't moved in some years. The best way to tackle this... Wear mechanics gloves. Loosen only one of the clamps on one side of the plenum, doesn't matter which one. Grab the plenum and try to rotate it up and down, it might take some force to break the rubber free. One the rubber is freed, tighten that one and loosen another clamp. Repeat the twisting action to free another rubber section. Repeat, and once you've freed all of the sections that are clamped, loosen all the clamps off, then slide the rubber sleeves as far left and right as they can go. Then pull the plenum out at an angle, it will deform the rubber and allow you to pull it out at roughly a 45 degree angle. It does take a little "muscle" to get it out, but once you've done it once you'll see how it works. Installation is the reverse. Be extremely careful once you have it back on to get a good seal on both of the rubber sleeves (you can use a mirror, flashlight, and look and feel inside of the plenum to make sure there are no air gaps, then tighten the clamps). You can also help the entire procedure by heating up the engine either by driving it or artificially with a heat gun. The heat will help you move the tplenum.
  10. logray
    Hi Look right behind your psgr rear wheel, can't miss it.
  11. logray
    When you do get the time, you should considering fixing it... but it's not critical, take your time if you've plugged it off. When you remove the throttle body that will give you a good opportunity to very thoroughly clean it. Then just pull the t-plenum behind it and you can reach around to re-attach that tube.
  12. logray
    Is the noise gone when you put the stock box back in place?
  13. logray
    You can reconnect that hose "by feel" and using a mirror and light if you remove the throttle body and t-plenum just behind the T/B. Then reach into the back of the engine. There is no danger, you can drive the car without having that hose connected, although power (or engine noise) might be a little down or abnormal. Also with that hose disconnected the engine will have a small vacuum leak. You could temporarily plug/clamp the outlet circled in red to prevent the leak until you can fix it.
  14. logray
    If it were me, I would splice back together whatever wire you leeched off of in the first place (solder). Then run new wires to the fuse box area, and wire a new 12v socket there or hard wire it into an "add a fuse" in a fuse position that is unused and only turns on with the key (or you can buy one of those piggy back add a fuse links and hook up to a slot that is already populated but can handle the addtl load of the sirus, i.e. radio fuse). Be sure to use and select a short ground cable, tie it into the dash frame for example. Don't run an excessively long ground cable. From there, monitor the crusie control problem (perhaps the wiring you did is somewhow related). Sample add a fuse, just a couple bux at your local auto parts store:
  15. logray
    I had the same issue with that plastic coupling breaking when I tried to remove that hose. I had a spare hose coupler already on hand and did that with some tie wraps until I got the actual part from the dealer (a $5 part IIRC). Nice work. .... Thats the change over valve for the intake resonsance flap, operated by vacuum at different RPMs. The hose you are pointing out goes into the tube that operates the flap. The hose in green goes into item 21 in the diagram below (click link): http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/996-99-05/107-10.php
  16. logray
    I would be interested to know this as well, since it is a DFI engine there is very very little information published about this design (if any at all). However, with a 2010 model year car, why not have the car flat bedded to the dealership? I am guessing this would be covered by the warranty, since it is less than 2 years old.
  17. logray
    A worn IMS tensioner is not necesarilly considered a "weak" point of the design. They can get dirty if the oil is not kept fresh and clean. If you are religious about maintenance, many have lasted 200k plus and could last even longer. Like most cars, once they reach 100k or so and you are unsure of the service history, there are things you might want to consider doing if you plan to keep the engine for a long time, for example timing chains (and their related tensioners/etc.). There are different schools of thought on that however. Although there have been a few documented failures, there have been very few failures of the tensoiner itself. If it is dirty it will cause some more startup noise and perhaps additional paddle/chain slap, and perhaps accelerated wear of the paddle button or other parts, but I don't think it will cause a problem immediately or even in the near future. I believe failure of the paddle is more common, which in itself is not very common.
  18. logray
    It's the same tool. You can also use generic clutch disc centering tools.
  19. logray
    You can splice it with a brass hose repair kit (a couple bux) from home depot, or just go to your Porsche dealer and buy the correct new plastic thingy for a couple bux. Part number 99610622652 Or hose repair kit http://www.homedepot.com/buy/tools-hardware/air-nailers-nails/husky/5-pc-hose-repair-kit-63171.html
  20. logray
    The durametric should be able to pinpoint the fault codes where the problem is sourcing from which could be ... (in no particular order, and not complete list) alarm unit itself fuel door flap passenger comp. monitor microswitches for doors front hood latch rear engine bay latch radio ground oddments tray switch "other" It's an exercise in futility and expensive if you try to "fix" all of the above possibilities without first knowing where the faults are coming from.
  21. logray
    Yes some people just solder the resistor leads either because they are too lazy to remove the cowling or the new resistor doesn't come with an electrical connector.
  22. logray
    Nice work. Once it's on the bench, take no prisoners!
  23. logray
    Maybe try getting it out of the car, loosen the other three bolts so the whole strut drops out, then get it on a bench?
  24. logray
    Sorry not following what you mean...
  25. logray
    Hi there! The oil pressure sender is on the passenger side of the engine on top of the cam cover. Spend some time with the search, this common issue has been covered ad nauseum both here, on rennlist, and elsewhere. Cheers!
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