logray

TPMS is wireless, so I don't think the wire in question would be involved.

In the UK Autofarm and Hartech are doing things that aren't yet available in the US. Autofarm will exchange your bad crankcase with one that has been updated with nikasil sleeves (silsleeve product similar to nickies) and at standard capacity so you can use standard pistons. They also throw in rings for about $3800 OTD. This is a very good option and price if you ask me and I probably would have done this for my rebuild had it been available in the USA. IIRC Hartech can sleeve only the busted cyliners and will provide weight matched piston for the overbore... which would by far be the least expnesive route. They can also do the more expensive options. In the USA there is also SSI Performance who will do CI replacement. I consiered CI for my rebuild, but when you add in all the shipping, cost for pistons, rings, machining, etc. it wasn't much of a savings vs. the superior LNE option. If you plan to reuse your existing pistons and can get a cheap set of rings, then CI might be the cheapest route, but there is not a lot of data whether it works well or not. If you had a D-chunk failure, I would question if the pistons are fit for re-use. There have been a few people that come along and say they will rebuild the entire motor for 3 or $4k and have it last a long time. Then we never hear from them again. Go up to ebay and search for motor meister IIRC ? They claim to "rebuild" your engine for about $5000. Of course, that's if it was running fine before you send it to them. Anyhow, I'm not sure if was taken down but basically it was a total scam... there was a post here not too many months ago detailing all of the shortcuts they take.

LOL, well at least you tried. I've used a block of wood and a long pry bar to "coax" the alternator out of position. Of course you want to do this carefully as to not damage any fins or the alternator housing itself.

Hi there. The cam hold down tool you need before removing the cam cover is available here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=PEL-TOL-P253&catalog_description=Camshaft%20Securing%20Tool%20-%20Boxster%20%281997-04%29%2C%20Each (I've read that this tool may need minor modification but it does work on a 996). More about the process here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Chain_Tensioner/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Chain_Tensioner.htm Once inside the head, if you replace the actuator in addition to the solenoid, before removal you need to compress the mechanism with a threaded rod which you can make. Or alternatively, tie wraps work too.

Try looking on the individual connector for a part number, or post all the numbers you can find on it for help here. Sometimes the connectors are available for purchase individually. I've found this to be true with 3 different connectors thus far.

I have my overflow tube pointed more towards the center of the car on top of the exhaust.

If I were doing this on the cheap, I wouldn't be afraid of a used motor personally. A rebuild where you are cutting too many corners is going to cost about the same, and since you are cutting corners, you could encounter a problem sooner than if you had done it the right way in the first place (read, $$$$$$). Weighing the two options, think about it this way, the used engine has already put in XXXXXX miles and may not have been opened and could provide another XXXXXX trouble free miles. Whereas what you are trying to rebuild has encountered a big problem, which to make it right again could cost more in parts, machining, and labor to return it to the condition of a good used engine (albeit it might have some new parts inside).

I think if you use a resistor responsibly it's not too terrible an idea. For example you install the resistor along with an AFR gauge or tune it on the dyno. But as Phillip points out, I think the vast majority are going to just splice that thing in and not have any idea what it is going to do to their engine internals. Bottom line is unless you want to open a can of worms let the stock MAF and stock program handle the fuel mixture for you. Does someone really think a $70 device is going to do something better than the result of multi-millions of dollars Porsche put into R&D?

Since yours is a 2003 car there are no spark tubes to change, so I would just do the plugs and replace any coils that are cracked or don't pass the resistance tests. As for gapping the plugs you shouldn't need to gap them if they are multi ground, but they should be checked to ensure they were manufacturered correctly. I'm not sure how you could bend the prong on a multi ground plug to set the gap (I've tried and only ended up ruining a plug). So if it is not set correctly from the factory it should be replaced with another new one. If it is single ground absolutley you need to gap them properly.

This one? "95.5mm 996 Porsche water cooled cylinder set" 95.5mm is not the stock bore size (96mm is for the 996), so you would need both new custom pistons as well as rings. You also have to pay for the machining to bore the old cylinders out and have the new ones installed. LNE has a plating process on top of that. So lets say you can get new custom pistons and rings for $1500, the cylinders for $500, and then say $1000 for the machining? That's only $1k less than the LNE offering. There are a few threads on rennlist doubting the cooling and long lasting capabilities of cast iron although apparently there are a couple cars on the road and at least one company doing it (although why would someone really consider doing that versus paying only another $500-$1000 for the superior LNE offering?). If you are after a runner, just buy a used running engine. They can be had for $5k - $8k range and all you have to do is bolt it up.

Well unless someone knows what that is if you want to know you might have to look in the transmission tunnel to see where it goes.

Not from those pictures, no. Do you have the old parts to compare them with? Perhaps measure the inside diamater and depth of the inner races. I am guessing they are slightly different due to two different part numbers.

A coil pack can go at any time, but it is probably not that common unless they have been exposed to harsh environments. Actually anything electronic or mechanical can and will go bad at some point, of course not just from normal use but also from mfg. defects. I'm not sure what the MTBF is on coil packs, but I'm sure there are some that have lasted 100 miles and others 250,000 miles. Personally if the other coil packs look OK are not cracked and all ohm out OK (pass proper electrical resistance), I would just replace the one bad one. Then maybe some years down the road replace the rest.

Cracked coils can cause hestiations and misfires, especially if they are wet ot damp. Yes, don't force them. No need to twist them. They just need to be fully seated which is very difficult not to do, and do observe the tigentning specs on the coil pack bolts.

I have not heard of QSC. Do you have any links to share? Is there a reason you are not considering LNE's offering which includes the cylinders and new pistons?

Your torque wrench prob has more deg of error than 1ft lb so I wouldnt sweat the discrepancy. As for the part num. Sometimes the newer parts are better and sometimes its the same part but from a different. Mfg

Yes you can get aftermarket LED bulbs here (I have the blue): http://www.porscheleds.com 98-2001 only.

e-brake?

Remember there is a discrepancy in machining and sensors, so you are well within limits. There is only rougly 3 degrees crank difference between the two banks, which is actually only 1.5 degrees at the cam. Imagine what 1.5 degrees looks like on a 360 degree wheel. Not signifigant. In other words, there is no danger of any damage, and no reason for concern.

I wasn't aware you could remove the filter, so I've always just sucked it out as well. You can even fit one of the smaller syphon tubes into the side of the filter so it extends into the reservior, without removing the filter. +1 on going with a wrecker.

Try going anti-clockwise, so the piece on the alternator that is held by the long bolt with the idle pulley clears the mount.

Scary.

IIRC, if you read further, either in the owners manual or elsewhere, the digital display after 47 seconds is only an estimation, as that's not a signifigant amount of time for all of the oil to return to the sump. If you have a separate dipstick you can confirm this.

A MAF could be marginal and cause CEL, or even cause a pending fault which will not light the CEL, but will be stored in the DME. The engine mananement system will store a pending fault until a certain number of occcurances or situations are met, at which time it can either remove or pending fault (problem corrected itslef), or light the CEL.

There were some recent bugs in the information display sections of Durametric which I believe were fixed in the latest and greatest version. I encountered these bugs a couple times and have not with the newest version downloaded.