logray

74 should be fine, but why not back it off and torque to correct value?

"Cosmoline...keeps my rifle clean." :) The stock Porsche application of cosmoline seems to be very effective. I would suggest having it reapplied. I've stripped cosmo off of 13 years old parts and they are still as fresh and new as they were when they were installed.

Although rare, an erroneous variocam fault code can also be caused by a faulty DME. I've experienced this first hand and have also read about others who have encountered this as well.

+1 to JFPs post. This is a lot easier if you remove the throttle body and t plenum behind it. Then you can reach around with your left hand and feel the socket/extension coming in from the top. Use a wobble socket and it is a breeze.

Continuing from JFP's post above... "...Due to this I feel that adding a lightweight flywheel to any existing engine is not a wise decision, and that they should only be added when the entire rotating mass can be balanced and indexed to accomodate the lightweight unit. This means engine disassembly, so I'd only add one of these when doing one of our performance upgrades so the entire assembly can be precisely balanced." - Jake Raby from http://www.flat6innovations.com/index.php/broken-crank

Loosen off the fasteners and then reposition and retighten. It helps to have an assistant who can hold the bumper in the right place while you tighten.

No the pinouts do not match, hence extensive rewiring... best bet would be to use 99 harness on 02 engine, but still, then you are dealing with the nightmares we already talked about. best advice already given above, sell the 02 engine, source a 99-01 engine...

The cam control is going to be tricky. If you were going the other way around, then it would be more simple because the early engines are a simple on/off situation for cam advance. Going from old to new might be impossible? without a 7.8 version DME. The variable cam system in the 996 2002+ engines is continuously variable based on a variety of conditions, and is not just a simple on/off setup as it is on pre 2002 engines. Even if it runs, the car may never run quite right, or run as it should. It will certainly be down on power, not to mention probably CEL lights.

oh right, missed the part about the 2002 engine... yep you're right! Pretty much this combo will not work without extensive rewiring as you pointed out.

Electrical gremlins such as these associated with the key are usually related to a faulty ignition switch. Faulty ignition switch repair is well documented here.

If it is the DME/immo combo, I recommend sourcing a 1999 996 immobilizer/DME/key combination set that all came out of the same car. If the car is not USA, source one that is ROW. That way it should be plug and play without any programming required. If you get any other 5.2 DME, or a DME with a different immo for example from a 986 then you'll need codes which is a nightmare.

I see in your pic you left the rear bumper off. If you remove the rear bumper (which is very easy to do) then you get more clearance... then a standard floor jack and about 19" jack height in the back is all you need to roll the engine out, with the nose of the car on the ground.

Concerning the replacement of an inner (nearest transmission) CV boot on a 1987 911. For clarity, inner refers to the joint nearest the trans while outer refers to the joint nearest the wheel/stub axle. I'm a little confused as to the procedure and also which boots are replaceable, one comment from Nick @ pelican 101 projects article states the outer boot is not available, but then the article contradicts itself earlier when it says the inner CV joint is integrated and not available separately but then in the picture of the axle it says the outer. From Pelican Technical Article: Replacing CV Joints - 911 (1968-89) - 930 Turbo (1975-89)... From the article:, I believe the following statement is incorrect. "...The inner CV joints are an integrated part of the stub axle, and are not available separately..." From the top picture of the complete axle: This sounds correct to me: "...the outer CV joint is not available separately, but must be purchased as a complete axle. This is because the [outer] joint is integrated into the stub axle and cannot be separated..." From the comments: This sounds correct to me: "...I believe the article says the outer boot is not available because it is attached to the entire shaft. The whole axle should be replaced at this point. - Nick at Pelican Parts..." Also, I found this on the CV boot parts section of the pelican site here: Porsche 911 & Carrera Axles & Bearings - Page 1 "...CV Boot cracked or leaking? Replace it with a new one and keep dirt, debris and small animals out of your CV joints! The replacement process is the same as if you were removing an entire CV joint. In fact, you need to remove the joint in order to replace the boot..." Thanks in advance

You can put non-N rated tires on, don't worry about that. When I go to drivers events people run everything from hoosiers to toyos to bf goodrich... none of those carry an N rating and they are putting some extreme pressures on the tires compared with daily driving. I guess what are you looking for longevity, performance, budget, etc? Pretty much any 911 is going to burn through a set of rears in 5-20k depending on how it is driven. For longevity the michelins and bridgestones you mention are great, I've run both (the non n-rated version) and they last a long time and I have even tracked the car with them. To aid in longeivty following recommended tire pressures (which are high) and a neutral/non aggressive alignment setup helps too. I've had continentals and hated them. I've had pierrli snow and they were great in adverse conditions, but thats about it. For performance, toyo r888s or federals on the cheap. both are DOT street legal. they don't last a long time but offer 100 or below UTQG. BF goodrich/hoosier Track day only

I've got stainless headers and use the stock hardware. Works great. If you are looking for an upgrade lookup ARP fasteners.

All Lokasil cylinders (model years 98-2008) are subject to scoring, but it is not as common in early models (996 MK1). During a PPI, perform a leakdown and compression test to assess cylinder health. A bore-scope can reveal any scoring. For the IMS, I would strongly consider the IMS solution (solid bearing) versus going with the IMS retrofit. http://www.theimssolution.com/

Their prices are about $50 or more than what you can get from Sonnen or Sunset Porsche.

do a leak down and compression test. leak down should reveal where oil is getting in. also on flat sixes puff of oil on startup is normal.

When the valve job was done were the valve guides replaced and/or at least measured. Were the valves measured as well? And were the valve seals replaced? Is the oil level proper?

For dylanjl... M96/01 = 1st gen 996 3.4L water cooled 66W = 1998 911 07551 = production sequence (in the range 00501-60000) AT = rebuilt/exchanged Your S/N is in the original range, check for the presence of blue paint on the case.

Good engine serial number threads: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/39095-mismatch-engine-numbers/ http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php/topic/5353-m960-engine-sn-decoding http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/5353-m960-engine-sn-decoding/ http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/32795-engine-serial-%23s/

This is what I'm seeing, can you confirm? M96/01 66W 07551 AT

Mike Focke has a good list of dismantlers... https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/listsofsources

The above post speaks volumes. Having a clean mating surface between hub/wheel and not one done carelessly makes a big difference. If you track the car, periodically retorque the wheels. The correct torque value is in your owners manual. Contributing members can also download their owners manual. For example the 996 2003 model year is here: (same specs for all 996 cars, page 208 in the manual below). http://www.renntech.org/forums/files/file/601-my03-carrera-996-owners-manual/ I always do the following as well when having my wheels balanced. Take them to the same shop and build a reputation. I use a place that has a road force balancer. Always watch them do the work, pointing out much of the things in the above post. I remove the old weights and clean the wheels before having them balanced. This prevents careless techs from damaging your wheels. Wheels need to get balanced periodically as they wear. Carry the wheels to the techs and treat them well, and the techs will treat them the same. If they don't, find another shop. Worst case, take them to your Porsche dealer and demand the same as above, even if you pay a little more it might be worth it. I've had very competative pricing from Porsche dealers both on new tiers and the mounting/balancing.

Another thing that can cause this is improper mounting of the rim to the hub. I've had the same wobble and it has been fixed by correctly torquing the wheels. At a minimum torque the bolts in a cross pattern starting with 50% of the final value. Then go around again and apply the final value.