johnnys

Which tyre's is losting traction do you know ? is the fronts or the rears ? Also If you found my posting on tyre mixing what I did when this happend to me was to run pirrelli up front and the ps2 at the rear. This was a fantastic combination as the tyres wore at the same rate. I got 25,000km from the pirelli up front and 20K Km from the Michelin's at the rear. I have since changed to pirelli N4 which actually take the cars handling to another level. Do you have a friend who has a 996 and try swapping tyres. Even though it is the rears you replaced try swaping the fronts and you'll be pleasently surprised. If you do decide to spend some money do it progressively I.E by some pirelli's for the front first then have a drive. If that fixes the problem stay with it I drove mine with that compination for 2 years. No one including porsche could give me a reason why this would not be ok as both the tyres are n rated. Then if that doesnt work (im sure it will) then go to pirelli at the rear and keep your michelin's for the track. or sell them on the internet. or your tyre shop my buy them back. they are still worth a lot of money. Of course disconnecting the battery would not work. These are modern cars.

On the track the Michelins are fine with me too as I get them hot. It was just to keep them at the temp they like in stop start town etc driving was not safe. As for mixing the brands there has been lots of discussion on that in the forum. I have said plenty so do a seach o that topic. I can say switching or mixing will definetly not be the proplem. The only thing apart from what I have already said is your tread depth. I always carry a small tread depth indicator (most typre shops willl give you one). If the difference bewteen your new tyres and old ones is to great i.e you fronts are 2mm and you rears are 7mm you may experiance what you are discribing check it out,

I have a 2002 c4 and have always had this proplem with pilot sports(both the ps2 and the older one's. Only when I got them really hot did the taction control stop going on In the worst places i.e very gentle turns at high speed I would go over a slight bump and the tc would come on and I would be thrown off line. Its actually very dangerous.. Even thought people say they are soft (the tyre wear is 220) they are a lot harder than pirelli's (even thought the new pirelli N4's also have a wear indicator of 220 they last half as long). You wont get ride of the problem unless you switch to pirelli's which are the only tyre to have on a c4 or c4s if you drive very hard. The Michelin are a good long wearing tyre for just driving around but not for serious c4'ing.

I am sure that is a RMS leak, I.ve had eight on two engines I'd bet large sums of money on it. John

Tool Pants, Sorry it took so long replying my email notification wasnt working, Yes the tool did fit, They replaced the RMS. not the IMS(intermidiate shaft seal) and the set of three intermediate bolts (m96 03 68 4 02138) and the set of four crankcase bolts (m96 03 664 1022). So far so good ive done 3000 km and am about to go on another 3000km drive next week. The first leak happened at 10,000km the same as my first engine and the second on my first engine at 32,000 so I plan to drive as much as possible.

Well I must say my dealer (car dealer that is) is realy sticking buy me through this. I contacted the CEO and the porsche rep and they have issued me with a 12 month warranty after this last repare which I have an option to extent for basicllay as long as I wish. I am very happy with this. Thanks to Team European WGTN NZ.

Have a look or do a seach on "tyres for 996 c4" dated 29th Jan. You will se I run different tyres front and rear and no-one including Loren could give me a reason why not to. Loren said quote"guess it was a legal requirement' If you read that post you will see I run different brands front and rear and have done for 4 years. Im sure you will be ok with what you are suggesting.

O.k thanks. John

Mr P.Viby Did you get a warranty on your new engine. Your last post is hard for me to understand. Did you buy the car with the new engine in it ? I assumed you owned the car when it blew ? yes ? no ?

Scouser Why did you need a new gear box?

****. Well the new engine could well leak as well. If you leak is just a few drips then,(as I said earlier I wish I had just left my first drip as It would go away and then come back), its ok to live with and if your motor blows then get a new motor. or trade the car with them. That is one option. Or what I would do, is to force them to court by getting them to replace the engine then not paying them. This would force them to take you to court and then you could have the whole issue heard and made very public. You could counter sue them and porsche as well. Dont use a lawyer just do it your self its easy. If the first seal was done under warranty then the job was never completed. This means they have to keep at it till its done. This would be covered by some law. Just dont sign anything when you agree to having a new engine. Its the same principle they are working under by selling you a faulty car then not fixing/replacing it.

Do you know or were you told or were you give a warrenty on your new engine ?

Scoucer have you had the 4 crankcase bolts and 3 intermediate bolts replaced ???? m96 03 66 4 11022 and m96 03 68 4 02138 This was suggested in March 9 2004, My dealer now says this may have been the problem with my first motor all along. This is what they are now tring on my replacement motor.

No point placing dye in tthe Oil tool Pants as there was so much of it this time. I had just returned from a 3000km non stop run. I think the seal went at the beginning as there was so much oil inside the case (I saw it myself). P.Viby I hate the fact I have a different engine (even thought mine was also replaced at 46,000km) as now no one seems to want to buy the car. people who are not technically savvy are scared off when you say oh it has a new motor. They get the impression something is wrong with the car(they are right of course). Also as far as collecting cars matching numbers is important.

:clapping: Well Ive just searched this site back to 2002. Just when Scouser had his very first leak up to Rob in WA. I may be the first person to have a leak in a replacement engine. I think I should be made a life member of the RMS Club. I have a 996 c4 2002. First leak 10K then 32K then 38K then 45K then 45.5K. At which point my service manager refused to replace another seal as the last replacement leaked after 500 Km. SOOOO I got a new (replacement engine). This was even though the tool fitted. Well I decided based on experience I better put at least 20K on the clock before the 12 month warrenty runs out and low and behold at 10K a massive leak. Not just the little drips like before. Im now told about the "BOLT PROBLEM" this was never addressed on my other leaks. Maybe my first engine never had a RMS leak at all but it was the bolts. On my original engine the first leak I had was just a drip or two then for a month or so nothing then another drip or two. I actually wish now I had just lived with it as things just are getting worse. I hate the fact I dont have the original engine in my car. My dealer is being very helpful and will warrent the motor for another 12 months from now so now I have the horrible task of driving another 20K at least as soon as possible. Actually my car has just about never been out of warrenty. I also have another question for anyone. Im told my clutch is nearly worn out and I was told it would be wise to replace it not while the gear box is out. My reply to that of course was I can allways do it when the next Seal fails! the question is how long should a clutch last. Ive done 58,000 kms now is that normal (that I think about 35000 mls)?????? Anyone know ?