juniinc

she is half naked

Wow what u said was strictly referring to me, I guess what can't you believe about my comment about head gasket? "why do some people always look for the most serious problem"- I'll take that as why does JUNIINC? LOL It's not that I always look for the serious problem, but I do try to find every possible cause. what? you don't think 986's gasket can ever go out or cold air should be blowing when the gasket is blown? Maybe I just didn't realize that it was a major crime to be checking something simple <_< . I really wasn't stating that the gasket was blown,just hoping to see it wasn't ,,,as a matter of fact that I've seen a couple cases in the past. Perhaps if u ever see it happen, U might be able to believe it,,, hey dedes, like Glyn said it might be something simple such as Inside temp-Sensor mounted in the aspirator assembly at the side of the dash/Temperature mix Flap command/Temperature mix Flap position,,,let's do this- There is a HIDDEN 986 AC DIAGNOSCTICS you can perform simply. since your car is 98 this should work. The AC Climatronic unit is actually manufactured by Audi. There is some sort of serial data stream (not CAN) that allows the AC unit to display engine parameters. This works on 1997-2000 boxsters. To access diagnostics: Hold down the Recirculating & Air up buttons for 5 seconds. The + - buttons go up and down through the list of "c" codes. The center vent button switches the left display between the "c" code and its actual value. Press the Auto button to exit.

do u smell any odor of anti freeze inside the cabin? cause leaky heater core can cause this. also when u check the dip stick ,to see white foamy residue(mixed w/ water) + start the car with coolant resirvore cap open to see there are any bubbles.

have u pulled the dip stick? Oil is full Engine temp is normal 180

I hope , your head gasket isn't blown. have u checked your engine oil recently? most likely, the heater core needs to be replaced

I would usually start from where this specific circuit (cluster) has originated, but u've already said the fuse is fine. I took a glance at a wiring diagram for this for a few minutes, LCD & analog are fed off of a same circuit - so we can kind of narrow it down that power is fine. So I'm thinking fault is occurring between the switch assem ~ cluster terminal. But there are 2 separate switched hot legs(12V+)1 for the DIMMED LCD + 1 for the DIMMED BULB. Probably why ur lcd is still working. U might need to remove the cluster, terminal 58D is the DIMMED LAMP BULB(GR/BL wire) junctioned with cigg lighter,ash tay,radio,AC control... etc,,, First step would be to see if those etc,,, lights working?

hey dedes, I was referring to heater vent

fan isn't working ,or ?

autozone

LOL. I agree, they shouldn't have done it. what a terrible location for stereo wire to be sliced. Pobably it was done by some swapmeet place, Im thinking. Be sure to apply some electric grease to prevent + a thin bid of silcone caulking along the seam,,,

996 106 901 00

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If u are removing the seat, try not to unplug the wiring hardness. u should have enough wire slack to rest your seat out side.

I'm not sure if ur asking or telling but Nope, alarm module is pretty big it will never fit under the lever, under the seat.

sorry to tell U,but it is your alarm control module! U think its coming from the hood release lever, because M535 is located right next to it(a few inches apart)! OK Loren I fixed it.

just not used to UK terms(boot catch?), LOL It's coming from your arlarm module dont even mess with the hood release!

Yes this can be expensive & time consuming. You should get it out, dry it first.

With a blown fuse, your Central locking + interior lights shouldn't be working at all, so probably fuse is OK. I highly doubt it's the wiring, too many zones are occurring. as PK mentioned , maybe its wet under the seat. You should feel very lucky since its working partially. damaged alarm module can be a nightmare.

U will need a small electrician's fish tape!

most likely, tiptronic comp.

Hey Hung,Are U goint do the install urself?

Good point! Nope I don't think so brake performance is same if not any better,,,thanks Hung I agree. The squeaking is NOT from the friction surfaces so chamfering or filing down the pads will do nothing for you. The outside surfaces of the pads are not perfectly parallel with the piston surfaces so when you brake and they engage, they squeak. Having a thin cushion between them (as juniinc stated) is the only way to prevent squeaks. My question is doesn't this layer make your brakes less responsive by being squishy? Isn't the reason we bleed the brakes is to remove air and make the brakes less squishy? Hung

Time for U2 to check the door micro switches? I've seen 2 cases thay were related to this. Alarm was tripping like this so we end up replacing the micro switch.

Good call! wvicary stay away from 7,000 RPM

LOL I need to pay more attetion at what i'm reading that's the stock dual mass flywheel. i was referring to the aftermarket aluminum ones.