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juniinc

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Everything posted by juniinc

  1. juniinc
    i think we are talking about 2 different cables here. I know many of us has experienced & there are a few methods out there,,, I don't know about many of U out there but I can't never find the emergency cable on mine. So the easiest way for me is what car1tb mentioned - steer all the way to the left, stick ur right hand into the left fender(US driver'side, pull the quarter inch cable inside the fenderwell.
  2. juniinc
    18mm should work, especially if it's a non S. chosing a wheel spacer, i only trust the H&R . They only make 18mm? i believe pm me if u need any longer bolts.
  3. juniinc
    I would pull the engine oil dip stick to see any residue, check the coolant resirvor if it's foamy. but most definately u will need to pull the plugs out, run a compression test.
  4. juniinc
    I've removed many factory radios, envelope knife works for me everytime.
  5. juniinc
    I would throw those on ,so wheels can be perfectly balanced. M6 x 19mm.
  6. juniinc
    Thanks JP! Im back now, man . I 'll give u a call then we can prolly do your window like next weekend?
  7. juniinc
    possible voltage regulator failure?
  8. juniinc
    Thanks speedster! yup many ppl like em,,, yup I could've gotten something bigger but then I 'll have to modify my S front grill. Yes , it would be cool to have matching led front signals.
  9. juniinc
    those amplified kenwood 6" are more like midwoofers, if uguys ask me,,,hahah dash will probably shake/ vibrate like crazy,,, you could monut one in the passenger foot well. Sony,kicker make some shallow monut 8" subs that will require mounting depth of 2.8 inches plus back(3/4")+front panel(3/4") thickness. So we are talking almost 5" compensation on the bottom shallow side then It will have to gradually get wider. Probably the biggest reason I went for a center mount, my girl is only 5'7'' OK 5'11'' with her spear heels on but she wasn't even be able to sit in it. More than anything those shallow subs just doesn't sound like A real sub with huge DVC. I would never mount a real sub woofer on the door unless there is a special speaker enclosure/pod added on. You prolly won't see a high-end/professionally done 986/911 door sub -job either. Visit a few high end stores- CAR TOYS, CUSTOM F/X listen to what experts has to say about ,,,,, air volumes, tuning ports,air movement,sealed,ported
  10. juniinc
    Thanks Maurice . both my babies are beautiful! :D and a perfect house to go with em? Nice photo! Regards, Maurice.
  11. juniinc
    early in my post I mentioned a beatiful girl being next to me?
  12. juniinc
    single DIN motorized DVD players & double DIN touch screens, they will both work for a 986. I decided to go with single DIN motorised screen + single DIN DIVX/MP4 player.
  13. juniinc
    Autozone or schuck's should be able to run some test . I highly doubt it's the altornator. I'm thinking maybe old battery or the voltage regulator,,,
  14. juniinc
    Yup good pointer there Maurice mentioned. I would check the fuse under the seat first,,, I just did one the other day, usually 9mm? socket will work .if u aint got no torx socket. I usually leave the seat in the car, just fold it then tilt the back. U will be able to access the alarm module.
  15. juniinc
    They look pretty cool- at least the best virsion of LED's out there available. I almost bought those tail lights, before I customized mine. since us having a black car I would probablly smoke the whole thing. my sub enclosure is 100% fiberglass built. First u will need to form the back panel, since rear engine cover has a little contour to it. then build U a speaker/pod ring stablize it, by using some sort of stretch meterial(fabric) , sevral coats of fiber resin , bondo,sand,paint,mount the sub! go search 1 of my topic New Stereo System Upgrade,,, a few photos there. Let me know if u have any further question by the way front led's flashing idea was a good one, I'm kinda debating.
  16. juniinc
    They look pretty cool- at least the best virsion of LED's out there available. I almost bought those tail lights, before I customized mine. since us having a black car I would probablly smoke the whole thing. my sub enclosure is 100% fiberglass built. First u will need to form the back panel, since rear engine cover has a little contour to it. then build U a speaker/pod ring stablize it, by using some sort of stretch meterial(fabric) , sevral coats of fiber resin , bondo,sand,paint,mount the sub! go search 1 of my topic New Stereo System Upgrade,,, a few photos there. Let me know if u have any further question by the way front led's flashing idea was a good one, I'm kinda debating.
  17. juniinc
    You are welcome Chris, haha Yes my sub puts out massive bass for a 8inch . I fabricated from the scratch. Im about 6 feet and it doesnt get in my way at all. ok, thanks for not answering. you forced me to search for your LED post. ;) http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=18042 so know i see why you did it. i do kinda like it, and it does kinda look 997 turbo-ish. i think that you should disable the headlight pod turn signals (or just remove the bulbs) and make the LEDs flash for turn signals. that would be awesome! and it should be pretty easy to do! but i am still interested in knowing about your sub. maybe i should search for that too. ;)
  18. juniinc
    As some of U already know, I'm pushing 1100 RMS WATTS in my 986. buy a real amp, something like HIFonics? haha Many ppl underestimate the factory door speakers. I think they sound pretty good, especially when they are in its original factory tuned enclosure - in fact when I fed true 70 RMS watts, they were one of the best mid woofers I've heard. Sometimes going with a pair of custom door baffles can actually sounds worse than your factory set up. it is extremely hard to seal the door no matter what you do to it. Even if u do seal it U still dont want too much air movement to rattle your door,window. So we often build a custom speaker enclosure/pod.
  19. juniinc
    Since your mechanic said that power was good, it is probably OK. hopefully its some sort of fuse problem if not,,, CR220 will need 2 power sources - 1 constant power for your clock,memory + 1 ignition switched power then the BRN ground. U might want to meter those wires.
  20. juniinc
    Yes Chris, pretty much everything U said above. LED wasnt too much brighter , I couldn't even tell if they were regular bulbs or LED's ok, so it sounds like they fit and work. what do you mean you can't notice the difference? do you mean you can't notice the difference compared to a normal non-LED bulb? regarding the AutoZone bulbs, what do you mean you couldn't really tell even in the dark? do you mean the bulbs were not bright enough? or that you couldn't tell that they were LED? sorry, i'm a little slow today... ;)
  21. juniinc
    Any time! sounds like U got it all fugured out. But I wouldn't use the toggle on the ground side, just because it isn't too good to leave the contant(+) connected without being grounded. Thanks for the info! I actually got the info directly from the guy who started spreading this mod on 6speedonline and rennlist... Here it goes from my post at 6speedonline. http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=120586 If we break down the relay slots 30 = 12V hot constant 87 = takes slot 30 and sends it to the device 86 = Switched power which in this case will get triggered due to coolant temperature 85 = Is the ground for 86 So the original mod creator told me to put a wire into slot 85 for both relays #20 and #22 connect that to one side of the switch. Next side of the toggle switch will then be used for the ground. Call me paranoid, I just don't like seeing my gauge get in the middle of 8 and 0. From my past experiences when dealing with OBDII based motors is that the computer will start retarding ignition timing a few degrees once it goes past 200*F. More so when your past 210*. So cooler motor=more ignition=more ignition=more power (well not really but more power then what it could be if it was running colder).
  22. juniinc
    no problem with mine, but U cant really noticed the difference. Yes, they do have small enough LED's for the 5007. Infact I purchased a set from AUTOZONE($13.95) but couldn't really tell even in the dark, so I ended up taking em back but I guess LED will last forever? juniinc, it seems that the 1156 can substitute for the 7506. did you have any fitment and/or power problems, or did you just plug it in and it worked? i remember once trying to fit an 1156 or 1157 into the bulb holder, and on one of them (i can't remember which) the metal 'nubs' didn't line up correctly with the bulb holder. so i wanted to see if you had this issue with the 1156 or if it just worked perfectly. i see that the 1156 can also substitute for the 5007. but in the Boxster's rear lenses, you need to use a 5007 because a 7506/1156 won't fit thru the bulb hole. i wonder if this LED bulb is small enough to fit through the 5007 hole in the rear lenses. i suppose you could Dremel the 5007 hole a little bigger if so inclined. ;)
  23. juniinc
    I dont think anyone's ever done this. But that doesn't mean it can't be done? HAHA I don't really understand why either,but who cares? anyhow I looked at a few pages(for 2000 model),,,, It seems like what U are doing is shorting out 2 circuits together. When 2 circuits are blown at the same time, most likely 2 circuits are making some kind of contact(short). There are 2 steps of realys for each COOLING WATER BLOWER 1 & 2 .If we are on the same page - All u will need to do is bypass the 2steps relay. leave the 86 alone, U do not want to touch those but 87 is the switched leg powers up the fan motor - one is YLW,GRN/the other YLW,BLU. And relay contact 30 is your primary(power) side - RED/BLK , so therefore we will need to make a jumper between 30 to 87 then your cooling blowing motor should come on. Now all u need to do is throw a single pole toggle switch. Good luck!
  24. juniinc
    driver's side seat belt receptacle,,,or seat had been removed & unplugged rescently?
  25. juniinc
    Hey lucky, U probably noticed how my headlights are coated with a transparent paint. So I don't think u can't really tell cal-motor is who i got all my interior, trunks, license LED's from... good pricing and shipping IMO... just wondering what the turn signal looks like w/ the LED if yo uhave pics or video:)
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