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ALEV8

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Everything posted by ALEV8

  1. ALEV8
    Mechanic couldn't get the bearing centered and gave up after two tries and failures. Pretty sure he screwed up two of the bearings and the new boots. Doesn't seem that hard to me but I went ahead and ordered the reman unit from Vertex. I lost money on the parts from ECS however all my labor is comped for this job and the previous vacuum line install behind the engine cowl. Still seems like a very straightforward job and my mech talked me out of getting the entire driveshaft reman and swapping it out in the first place. So he was wrong.
  2. ALEV8
    Wonder if the reman shafts get balanced again?
  3. ALEV8
    Looks like there is a boot on the CV which needs replacing and my indy wants to balance the shaft after all. I've not seen a CV boot mentioned in any of the DIY articles....anyone?
  4. ALEV8
    Replacing center bearing and flex disc on my 04CTT. Should the shaft be rebalanced before reinstalling it? Don't want to spend extra money on this but not sure it's necessary. I did not have a catastrophic failure of the shaft.
  5. ALEV8
    Finally have parts in hand to replace vac line assembly at booster and am thinking how to tackle this as most of the line seems buried behind a covered cowl. Before I blindly tear into the engine covers, etc. has anyone done this already? My thought is let my mechanic do it and break all the aged fasteners and lines. From what I can tell there's no way to get to the booster vac line assy without removing the windshield wipers and lifting the cowl cover straight off...... Anyone? Recommendations?
  6. ALEV8
    Yep the second one is what I need. ECS has good prices too. Has anyone installed one?
  7. ALEV8
    Well mine is at the Indy now and there's a leak at the cowl, which I'm assuming means the firewall, in the hose running to the booster itself. Looks like a straight piece terminating at the booster pressure sensor from the diagrams I've studied. Anyone replace this one yet? If so please indicate p/n. I've already replaced everything on the passenger side connecting to the pump and the air box as I stated earlier in this thread....
  8. ALEV8
    My mechanic wants right at $1800 to replace vac line at firewall running to booster, new FLCA arms and alignment after.....crazy. I know I can do the arms myself and Turbo S arms are about $500 and change. Do I wait until a fuel pump dies if they aren't holding pressure after shutdown or what? I have already completely replaced the vac line part connecting to pass side airbox and the vac pump itself. Not sure how bad it is to diy the vac line to booster itself....anyone? $1800 seems absurdly high and this dude is a master but this isn't rocket surgery....
  9. ALEV8
    If it's below 12.7 with the car off it is dead. Replace it.
  10. ALEV8
    Well the rear hatch color doesn't match the car. 04 paint won't match '14 paint they said.......Might just be the light since it's not sunny today BUT the hatch is def not square to the body and the glass hatch is too high in its frame. Gap on right side of rear hatch from tail lamp on down is way bigger than the drivers side..... And the bottom of the hatch is a hair above the rear bumper, sits waaaay too low.....actually looks like **** if you ask me... I'm taking the car back next week for a redo. Kind of amazed given the work this guy does and has done for us in the past.
  11. ALEV8
    I have this dip when I stop as well as after I start the car. It rarely starts on the first try. I have brand new plugs and coils but my battery died after sitting about 2 weeks so it's likely needing replacement. My idle is a bit nervous as well. I'll check my hoses you pointed out. Great thread!
  12. ALEV8
  13. ALEV8
    **** on an 04 Turbo! My rear hatch is toast, bumper ruined, mufflers smashed in and USAA is saying 3k$. Obviously a supplement or 5 will be written once my guy unbuttons the rear. Hope the wiring harness isn't damaged, or something hidden that's awful. The "like new used parts" bs even a great co like USAA tries to pull is scandalous. They do allow my old German master body man to reject any reconditioned part instantly, which he will. Dude is tough as nails as easily a top of the resto and bodywork game skilled craftsman. The Porsches he has in his shop are amazing.
  14. ALEV8
    Somewhere near 7$k I think but no airbags....
  15. ALEV8
    My pristine previously small female-driven, no kids in ever, fourth car CTT 04 (122k) was smacked bad by a Dodge Ram last week. Could be a total loss, but maybe not. Rear hatch is done, rear bumper is done, exhaust is pushed in and crooked, tail lights seem to have squished into their rear fender recesses more.... As hard as the guy hit me I now have the brake booster pump running continuously while I'm driving. Hope some brittle pieces of vac hose or t joints didn't finally shatter from the collision. Estimator coming tomorrow. Wish us luck. I do not want to try and replace this beauty with what even my awesome insurance company (USAA) is gonna want to give me....
  16. ALEV8
    Indy can't come see me until Monday. I checked the fuse for the vacuum pump and it's fine. Vac pump runs perfectly on startup and stops after about 30 seconds. No sucking or hissing sounds detectable with engine running. Maybe shut the engine off and listen for noises coming from the vacuum line area next? I'll also check the line behind the pump, and tee lines at firewall and beneath the torque mount, although I think I replaced these as part of the full hose assembly replacement earlier in the year.
  17. ALEV8
    Well the fault has returned. I gave the vacuum lines a cursory look and didn't see anything split. Also I replaced the bulk of those lines with the new part as in the beginning of the thread. Going to take it to the independent now..... Dear Jesus.....
  18. ALEV8
    Pelican parts forum suggested GUNK as well. Need to get some if it'll cut through the old oily spray buildup.
  19. ALEV8
    I'll look at it.
  20. ALEV8
    I'm embarking on cleaning off the old gunk sprayed up the engine front which is leaking from somewhere, my best guess is before I replaced the hose running to the drivers side intercooler, the seal was gone and oil was seeping there and sprayed the engine. I recall about a cup of oil dumped out when we changed that hose last summer. I think it's dripping again and need to figure out where this leak is AND I want to clean up the gunk so I can spot the leak. What does Porsche recommend for degreasing and cleaning this engine? I think it a job for my make ready pro at the dealer who details my CTT and not my Indy mechanic who will start blasting with Brake Kleen.....can anyone share their experience with this and that intercooler hose/ seal failing? Barring turbo blow by I realize the CTT does collect oil there from the PCV....I also will add the vehicle does not consume much oil, perhaps ONE quart between yearly oil changes. Can any of you pros weigh in and help a nervous father out? I'm concerned about my CTT and have a new baby boy, medical expenses etc. and don't want to let this CTT go. I love the size and power and versatility and don't want anything else.
  21. ALEV8
    Wheels off today checked both visually and there's barely any wear on rotor or pads. I cannot measure runout as I don't have a gauge. This shuddering came on very suddenly this summer. Makes me think it is the front lower control arms...likely will need a pro to look rather than start replacing parts wildly nilly...
  22. ALEV8
    I'm experiencing shuddering while braking highway speeds. Just started about in June. So I bought some new front rotors. When I went to install the rotors I noticed that the current ones looked brand-new, and when I measured them with a caliper they are the same thickness almost as the brand-new rotors which have arrived from centric. Maybe it's the pads, or should I just do both and shut up? I just can figure out why after two years I have shudder and the **** rotors are so close to new.... At a loss here.
  23. ALEV8
    I think I have a victim tracked down. Just need to save up for the Durametric.
  24. ALEV8
    Harbor Freight sells a quite competent fuel-pressure kit for around $35. The investment is only one time, and the kit can be used many times. It will be WAY less then having a mechanic do the test.You're speaking my language here.......
  25. ALEV8
    That's the next move. Seemed really easy if one had the gauges. Just screw on there at the rail...check at 5-10 min intervals!
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