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p0rsch3
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yeah I'm not familiar with that, post up a pic!
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bigrob- You'll have a very difficult time using nuts / bolts since it is very tough to reach up under the lower apron underside (where you are attaching the screws to). Remember, the lip has 3M tape and it sticks very well. The large scews would take an immense amount of force to pull out. If you want to feel more secure, put some epoxy on the screw threads before screwing in and then coat the top of screw / washer with epoxy. On the fender edges of the lip, just cut them to fit as in my pic above. It sort of tucks in nicely on it's own. Have fun!
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You know, it just might. The underside of the 996 front is similar both pre and post facelift. Look under your pcar bumper and compare it to my pics in this thread. I'd say worst case you'd have to trim off a bit more from each end if it overhangs into the front wheel wells. Very worst case it will not work at all and you have to mail it back, so for "trying" it would cost you the shipping. - That is the risk I took when I first guessed it might work on my pcar.
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Thanks and I agree 100%. Hopefully some of the other members here will chime in-
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Ok here is another question- When you have the clutch replaced by the dealer (assuming normal wear), do they commonly replace the flywheel at the same time? Or is it just the clutch, pressure plate, release bearing?
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Phillip- I agree and this is why I am a bit burned up by the issue. I know some folks don't know how to drive clutch and it is possible to burn it in short order, but this car has been babied and driven right since day 1. Since it's a cab it will never see track time. I suppose I am looking for some cases of precedence, I can't be the only one who has come across this particular issue. I was also specifically told that the clutch itself is perfectly fine, and the issue relates strictly to the flywheel.
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Hi Loren- I don't have any record of previous repairs on this issue, basically I had brought it in a few times before to have them take a look at the noise- But it was not doing it at the time so they never did any paperwork. Only last week when I brought it in were they able to reproduce the noise, keep the car for a few days and give me a diagnosis. So I *just* got more info after speaking to PNA a few minutes ago. An area porsche tech came out to look at my car while it was at the dealership. He stated that he had seen this issue before and the pilot bearing in the flywheel is bad. His recommendation to the dealership was to replace the entire flywheel / clutch assembly. PNA told me that all bearings on the car are considered a "wear item" and are not covered, and also that a pilot pearing is part of the clutch and not covered. -Even if my clutch shows no signs of undue wear and the bearing itself is defective, I have to pay for it. Does this sound right?? Oh and definitely I have been very civil, followed all sugested protocols and fully explained the history. Still no love, PNA is basically saying I am s.o.l..
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Question for Loren or anyone else with intimate knowledge of Porsche's warranty process. I have a 2006 C2 with 19k miles on it. I have been reporting a squeak/honking sound from the rear of car since the car had 16k miles on it. It is sort of a low pitched honk sound, rather than a high pitched squeak and only occurrs when fully engaging clutch in 1st when taking off from a stop. And, it only makes the sound after the car is hot from driving around for a bit. Anyway, all other times I brought it in it to dealer was not doing it regularly enough to make a diagnosis. Now it is. I was instructed by my dealer that the flywheel bearing might be bad and they need to replace the flywheel. They also told me that my clutch is not worn / still feels like new. Now the kicker is, I was told the flywheel is not covered under warranty and I would have to pay $3800 for a new clutch and flywheel. My fight here is, (a) they told me the clutch is not worn and ( B) this seems like a defective item issue. For example, if I have a defective brake rotor it is covered under warranty even though it is part of the "wear item" brake assembly. This (to me) would appear to be the case with the flywheel. I did not want to say yes to the expensive out of pocket repair without first investigating, as this does not seem like an issue caused by "normal wear". The dealer told me to pick up my car and then call PNA to open a case (which I have done). Any insight on how to proceed is appreciated.
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ok I just got it done- what a total pain changing the faces! The clock and trip counter knobs pull straight off. they are press-fit. The plastic cover on the gauges is a hassle to free up due to inner locking tabs on the top of the silver cover. You'll need to pry around with a small screwdriver to get the center top portion of the cover off. The needles are press-fit so you just have to make sure they are at "0" when you take them off and put them back on. You'll need to use two small screwdrivers under the head of the needle to "pop" them up and then pull straight off with fingers. It is not a task for the faint of heart, becuase if you pry crooked you'll break the needle shaft... Then, after needles are off you have to pry out the little black locking circles that go around the needle hole. These black snap-in circles hold down the OEM gauge faces. You'll need a sharp dental pick to get under the rim and twist them out. When they pop out, they fly 5 feet. Again, not for the faint of heart. This was like brain surgery- you have to be very precise and very careful. I don't think I would do it again.
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Does anyone know how to remove the clock and trip odometer button tips on the gauge pod? that is holding me up from pulling apart the gauge pod. I can't see how to take off the knob tips.
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pull them off. nothing specific. here is cayenne info that comes with gemballa faces. Thanks buddy- I couldn't confirm whether 997 is same as CTT, tried calling / emailing Gemballa and no one responds.. If I feel brave today I might give it a shot. the instructions seem kind of retarded- looking at #5, it says "turn needles to left until stop then pull up" - but the arrow shows turning to right! Also, not all of the needles can go left because of their arrangement, for example the oil pressure gauge on right side (997). Did you find the instructions odd and do something different?
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Anyone come across specific info on removing the needles yet?
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Well, your pcar looks just awesome as-is so I would't sweat it Hey PORSCH3 .... your DIY thread is a gift that's keeps on giving fifteen months later. I'm ordering the same lip from Suncoast Fla. and will be using your gift to complete the install. Thanks! Sam Awesome- post up some pics when you are done!
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Mike - thanks for the pics. Any info by chance on how to remove the gauge needles? I have heard that you must turn the needles counter-clockwise and pull to remove, and re-installing is the reverse, but this is unconfirmed information.
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I just bought this 2006 CAB S Dark Olive metallic 22K miles with CPO for $75,000 from dealer. Full Leather Cocoa and Cocoa Top NAV BOSE Just out of curiosity, is there any reason you guys that are sharing photos etc. aren't doing it on 6speedonline or Rennlist forums where these types of posts get much more visibility? I view RennTech as a more technical discussion forum. Just my 2 cents. I think sharing everywhere is good. However, I do tend to post more of the car photos on 6speed.