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laalves
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About laalves
- Birthday 01/07/1970
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As I'm used to metric, I converted the values above. So for the doors, 0.14 cf is about 4 liters. Feels about right, however when you mention 3 cf for the 13WS, that's almost a 60 liter box! That would be a monster sub box to have in a car and for a 13in driver. Went back to my archives and the recommendation is actually 3 to 7 liters, which means that the Bose original box is not bad. 13WS datasheet.pdf 13WS product sheet.pdf
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If your car is MY2003 and later then it is a MOST bus car, i.e., the audio units, radio, CD, amps, communicate with each other using fiber optics. That box is a MOST bus interface for the PCCM+ to be able to communicate with the amps. All MY2003+ cars need that box.
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Turbos did not have that. That's only for halogen lights cars (only non-Turbo/non-GT2) until MY00 with the M605 option. The little wheel that went into the place of that cover is 996 613 230 01 A01, Potentiometer, headlight levelling system.
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For quite some time the feel of my brake pedal (02 TT) doesn't feel right, spongy and easy to reach the bottom. Stopping power feels ok, but need to go deep on it. Brakes were just bled at the dealer, no change in the feel. I didn't discuss any of this with them, as I'm used to do all my corrective maintenance and only let them do the minimal scheduled so as to have the stamps on the book. Having another person pressing the pedal whilst I look at the Master Cylinder/booster/ABS pump area, engine off, there's lots of unexpected noises: clear spring noises coming from inside the MC and bubbly/squishy noises that appear to come from the lines going into the main ABS controller unit. No leaks are visible anywhere. No bubbles are visible on any of the unions. Another thing that has puzzled me for a while, is the appearance of drops of hydraulic fluid on the surface of the fluid reservoir. Some ends up collecting in the channel surrounding the reservoir. It's as if it is leaking through the cap, although I have replaced it with a brand new OEM cap. The level of the reservoir does not go down with time, never had to top it with fluid. Anybody had any of these symptoms? I'm tempted to either replace the MC (750€, not a trivial cost) or to take it out, open it and check the seals. Not sure about this option either because I may end up buggering a good and expensive thing and not solving the problem.
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Secondary Air System Help, P0491/492 error
laalves replied to Redstick's topic in 996 TT, 996 TT S, 996 GT2
I also had both for years. I did an overhaul of my SAI system during the COVID lockdown, replacing both of the 20-year old diverter valves with 710P from a VAG dealership (one of them did not hold any pressure), replaced all Pierburg electrovalves, Ts, Ys, Xs unions and some of the piping. Result: P0491 disappeared, P0492 still there. I can hear the pump working at startup, testing it with Durametric works fine, so that shouldn't be it. Still scratching my head, but truth be told, I haven't done a leak check yet (which I should have done first) but already got the plugs to do it, just need to find the time. -
996 seat heating elements in 997 foldable seat
laalves replied to laalves's topic in 996 TT, 996 TT S, 996 GT2
Sorry, nope, at the bottom of my list of priorities at the moment... -
996 seat heating elements in 997 foldable seat
laalves replied to laalves's topic in 996 TT, 996 TT S, 996 GT2
Actually, haven't got'round doing this yet. -
If you are even considering that, that's because you don't really like the car and should sell it. To me. For cheap.
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Here's official information for the US: https://www.nhtsa.gov/equipment-deta...643749#recalls Quite a few interesting technical details.
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Warning - safety issue Ohlins coilovers 996TT/4S
laalves replied to laalves's topic in 996 TT, 996 TT S, 996 GT2
Here's official information for the US: https://www.nhtsa.gov/equipment-deta...643749#recalls Quite a few interesting technical details. -
Please see my post here:
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Warning - safety issue Ohlins coilovers 996TT/4S
laalves posted a topic in 996 TT, 996 TT S, 996 GT2
Just read this: Safety problem with Ohlins R&T on 996 turbos - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 996 Turbo Forum - Safety problem with Ohlins R&T on 996 turbos - Just saw this on Facebook, sent an email to Ohlins EU and they... I bought mine on 06/2018 from design911.com and installed them on 09/2018. No problems since and very happy with their performance but now I’m concerned. Design911 confirmed this to me today but they have no further details. Also wrote to Ohlins directly but had no replies yet. Will post this in the Carrera forums as well because of the 4S guys. -
Sorry, but i have to insist. Cars are not designed that way, they do not draw from the battery at idle, batteries would not last through a single winter of urban traffic jams as they would never be recharged after they started the engine. There's no point in continuing this discussion.
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Family in new car, dead winter, night, snow storm. Car goes off-road and gets stuck in snow in the middle of nowhere. Car is idling, heater at max, radio playing, headlights on, window defrosters on. Alternator not putting out enough current and needs to draw current from the battery to keep everything running, "as designed". After a couple of hours, battery dies and the engine follows suit. Family dies. Manufacturer says: "Tough luck, car was working as designed". Doesn't happen in a car working to spec.
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Sorry, that cannot happen in a modern, well functioning car. If it were, cars would not idle for long. Battery would be depleted and there would not be enough current to keep the car running. If they had big aftermarket amplifiers then that surely can happen. Stock consumers, that doesn't happen. That's why the bassbombing crews install bigger alternators, bigger batteries and capacitors to increase available current reserve to feed the monster subs. To have all that working properly, it may even require an ECU remap to compensate for increased idle torque due to the bigger alternators. That's what they do in police cars. As the loads increase, the regulator compensates the voltage drop by letting more current flow through the exciter which in turn increases the magnetic force generated by the field, hence causes more drag on the engine and the ECU injects more fuel to compensate for the added necessary torque. Engine RPM changes little, output torque increases what is required to put out more current. There is no way to properly test an alternator in the car, only in a bench, there's no way to cycle it to max load and back in the car.
