jasper

Hows this for a test: Removed the actuator rod from the slave. Pushed the piston all the way in and inserted a 3/8" punch into the piston where the rod normally rides. clamped the system so that the piston can't move out when the clutch pedal is depressed. Go inside the car and tried to press down the clutch pedal and it moved about an inch and stopped. I pushed pretty hard - but not enough to blow the seals obviously. Seems to me the hydraulics are good. What say you? Anyone?

OK after a real check I can report that the piston can be pushed all the way in, with considerable pressure required from the heel of my hand. I can also report that when I reach up and in to the bell housing I can move the throwout lever quite a few milimetres with no resistance whatsoever (it flops around) but that I can not depress the clutch diaphragm springs. Not a fair test though..I have no leverage whatsoever of the clutch diaphragm from where I was lying on the floor. Please keep comments coming!

Thanks - will try this again and report back. I pushed the piston in last night, but not all the way. I could feel only light spring tension. I didn't get in far enough to push against the hydraulics. I note that the hydraulics are good enough to allow me to select gears, and that this pressure remained good enough that I could select gears even after some time had passed. God forbid I have to bolt the slave back up and try bleeding the system.

2002 996 C2 190,000 km Driving home two days ago in traffic. Go for shift from first to second, clutch pedal drops to floor sharply, gear engages but balks hard, clutch pedal comes back to top position weakly as if actuated only by the helper spring. I manage to get home - making total of two dozen or so more shifts, each shift is the same, light clutch pedal pressure on way down, balks hard going into gear, clutch pedal only comes up about half way, then spring up the rest of the way - as if the clutch helper spring is doing the work. No slippage detected, although I used only first and second gear so no lugging. Very difficult, but not impossible to select first while stopped at traffic lights. History wise - a factory reman engine was installed by a dealer under warranty at 70,000 km (long before I owned it). There is no record of new clutch being installed at that time but I have to assume that one was. The clutch has been behaving well up to that point. No slippage or chattering detected prior to failure. No leakage detected at either the master or slave, the reservoir level is much higher than the clutch hydraulics line offtake and it has not moved. I am trying to rule out hydraulics because I need a reason to drop the transmission so I can replace the IMSB. A friend lost a motor last week and I'm feeling nervous. I started a thread over at Rennlist to document this job but I can't get cleanly past the first step - ruling out the hydraulics. Thread is here: http://forums.rennli...retty-sure.html The car is in the air, belly pans are off, and I've removed the clutch slave from the transmission, hydraulic lines are still connected. There is no fluid behind the boot on the slave. I am able to push the slave piston in by hand - it gives light spring pressure only. I have not tried to push it all the way in. Before I removed the slave I had a helper press the clutch pedal in and out. With my ear to the bulkhead I could a rushing/wooshing fluid noise as he did so. I also verified that only the clutch helper spring is brining the pedal up. So is your money on a broken pressure plate or simply a failed master cylinder seal??? thanks jasper

2002 C2 coupe. 168,xxx kilometres. It had a new engine at about 50xxx kilometres. Car runs great, not to be cliche, but it drives like new. Not a ding on it anywhere, although some rock chips and a scratch or two. I just cracked my oil pan so replaced it with the X51 part and I just replaced the steering rack. Other than that and a coolant tank, it's only required regular maintenance. Oh yeah...a $15 ignition switch.

Wow - lifetime warranty. Sounds like a good deal. I just bought a new rack from Pelican for 775 believing that rebuilds were not usually successful. Just today I was looking at the $400 rebuilds in the back of Excellence wondering if I spent $300 extra unnecessarily. As far as the install goes...I read the factory procedure and it all looked pretty straightforward. I even had it up on stands and dropped the belly pan for an inspection. It looks very do-able, but a pain in the arse without a hoist. I ended up paying my indy 3 hours to do the job. I figured it had to go in to the shop anyway to have the toe set up. He also had to fire up the PWIS to set the steering angle which is something you can't do at home. Note that if the steering angle is screwed up even one tooth the ABS and PSM get all freaked out. Just got the car back Friday in fact.

Just rolled over 100,000 miles yesterday. The engine was replaced at 40,000 miles though, so not a true high miler just yet....but getting there.:D

I did all six plugs in my 2002 without dropping the mufflers. It took a full four hours. It was a tedious job, but not hard per se. I had the right combination of ratcheting wrenches and hex bits to get the job done and I'll admit that without the right tools the job would go from tedious to impossible in a big hurry. Since I did this job I have dropped my mufflers a number of times for another project I had going...still not 100% convinced it would save all that much more time. I don't have to worry for another several years now though and who knows what the exhaust bolts will look like then.

The right side muffler of my 2002 C2 rattles and buzzes at 2000 rpm. Annoying on the way up, and annoying on the way down. I took the old muffler off and it has a part number 996.111.131.57 I have the plain oval tip. I found a set of mufflers in FL, but the part number is 996.111.131.64 and the parts man says that matches up with a C4S of uncertain vintage. I also have a line on a set of mufflers from a 1999 model C2, part number unknown. The question of course is....what will fit and what will not. I know at some point after 2003 they changed the mounting bracket design, and a search here suggests that the tips I have may not line up with my bumper holes right if I use the early cans. Can anyone kind of tell me what I should be looking for ? thanks

I have a set of cats for sale gentlemen - they are off my 2002. I replaced them *thinking* they were the source of a rattle I had at 2000 rpm, but after installing the new cats the rattle/buzz is there exactly as before. I have since tracked the rattle down to the right side muffler, which is what I should have done to begin with. My car is 98K miles, but a new warranty motor at about 40K miles. Not sure if the exhaust was replaced with the motor or not. I assume they were not. So the cats are high mileage, but they were quiet and I had no issues passing smog testing. They came off just last week. I will sell them at a very low cost of course. $250 should do it, and I estimate shipping costs of $50. I will offer a warranty to lower your risk. Install is a snap. It took me less than four hours and that included a trip to the hardware store for penetrating oil and a bit of a wrestle with some rusty nuts. Let me know...

I have a 2002 C2 with 147,000 kilometres. It has a factory reman engine installed at about 70,000 kilometres. My power steering pump is noisy. It makes that typical whining/whirring sound and it's been there since I've owned the car (one year). I have managed to ignore but at a recent autocross it started howling as I exited the stop box. Bad howl while turning the wheel several turns, not so much on less than one turn. Back on the road at normal operating temperatures later it settled down. Now I can't ignore it so I have the following questions: 1) Anyone else have noticeable power steering pump noise? 2) Would a fluid change help me ? ( I was going to suck out as much as I can then refill it...turn the wheel lock to lock a few times to bleed any air). 3) What fluid is recommended. Thanks gents. I will cross post on Rennlist. jasper

OK - after some more research, the NGK plugs while probably fine, are not Porsche specified. I went with the Bosch copper electrode parts on the advice of my indy. These are the ones with the 4 tabs on them instead of the one tab on the NGK pieces. Also, it appears that the 3.4 litre cars use heat range 6 plugs, while the 3.6 litre cars use heat range 5. Long story short - I installed Bosch Super FGR5KQEO, although the plugs I removed were FGR6. They were burned up pretty god by the way. On the install side, I didn't remove the mufflers and frankly I don't think it would have been that much less work if I did. I only struggled a bit with number 1. The rest were EZ peezy. My coilpacks were held down with torx head cap screws. This worked out great for me since I had a set of short torx bits like what you would put in the end of a multi driver screwdriver. These easily fit into the head of the bolts, and then I used a 8 mm ratcheting spanner to work the bit round. On the plugs themselves I used a normal 5/8 plug socket , then a 3/8 drive swivel, then a 3" extension, then my 3/8 ratchet. There were *zero* issues with access to the plugs using this setup. Yes, it did take me nearly 4 hours start to finish, and yes number 1 (pass side rear) was difficult to access, but overall this wasn't the most difficult job I've done.

I've been quoted a NGK spark plug part number of BKR6EIX for my MY2002 996 normal. Is this a good number for a good plug for my car? thanks jasper

Nice thread. I was old school 911 up until 2007 and we always lifted our cars by the motors. That's how it was done. I thought it would be ok with my 996 also, but now as I read more about these new-fangled hydraulic motor mounts I start to understand why it is I have to learn some new tricks. So the question then is....are rubber or (gulp) solid motor mounts available for the 996? I haven't heard of any....

32 - 911SC 42 - first 996MkII 44 - second 996MkII