JFP in PA

Not in your car, and for a very simple reason: Your fuel tank and intake system are plastic, and the rest of the system is flooded with fuel at all times.

ATE Gold and ATE Type 200 are the same product. Once opened, brake fluids in a partially filled original container have a shelf life of around 18 months to 2 years (an opened container will start to absorb moisture from the air in the container). To be safe, you can buy brake fluid test strips you can dip into stored fluid to check its moisture content before using.

Both the RMS and IMS appear to show different levels of leakage; the RMS is seeping, the IMS flange is flat out leaking. I would definitely install a new PTFE style seal; at around $20, it is a no brainer. The IMS flange is leaking the worst. Probably none of them unless they show signs of a problem. The reason Porsche came out with replacement bolts had to do with the RMS bore concentricity or roundness. Back when they were replacing entire engines due to leaks that could not be stopped, Porsche came out with slightly longer microencapsulated bolts to replace the four in the bell housing area to try and hold the RMS seal bore in a more stable position during engine operation. These were typically applied to the early M96 engine's that had shorter bolts from the factory. Unfortunately, while they may have stopped the leaks in some cases, Porsche eventually figured out that the real issues were out of round RMS seal bores, and variances in the concentricity of the flywheel flange on the crank. To help the dealers decide which engine's could be saved by retrofitting rather than replacement, Porsche released special tool 9699/1, which became known as the "Go, No Go gauge". When inserted over the crank flange and into the RMS opening of the cases, if this tool touched the RMS bore edge or showed the case bore and/or crank flange was off visually center, no retrofit of bolts or a new seal was going to save the day and the engine had to be replaced. So it is more than just the bolts, but as Porsche also began using the longer bolts in regular production engines, most of the later engine's already carry them, and replacing them with new versions of the same bolt really does not accomplish anything. The IMS flange would get new bolts, however. Your current RMS (part number 997.101.212.00) is the PTFE unit, which was introduced in 2005, so yours must have been changed at least once. The IMS "part number" you have noted is for the rear flange only, not the IMS itself. But I would ask one question concerning the IMS in the engine: What size socket fits on the center bolt nut in the flange?

Two possibilities: particles worn off the cam chain tensioning paddle wear pads, or small flakes of sealant that broke loose in the engine. Both are common and nothing to be concerned about in small amounts.

Well, considering that we have had customers impact crack the OEM plastic filter housing, it ain't far from the truth.

Yes, but it requires doing nearly all the work required to do an IMS bearing swap on an earlier car. While the bearing cannot be removed without a total engine tear down, once the flywheel is removed you can easily access the IMS flange cover (you still need to lock the engine at TDC and lock the cams as though you were doing an IMS upgrade before removing the IMS flange cover), and then using a tool like a dental pick just pry out the IMS bearings rear seal (it is flexible, so you can get it out without problems). Then button everything back up.

If memory serves (I'm away from the shop at the moment), the C102 may indicate that a controller needs to be reset or possibly replaced. This cannot be done with the Durametric, it needs a PIWIS.

Year and model would be helpful................

I don't know about that, we have had customers actually blow the CV boots right off the car while cleaning the underside with a power washer. And, as I noted earlier, we do not see any more wheel bearing failures on 986/987/996/997 cars than we do on other makes; the bearings are pretty sturdy on these cars. And while they are designed to deal with rain and road salt, I'm reasonably sure they did not consider what would happen to them when their seals get hit with a 3,200 PSI steam of water and detergent.......

Almost correct, the cam cover has to come off:

I think the two fasteners that the OP may have been referring to are the seal O-ring cover that bolts to the cam cover.

No, they do not use O-rings.

To my knowledge, there is nothing in changing the battery that will trap the key in the ignition; most likely, you can get that out by moving the steering wheel back and forth while turning it. But as inserting the key activates certain systems, you should not have left it in while disconnecting the battery.
Work on getting the key out, make sure everything is turned off, and reconnect the battery; you should be fine.

Inhaling a large amount of oil will make any car run rough for a period of time, that is nothing unusual. But inhaling the oil should have no effect on the sensors or codes you are seeing now, they are an unrelated and separate issue. And as the MAF is upstream from where the AOS would dump oil into your intake, it also should not be involved, although it may still be dirty from just accumulated miles.
One point on having the crank sensor, or most any other sensor as well, checked out by either a competent independent shop or the dealer is that the diagnostics tools they have should be able to evaluate the existing sensor before it is changed. We are advocates for diagnostics ahead of parts changing, something far too many tend to do in reverse, which often leads to spending a lot of money to fix what should have been a simpler and cheaper fix.

Glad you got it worked out.
Your comments point to a common misconception about the battery and charging system in modern cars; despite what many say, they do age and lose significant output over time, particularly the battery. This why the bench mark tests for batteries and alternators is how they perform under load. To that end, the standard testing procedure to check out either unit is by using what is called (not surprisingly) a load tester, which puts a heavy drain on each one separately to see how they respond. While the test only takes a few min. to run, it is a fail safe "go/no go" way to determine if it is time for a new battery or alternator. Most competent shops have the equipment to do this, and many serious "DIY" own them as well as they work on anything with a battery and/or a charging system. A decent hand held digital 130 Amp unit sells for around $80-100 over here.

The fuel pressure regulator is closed when the car is not running (no vacuum). This functions as a shut off or check valve for the return side of the system to maintain pressure in the fuel rails. If the regulator did not do this, fuel pressure would bleed off via the return line, and momentarily make the care hard to restart, particularly when hot. When you run the fuel delivery test (engine off), the fuel flow from the pump opens the regulator, allowing the fuel into the return line.
The fuel delivery rate out of the line leading to the fuel filter should be at least 850 cc or more. The “standard” delivery test (OEM service manual method) is done off the fuel return line, so you are seeing the entire fuel system delivery (pump, filter, regulator, fuel rails, fuel lines, etc.). If the return line flow is in bounds, everything else has to be OK by default.
You should see three lines coming off the top of the fuel pump, one is fuel out from the pump (the turret), and the other two are the fuel return line and the tank vent line to the EVAP canister system. The main out line also has a check valve at the top of the pump to hold pressure while the car is sitting, otherwise pressure would bleed backwards into the tank, and you would have the same hot start issues that a bad pressure regulator would cause.
On modern cars, the entire fuel system is a closed loop to prevent any hydrocarbon leaks to the atmosphere. When the engine is off, the system is entirely sealed. Any vapors generated in the tank are routed to the EVAP canister and stored in activated carbon. When the car starts, a small controlled amount of outside air is bled into the EVAP canister, across the carbon bed to pick up trapped vapors, to the tank vent, and into a purge line system that leads to a small valve at the intake manifold. When the car is running, these vapors are let into the intake at a controlled rate and burnt, so nothing escapes to the atmosphere. This EVAP purge system also acts as a fuel tank vent line to limit the vacuum level in the fuel tank, otherwise the pump would not be able to draw, and actually prevent excess vacuum from collapsing the plastic fuel tank. While somewhat overly complicated, the system is quite functional.