JFP in PA

You are overlooking one major flaw in your argument: Most of these cars do not have full flow filters, and the factory bypass system is famous for jamming open and allowing all the debris to circulate; large, small, and everywhere in between. And even on cars with full flow filters, they are not a guarantee that debris won't get past the filter due to oil splash within the engine; we have pulled apart engines using full flow filters that were packed solid with metal, but still found more grit inside the cam covers and the oil pump,, which according to your thought train should be impossible, but there it was. Some of the cars equipped with full flow filters appeared to literally killed the engine's due to oil starvation because the filters were packed solid with metal and not allowing enough oil to get by. And adding a full flow filter after the debris is already everywhere in the engine will not stop the grit from doing damage on its way back to the sump, it will only collect the results. Over the years, shops have tried to develop an alternative method to flush out the debris without taking the engine apart; unfortunately none of them have worked out, leaving us with disassembly or replacement as the only viable options. Even commonly used "hot tanks" do not clean out this stuff, it requires an ultra sonic bath large enough to put the cases in, which most machine shops do not have as they are very expensive aircraft repair items. At the end of the day you asked for an opinion, which we gave you. It is the same opinion I have given customers numerous times, and one I stand by. But that does not mean you have to follow it. In the end, it is your car, and your money; so if you want to continue to run it, that is your call. Who knows, perhaps you might get lucky and be one of the very few to pull this off. But if it were a customer car in my shop, I would not do it as experience has shown that the odds are very much against it coming out in your favor.

Yes, there is always some fine ferrous material in the system, usually smaller than 8-10 microns, which can actually pass through many oil filters (the OEM filter has a pore diameter of around 30 microns). But that does not mean that they are benign, just slower in how they wear surfaces due to their size. Use of magnets easily remove them and prevent any wear action. Large particles are more pronounced in how they tear up surfaces like bearing shells or cam shafts, and therefore a bigger issue.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad tidings, but this is they way we have always worked with the M96/97 engine cars.

I have run an independant shop for many years, and while we do use LN Engineering products based upon their quaility and perfromance, we are not connected in any way. Once we find ferrous metallic grit in the filter and/or sump, we will not move foward with that engine, it either needs to come apart or be replaced (which many people choose as it is often cheaper). Too many people have tried too many times to recover a grit filled engine without doing so and ultimately failed. Based upon those facts, putting new parts into an enigne that most likely is not going to make it very far is simply bad economics, both the labor and the parts are going to end up being wasted.

Once the grit from an IMS failure enters the oil system, it is no longer a viable candidate for a retrofit. At that stage, the engine is not a write off as most of the internal components are still in good shape to be reused, but a rebuild is necessary to prevent any further damage from the debris circulating inside the engine. We have refused to retrofit engine's due to grit, and while the customer's took the cars elsewhere to have it done, some didn't make it 75 miles after the new IMS was installed. Others made it further, but succumbed to rod/main bearing failures, cam shaft and lifter damage, etc., all the result of circulating grit. Ferrous grit running around inside machined surfaces under load is not a good thing, it needs to be completely removed, and the only proven way to do that is pull the engine apart and run it through special cleaning procedure's. Nothing else works. If you are interested in learning more about this, LN Engineering has extensive information on their website.

Unfortunately. the sealed bearings do not stay that way, which is why the oil influx washes the grease away. Add fine ferrous grit to that oil, and the bearing quickly starts machining itself to death. As for using a full flow filter and oil flushes, they may help, but there are far too many little nooks and crannies in these engines where debris can hide for a long time before popping out to kill a rod bearing or two. Even during a normal (non failure) rebuild, special cleaning systems are necessary to get all of the junk out of these cases.

If the engine had a bad IMS bearing, and someone simply put a new bearing in it without totally cleaning out the entire engine first, they were asking for another failure. As part of a pre-installation inspection, we pull apart the oil filter and remove the sump cover on every engine, if there are ANY signs of ferrous metallic grit, we will not install a new bearing. The engine needs to come out and apart first as once there is grit inside the engine it is going to kill the new bearing.

What it sounds like is whoever installed the recent equipment may have buggered the top set up, either putting something in the way, or somehow altering the mechanism.

I would check the fuel system for correct pressure and delivery rates, and also check the CPS.

It doesn't take much. Something as seemingly innocuous as reproducing a page from a car's owners manual is enough to get the lawyers knocking on your door.

A lot of things in the public domain are not legitimate, particularly on the internet. Posting such things puts RennTech at risk of being shut down, which is why we cannot permit it.

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Pretty much.

Guys, you are posting copyrighted intellectual property of others, something you specifically agreed not to do when you joined RennTech....................... Please remove the links or we will...................

These pumps often take a "set" to the housing and need to be "coaxed" out. Don't go animal on it, but work it from side to side until it loosens up.

Welcome to RennTech Yes, the immobilizer/security system computer does not recognize the pill in the key, because the "handshake" is programed into the 2.7 DME. This would require reprograming the RFID code into the 3.2 DME, but without the original key code tags, is not possible. You will need to flatbed the vehicle to a dealer with a PIWIS unit, buy two new keys with the code tags, and have them reprogram the DME, or get the entire ignition switch and keys from the donor car and swap them over.

More prone to wear over time.

As you will need to disassemble the strut to replace the bearing, the bump or any other bits that are showing wear are fair game as well.

Basically. Slow speed grinding noises are quite often these things giving up the ghost. You can test them by putting your hand or a stethoscope on each one and having someone turn the wheel.

More likely, it is the upper strut bearing.

The only way to rule out the DME is through diagnostic's, so there is going to be at least some $ involved. And just as a side note on the subject, in all the years we have been working on these cars, I have seen very few DME failures, fewer than I can count on one hand.

Even a used DME (same version number) would require reprograming by a PIWIS system. The DME in these cars is the center of everything, even your odometer miles are stored in the DME.

See the above; testing or replacement is going to require the Porsche diagnostic system......................and bring money as a new DME is about $2K sitting in a box on the counter, plus and hour or two of programing time, if it really is the DME.......

Don’t take this the wrong way, but I think you have too much time on your hands. First of all, being a shop, we see a lot of different examples of just about every car, and basically none of them sit completely level. Depending upon suspension age, tire wear, modifications, and allowed factory tolerances, they are all leaning one way or another slightly. Having said that, what you really need to determine is how level is the spot you park the car at home, and if that area is relatively level (again, almost none are absolutely level), and use that as your oil level reference point. With the car sitting in that spot, and stone cold (like having sat there overnight), your oil level should be about one bar below the top mark. Once it has checked out there, ignore what the level sensor says at any other location, or at any other time than the first thing in the morning, stone cold conditions. People seem to forget that it can take hours for all of the oil to drain back into the sump after even a short running period, and oil in the sump takes hours to cool back down after running, so worrying about different readings in different locations, or after the car has been run is not a useful exercise.

That is going to require access to a Porsche factory diagnostic system such as the current PIWIS or earlier PST II.