Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,726
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    198

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Then your AOS is probably toast, but it would still be worthwhile to get the correct tool and test it. Word of caution: DO NOT BUY AN AFTERMARKET AOS; we have seen many fail right out of the box, or worse yet, shortly after being installed. Factory part ONLY.
  2. Where did you get a vacuum gauge that reads in inches of water? Most read in inches of mercury (Hg), so 1 inch of Hg is equal to 13.6 inches of water. Yes, it could be the AOS, but be sure you are measuring the vacuum levels correctly. This is what we use to test the vacuum levels:
  3. Assuming your readings were taken at idle, engine warm, Range explanations: TRA idle for cylinders 1-3 TRA2 idle for cylinders 4-6 Adaptation range thresholds: Rich threshold: TRA 0.37 FRA 1.25 Lean Threshold: TRA -0.37 FRA 0.75 RKAT 1 & 2 is the low speed/idle speed adaptation on each bank, or fuel air ratio adjustment the DME is making by adding or subtracting extra fuel. 0% is in this case is a good value, no extra fuel is being added and no fuel is being subtracted. Yours is reading +4.5, indicating that the DME is dumping in fuel to both banks to make up for an excess of air, due to a leak in the intake system after the MAF.
  4. MAF values at idle should be 12-24 Kg/h, so yours is low, possible indication of an intake leak after the MAF. O2 sensor on bank #2 look somewhat normal, the sensor after the main cat should be a fairly straight line while the sensor ahead of the cat should be cycling in a sine wave fashion. Bank #1 however is problematic as the sensors are following each other, which says there is an issue on that bank. Suggest you run A/F data on both banks, what Durametric calls (correctly in Porsche speak) "adaption ranges".
  5. You should see a vacuum of less than 5 inches of water at the oil cap as measured by a digital manometer.
  6. P1128 and 1130 indicate an overly lean mixture condition on both banks; typically, the result of an intake air leak or MAF sensor. Your Durametric should be able to see both the air/fuel numbers as well as the MAF values to confirm. P1119 is the code for a low heating current on the O2 sensor ahead of the main cat on bank #2. Common faults are harness issues with the heater circuit. I would consider clearing the codes and seeing what, if anything, returns.
  7. Reflector Nut - Porsche (999-076-056-01), about $1.25 each at retail
  8. Welcome to RennTech Most likely issues is either a camshaft timing actuator solenoid has a blocked oil passage or has failed completely. A Porsche specific diagnostic tool can test actuate the unit in question to test it for movement.
  9. Here is a video, rather long, the goes over the timing procedure when changing out the guide pads: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O037gHuapCI
  10. If your VarioCam system was not functional, the car should code indicating that. With the Durametric system, you can activate the solenoids one at a time while it is running and see the cam position change in real time, plus the car should stumble a bit if you do this while the car is at idle. Unfortunately, due to the size of the cam deviation on bank 2, my guess would be it is probably out of position due to the recent installation.
  11. When you did the repair, was the engine locked at TDC, with the cams also locked. In position after the engine was lockedatTDC?
  12. It is sounding more like the fets in he DME are not functioning properly. Again, the way the solenoids are supposed to function is one wire carries battery voltage to the solenoid when the car is running, the second wire runs to the fet in the DME which functions as a gate or switch that changes at a fixed RPM. In my experience, the wire going to the fet reads low (~3 volts DC) until the RPM target is reached, at which that wire turns into ground and the solenoid activates. You are indicating battery voltage on both solenoid harness wires, which will never activate the solenoids. As for the misfiring cylinder #3, electrically there are only three possibles: the plug is bad, the coil is bad, the coil harness connection is bad. So if you have power at the coil harness connector, and the connector is fully seated, you are left with the coil or plug. Pulling and replacing the plug is simple enough, and the coil pack can be tested by moving it to another cylinder to see if the fault code reappeared there.
  13. Typically, when an expansion valve fails, the high side pressure goes way too high and kills the compressor.
  14. The two not illuminated ( N & O ) are for the air bags and roll over bar extension on cabriolet models.
  15. We don't create the news; we just report it........................😉
  16. The Durametric system can see every value the DME sees, but it cannot create values that are not part of the DME's PID file. As for spec values, or explanations of what those values mean, that is not Durametric's prevue; if you want to know what the car's specs are, or an explanation of the codes it reports, you need either the factory OBD II manual for the car (about $2,000.00 when it was still in print, which it no longer is), or the vehicle's factory service manual (13 volumes, but also no longer in print, but available online with either a monthly or annual subscription of around $5,000.00, depending upon what you ask to see). Your other choice to get everything you want, you can lease the current PIWIS III (lease only, not for sale), starting with an opening annual lease cost of $20,000.00. "Speed cost money; how fast do you want to go?"
  17. Welcome to RennTech Dealer, like board sponsor Sunset Porsche.
  18. Possible.....................
  19. Remember, both solenoids are electrically "hot" when the car is running, regardless of the cam activation, which happens when the DME active position conditions are met (read RPM levels), and the fets create a path to ground, which is what causes the solenoid to move and the cam positions to change, so there can be common wire colors to both that are carrying battery voltage.
  20. And ten seconds after I posted that, I realized I have to be wrong on that point as the Durametric can activate either one independent of the other, so there has to be separate circuits, at least for diagnostic purposes, and the DME can by throwing different codes tell you that one specific bank is not assuming an active position. There has to be two circuits.
  21. Without sitting down and tracing the wiring diagram for the car, I would say my answer would be a "qualified" yes as the two different bank solenoids do not act independently of each other, so the simplest system would be one circuit to trigger both.
  22. That relay panel is under the driver's side dash, it is in the rear on some Caymans.
  23. Yes, positive lead to pin being tested, other lead to ground; you should see DC voltage. Yes, the DME and ECU relay are the same thing.
  24. Five is definitely the one missing, so if it isn't the coil, it has to be the plug.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.