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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Never used an "upper cylinder lubricant", as I have no idea what it is supposed to do, but we use and recommend Techron at least once a year, preferably just before you change oil as it can result in crap showing up in the oil. To my knowledge, Techron is the only fuel system cleaner Porsche ever recommended as well. Please don't double post, it is against forum rules.
  2. JFP in PA
    I've always found it easier to put the bottom on first.
  3. JFP in PA
    Have that cylinder bore scoped. These engine's are known to scuff cylinder walls or even turn the cylinder slightly oval under some circumstances. If the wall is scuffed, de-carboning is not going to get you much.
  4. JFP in PA
    That maybe your only choice as Porsche never published that wiring diagram, it was only available on their PIWIS system.
  5. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech Your code indicates a signal problem, not necessarily a bad sensor. More likely, you have a loose or corroded connector in the circuitry, or a bad wire somewhere in the system. You are going to need to do some circuit diagnostic (continuity, voltage, voltage drop, etc.) to find the problem.
  6. JFP in PA
    Look at the vacuum lines carefully, quite often it is just a small split in one or more lines.
  7. JFP in PA
    P0491 Secondary Air Injection System, Bank 1 - Insufficient Flow P0492 Secondary Air Injection System, Bank 2 - Insufficient Flow Possible cause of fault - Electrical fault in power supply or line between relay and secondary air injection pump - Secondary air injection pump relay mechanically faulty - Mechanical fault in electrical secondary air valve - Pneumatic secondary air valve faulty/sluggish - Electrical fault in secondary air injection pump - Mechanical fault in secondary air injection pump or secondary air injection pump blocked - Vacuum system leaking - Air hose to secondary air injection pump slipped off or constricted
  8. JFP in PA
    You should look at the classified section of this website and other Porsche related sites for used ones, you can also check flea bay as well. Amazon also sells them, but only new ones.
  9. JFP in PA
    Probably your best bet is the Bentley manual for the 996, which is in book form only. You can also look around for a set of the factory 996 manuals, but they are expensive and harder to find as they have been out of print for many years now. Be cautious about pdf files, they tend to be woefully incomplete and/or out of date (there were many updates to the originals over the years), plus as most are illegal copies of Porsche copyrighted intellectual properties, and subject to legal action. This website does not condone trading in such materials.
  10. JFP in PA
    Manual gear box Boxster had a declutching alternator pulley that make a racket when the clutch is on the way out. Fortunately, the clutch is available separately and is not too expensive.
  11. JFP in PA
    The way we do it is to disconnect the sway bar and the lower strut mount in order to gain enough space to remove the outer and inner hub assemblies. Once that is.done, it is a simple matter to remove the bearing. As we use the SIR tool, I cannot comment on the OTC method, but there is probably a DIY using it online somewhere.
  12. JFP in PA
    Yes, the wheel bearings can be replaced without removing the carrier from the car, but it requires special tooling such as the SIR set up. It is always advisable to mark suspension components when working on the car to aid in getting back somewhere near correctly so you can drive to an alignment shop. And yes, I would always advise an alignment check after doing this type of repair.
  13. JFP in PA
    The reason for replacing it all is that nothing is forever, particularly "lifetime" coolants. They all break down over time, lose their additive packages and thus pH and corrosion control. Realistically, coolants, even so-called "lifetime" systems need to be replaced every 5-7 years, or earlier if they show signs of failing.
  14. JFP in PA
    You are only going to get about 80-85% of the old mix out by simply gravity draining it, if you want to get more out you will need to do at least one or two flushes, preferably with distilled water. As for the new water pump and thermostat, I would just install them and then do the flushes.
  15. JFP in PA
    The original coolant in early 986 Boxsters was green and was superseded by pink years ago. While the pink is backwards compatible with the green, I would dump the entire system and start with a fresh 50/50 mix with distilled water for maximum protection and life expectancy.
  16. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech It is pretty difficult to provide any help without the year and model of the vehicle.
  17. JFP in PA
    You need to seriously rethink this. Regardless of the year or condition of the car, you have what is known as a "roller", or a car with a dead or questionable engine. As such, it has scrap metal value associated with it. As others have mentioned, your issue may not be fatal, but only diagnostics are going to determine that. Good luck...……..
  18. JFP in PA
    Most likely a wheel bearing on its way out,
  19. JFP in PA
    His problem is probably worse; he needs to replace more than just the AOS, he probably needs new hoses as well, including the dreaded one that runs over the top of the engine beneath the intake manifold, always a treat to replace
  20. JFP in PA
    ECS tuning is one of the last places to go; board sponsor Sunset Porsche has the best online prices for factory parts.
  21. JFP in PA
  22. JFP in PA
    Some simple rules on the AOS: Only use factory parts; the aftermarket units are terrible, often failing right out of the box. The AOS is a consumable, it needs to be monitored and replaced when necessary. Porsche shops typically use a digital manometer (around $40 online) connected to an old oil fill cap to test the AOS; when the vacuum on a fully warmed up engine exceeds 5 inches of vacuum, it is time to replace it.
  23. JFP in PA
    On your vehicle, there are two hoses on the AOS, one running to the PCV valve on the engine, the other back into the engine case, plus the arm that allows the oil to drain back into the engine, plus a third vacuum line:
  24. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech This is a very common problem with an easy fix; do a search as the DIY fix has been covered multiple times.
  25. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech The reason you are getting oil leaks is the missing AOS. You could literally blown out every seal in the engine running it this way. Bad idea. Why wasn't this caught during the pre purchase inspection?
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