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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    You are between a rock and a hard place on this one. Without a functioning immobilizer, the DME will not let the car start; without a PST II or PIWIS unit, you cannot see if the two actually do match and communicate correctly. There simply is no simple work around for this as it is the way the car was designed.
  2. JFP in PA
    (1) No. If the hub bearing is bad, it would take a bit to cause uneven wear on the rotors. (2) Not necessarily. It all depends on how the rotor is rotated while in contact with the dial indicator. If the rotation does not take up any slack in the hub bearing, the rotor could appear to run true because the hub bearing is not loaded. (3) No. The hub bearing's are simply torqued to spec, which is quite a high value.
  3. JFP in PA
    We own multiple factory flywheel locking tools (for different applications) and none of them bind up or have threading issues; they all simply drop right in and the bolt easily threads in with two fingers. What year and model is the car you are working on? The SIR P253 only fits certain years. It is also a cam timing tool (used for cam allocation), not a cam holding tool (used when the cam cover is being removed), which is completely different.
  4. JFP in PA
    Welcome to Rennech.org The immobilizer is purposely designed not to be bypassed, as the DME requires a ”handshake” with it before starting. This is specifically designed this way to prevent theft. Problems with this system due to water getting to it during rain storms and due to blocked drains it a very common issue with these cars. Look at the immobilizer under the driver’s seat, if it shows signs of corrosion, or the small fuse in it is blown, you may need to either send it out for repair, or replace it. Replacing it is not a DIY proposition as it must be coded to the car with a PST II or PIWIS unit, and the unit is pricey, so hope it can either be cleaned up or repaired. Good luck.
  5. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech. This is what happens when someone looks at a problem, immediately comes to a conclusion and proceeds without actually doing any diagnostics. From the beginning, the rotors should have been checked with a dial indicator for run out and trueness. If the hubs were bad, the discs would have run true, pointing the tech elsewhere. The front hubs should have also been checked at the same time, just to make sure they were not contributing to the problem. Obviously, this was not done as build up on the hubs is often a give away that something is wrong with them. Everyone seems to have overlooked the obvious on their way to the expedient. While it is not going to help your wallet, get the car looked at and fixed by someone that knows what they are doing. This car should be an absolute blast to drive, and once corrected, you will quickly forget about the cost getting to that point. Good luck.
  6. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech First of all, these engines never blow head gaskets as the gaskets are multi layer steel and actually stronger than the engine castings. The most common failure points that could cause this are an oil cooler failure, or a cracked cylinder head, so you have some diagnostic work ahead. The cooler can be pulled and pressure tested, obviously the cylinder head would require digging deeper. I would start with a pressure test of the cooling system to see if it holds; if it does not, you need to start digging further. Good luck.
  7. JFP in PA
    That is what we use.
  8. JFP in PA
    Two different products; thread lube is used to assure even and correct torque is being applied to the bolts, anti seize prevents dissimilar metals from corroding to each other and causing thread destruction when attempting to disassemble.
  9. JFP in PA
    You need a new dealer, online list price is only $52. Give Sunset Porsche (board sponsor) a call and see what they can do for you.
  10. JFP in PA
    The tool is a factory piece, available from dealers for around $15. You can fabricate your own tool, but with the factory unit being so cheap, it makes little sense. Yes, you can use an impact gun to remove the bolts, and then throw them away as they are designed for single use only. To install the new bolts, you will need a torque wrench and a torque angle meter for the flywheel bolts. A quality thread lubricant (I prefer ARP) is essnetial, particularly for the flywheel bolts.
  11. JFP in PA
    No, it will not fit. There is a specific tool for the M96/97 engines.
  12. JFP in PA
    Yes.
  13. JFP in PA
    The cable Richard is referring to is just that, a cable that has no idea what is on either end of it. It also does not have an electronic interface in the middle of it, like the main Durametric cable does, so there is nothing to get in the way of it making a connection with the PIWIS.
  14. JFP in PA
    The only source for the service manuals is the factory, but they stopped printing them over a decade ago. You can still find the 13 volume three ring binder sets running around on the internet for reasonable prices:
  15. JFP in PA
    Where to begin.......... Yes, you should lock the flywheel when removing it, even though the crank is locked at the pulley end. The front crank locking pin is only 5/16 in diameter, and inserts into an alloy boss on the engine cases, so the torque to loosen the flywheel bolts could damage the pin or boss. Lock the flywheel end before starting. The “cam allocation” procedure to retime the cams to the engine runs some 12-14 pages in the service manual, so I would suggest you need to get access to this information before starting this project. We have often been brought cars where the owner’s thought they knew what they were doing, but really didn’t. The result of a small error in this process can have catastrophic results on the engine, so you need to completely understand the process and tooling required before even starting this process. Good luck.
  16. JFP in PA
    As the car is a 1999, you have a cable driven throttle. I would suggest starting there, disconnecting both ends of the cable and seeing if the problem is in the cable, the pedal, or the throttle body.
  17. JFP in PA
    OK, here goes: P1117 & 1118: Circuit resistance high on the sensor's heating elements, interruption in the heat circuits, interruption of the sensor's signal wires. P1130: A/F ratio is rich at idle on bank 2, MAF signal issue, high fuel pressure, leaking injector, EVAP purge valve stuck open. P0139 & 0159: Both sensors are not changing values as they normally should. I would do the following: Using your Durametric, check to see if one sensor on each side is show the normal voltage oscillations at idle. As you seem to suddenly have sensor signal issues on both banks, I would be looking for a wiring issue.
  18. JFP in PA
    If the system is set on automatic, this is normal behavior based upon what a sensor in the cab sees.
  19. JFP in PA
    Try listing them, the photo is very small and my eyes very old...……….
  20. JFP in PA
    Two things: We often use small nylon tie down straps to help pull stubborn bolts into alignment, and we cut a 2 1/2 inch hole beneath the drain plug to eliminate having to pull it again on manual gear box cars, but that won't help you with a Tip.
  21. JFP in PA
    Unless the plugs are properly torqued, with a dab of anti seize on the threads, they will come loose. Your message contains the magic word: "Aftermarket". We have had very inconsistent luck with aftermarket coils, and have stopped using them.
  22. JFP in PA
    The only things affected by not have TPMS sensors is your sanity from the warning messages, and the car will not pass inspection that way. Nothing else is bothered by it.
  23. JFP in PA
    No.
  24. JFP in PA
    Go back to the first page of this thread, the procedure is covered there. Basically, once warmed up to the correct temp range, and the PIWIS system is active, you remove a plug and wait until it stops coming out.
  25. JFP in PA
    Leak additives are band-aids, often ending up causing clogging issues in the radiator and heater cores. If your pump is leaking, replace it.
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