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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    I would look at two things: The steering column has to u-joints in it that can come loose and/or wear: The second thing I would look at is the amount of play or backlash in the steering rack, which should be very minimal:
  2. JFP in PA
    Mike, he is dealing with the small metal plugs in the ends of the cams blowing out, not the green cam cover plugs.
  3. JFP in PA
    19 ft. lbs. is correct, as is +120 degrees (updated in 2002). Be sure to use new bolts (they are single use only), and apply ARP Ultra Torque lube to threads and under the bolt heads.
  4. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech It could be as simple as a problem with the bulb in that light, or it may also be a short.
  5. JFP in PA
    That call is yours, but considering that you need to pull the cam to do this, I would do them all and be done with it, otherwise you will always be worrying if the one you didn't do will be next.
  6. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech Before going down the LS path, you might want to talk to one or two of the forum members that have done the LS swap; general consensus is that they would never do it again.
  7. JFP in PA
    +1. As I mentioned earlier, the paper work for the replacement engine says it was installed in 2008 as that was more than three years after Porsche stopped using the second version of the IMS and switched to the oversized bearing, it is very probable that it carries the large bearing.
  8. JFP in PA
    Afraid you are at a cross road here for multiple reasons. First, Porsche does not sell the plugs as a part, and I am unaware of any aftermarket source. Second, even if you could source a suitable plug, there is no guarantee it would not do this again. The threaded plug is the way to go, but you are going to need to find a machine shop to drill and tap them without blocking the oil passages near the ends. The treaded plug is the “once and done” approach to this problem.
  9. JFP in PA
    Parasitic drain testing is a common problem on many late model cars, and Porsche is no exception. The process is relatively simple: You attach a multi meter between the positive cable and the positive terminal of the battery, with the meter set om mA. With everything turned off, close the doors and remove the key from the ignition. Your initial reading may be fairly high and it may take the vehicle as much as an hour to settle to its minimum drain level, which should be 40-60 mA. If yours is higher than that, start pulling the fuses one at a time until the drain drops into that range, The last fuse pulled is the circuit with the problem drain.
  10. JFP in PA
    If the paperwork for the car says the engine was replaced in 2008, I’d bet it is the oversized bearing as it was more than three years after the factory made the switch.
  11. JFP in PA
    ANY factory reman engine produced after 2004 carries the over sized and non serviceable IMS bearing. You can confirm this by looking at the center bolt nut, if it is 22 MM, it’s the oversized bearing as that was the only version to use the size bolt. If you get the engine number off the sump rail, it should contain the letters “AT”, and can be decoded to reveal its year of reman.
  12. JFP in PA
    Or you can buy the real thing from board sponsor Sunset Porsche for $18. Sunset Porsche
  13. JFP in PA
    And yet people regularly argue here and elsewhere that you can put a new bearing in an engine already full of metal and get away with it.
  14. JFP in PA
    If you want to see the perfect example of aftermarket crap, look at the AOS. We have seen units that were stone dead right out of the box. So imagine how good you are going to feel about saving a few bucks after you spend a couple of knuckle busting hours to put it into the car, only to find out it is useless.
  15. JFP in PA
    +1. We have simply moved away from most aftermarket parts for these cars, simply to avoid "come backs" caused by inferior components. We have taken to telling customers that if they insist upon aftermarket parts to save money, they should take the car else where.
  16. JFP in PA
    I have not seen a tank threads strip, so I tend to doubt that. I would try another new cap, being sure it is a factory cap and not aftermarket; we have had no luck with aftermarket.
  17. JFP in PA
    The Stant 12016 adaptor is correct for your vehicle. You may simply have a bad tank cap; if its part number does not end in “-04”, I would replace it. You may have also gotten air entrapped in your cooling system, which will need to be bled out before the system will be happy.
  18. JFP in PA
    Could be either one, we wait till it's apart and see what is in there.
  19. JFP in PA
    That is because it is pressed on. You will need the correct pully puller to get it off, and another tool to get it back on.
  20. JFP in PA
    The module will need to be coded to the car if it is replaced.
  21. JFP in PA
    Not surprisingly, if you follow these manuals instructions and take your time, it is really not that difficult. Most people that we see in trouble "after the fact" either did not follow the instructions, or decided for unknown reasons to take a short cut. Follow the instructions and you will be fine.
  22. JFP in PA
    Please do not bump, it is against the forum rules you agreed to when you joined.
  23. JFP in PA
    Couple of possibilities, both actuator's, or solenoid's. are jammed, or the engine has jumped time. I can personally say that I've never seen this type of problem on both banks simultaneously, so you need to move forward with a diagnostics plan to evaluate the component's involved as "parts swapping" will get very expensive, very quickly...….
  24. JFP in PA
    If you really have 25 degrees of continuous cam advance, your VarioCam is locked in the advanced mode which is the probable cause of all of the codes except the Immobilizer fault.
  25. JFP in PA
    The adaptors are often specific to the pressure tester brand. The one used to attach to the surge tank is a VW type.
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