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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. The car’ s dash has a radio theft alarm circuit built into where the radio sits; left unconnected it triggered the alarm to beep.
  2. No, you are looking for an organic reason the engine is overheating, so even though it is not leaking, a pressure test would reveal the presence of mechanical flaws such as cracks, which the early Boxsters were famous for having, and which caused overheating. I would also be testing the atmosphere above the coolant in the tank for the presence of combustion by products, another indication of possible cracking. You should also have the car scanned with a proper Porsche scan tool to evaluate the actual coolant temperature vs. what the dash gauge displays. These temperature displays are well known for being both inaccurate and non linear.
  3. Pressure test the entire cooling system.
  4. If you look two post up, Loren has already listed the probable faults.
  5. If you read the post from 2009 directly above yours, he tells you what he did...………………………………..
  6. A lean condition does not necessarily mean you have a bad sensor, more likely you have a small vacuum leak or an overly lean cylinder somewhere on that bank, leading to the lean conditions the sensor behind the cat is seeing. A smoke test and reading the spark plug colors should help sort out the problem source.
  7. Worked for me, but perhaps you need to be a contributing member to see it...………...
  8. Audi and VW use them. Amazon was selling them at one point.
  9. Put the car on an alignment rack, it one is bent, the car will be way out of alignment, and which way it is out will tell you were it is.
  10. I find your comment that oil cooler leaks are common rather odd as we have only seen perhaps six leak over decades of working on hundreds of these cars, and most of those leaks were on Boxsters. What kind of leakage are you experiencing? Coolant or oil? Intermix?
  11. Could be, but you need to confirm the lean misfire theory first by looking at the plugs.
  12. Lean misfires are air leak related (excess air getting into the intake system).
  13. The immobilizer can look clean and still be problematic (cold solder joint, etc.), which requires special equipment to evaluate it. I would go back to the dealer and inquire how they determined the problem, it could still be real. Another possibility is the ignition switch electrical section which is a well known failure point on these cars.
  14. Welcome to RennTech Could be a lean misfire, I'd pull a plug or two, looking to see of they are overly white, sign of lean condition.
  15. Welcome to RennTech Wet immobilizers are a common every day problem with the 986/987/996 cars. You may be able to save yours by having someone like the ECU Doctors have a look at it; otherwise you are limited to trying to find the immobilizer, DME, keys, ignition, and door locks that all match from another car. Either way, it is going to cost...……….
  16. Doesn't matter; if they pulled the car up by one of the tie rods, you probably need a new one as it is probably slightly bent, and a front end alignment. Tow hooks exists for a reason...……………….
  17. NEVER do that. Get a bigger torque wrench, which has a longer handle for just this reason. Increasing the leverage on a torque wrench can seriously damage it and will throw it out of accuracy.
  18. Good. Now how did they pull it up onto the truck, did you use the tow hook that screws into the opening in the front bumper, or did they attach to something under the car?
  19. Welcome to RennTech Exactly how did you get the car towed? On the ground or on a flatbed?
  20. The LN IMS Solution unique design makes it the least susceptible to failure because it uses freshly filtered oil for lubrication, and as a point of fact, no IMS Solution had ever been reported as having failed. That said, all other retrofits are "open" style bearings, meaning they use unfiltered splash oil for lubrication, which would allow the metal grit you have found to get into the bearings, shortening their lives. At the same time, with that grit circulating in the engine, it is only a matter of time before it claims one of the lifters, cams, or even the rod or crank bearings. These engines are known to generate small amounts of aluminum debris in their oil, which (as long as the amounts remain small) is not an item of concern. Ferrous debris on the other hand is much more abrasive and destructive, as well as being a sign of a major component starting to fail. Once ferrous grit starts to appear, it only gets worse. As for replacements engines, you need to shop you local market to see what is available, you may be able to find a good engine in the $4-5K range; a rebuild on the other hand is going to be expensive, perhaps it the $10-15K range depending upon what needs to be updated or replaced. Engine removal and installation costs would be on top of that.
  21. Welcome to RennTech No, the turbo would use a 722-277-009-5 filter.
  22. The IMS Solution is by far the only permanent fix for this issue, and is also the only retrofit that can actually be moved from one engine to another. It is what I use in my personal vehicles.
  23. People tend to forget that the IMS retrofit process is a preventative measure, not one to try and repair an engine that is already on its way out...…..
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