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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. No apology is necessary; having been down this road before, we just try to provide whatever benefit that experience can provide; people will always tell you that it is really easy to look like you can walk on water when you know where the rocks are; what they don't tell you is how hard it can be to find those rocks 😉
  2. No, it was not a "cop out", and came from someone whose shop has faced multiple submerged cars for customers and insurance adjusters. The fact that it was under salt water would have changed my entire approach, starting with replacing the harness and possibly several sensors known to be problematic after submersion. We have seen cars that were in both fresh and salt water, and the latter were always the worst, and often not recoverable in an economically feasible manner, which is why the insurance companies wrote them off. And of the ones that were salvable, most continued to be plagued with a wide variety of problems related to the immersion for years after they were put back on the road, which is why I said, "Good Luck", and why we regularly caution parties potentially interested in cheap flood cars; they can become black holes for money with little resale value.
  3. It would have been immensely helpful to know the car was under salt water from the very beginning. Realistically, most of the harness is probably toast, along with a lot of the sensor, and in particular, the immobilizer and DME. Immobilizer failures are common in these cars when they get just a bit of water under the seats due to blocked rain drain holes; immerse it in salt water and you have a paper weight. Same goes for the DME. At this juncture, you are looking at a very time consuming and rather expensive harness replacement, with same applying to the immobilizer and possibly the DME as well, along with just about every electronic control module in the car. All I can offer at this time is "good luck".
  4. 8057: Apparently, whenever a belt is triggered, the AWS (Auto or Advanced Weight Sensor, depending on where you read it - the passenger seat weight sensor ) needs to be calibrated using the PIWIS. This is done automatically when the tool is plugged in and takes a minute.
  5. The use of a single rear "fog/bad weather" light is a European convention; they all have them on the driver's side rear only.
  6. Yes: To turn the front fog lights on you pull the switch out one notch. To turn the rear fog light on you pull the switch out two notches.
  7. If the switch doesn't stay pulled out, replace the switch; otherwise, the system is working correctly. 😉
  8. I think it is more the other way around; K40 are well known for their "hidden" systems that range from radar and/or laser detection systems, as well as highly illegal jammers to block both radar and laser signals. Even their very basic systems start at around $700 for their portable units, so they are rather expensive to say the least. I have never been a fan of their hidden systems as they tend to mount the signal receivers low to the ground (in the front grill or near the rear license plate for example) which dramatically reduces their effective range. To offset this limitation, K40 turned up the wick on signal sensitivity, which tends to lead to constant false signals, as you just found out 😉
  9. It is not uncommon for one radar detector to sense another as radar when in close proximity due to reference signal "leakage". Only higher end detector units like the Valentine 1 Gen 2 seem to be immune to this problem.
  10. Read Loren's post above, it covers all the possible issues.
  11. It is at the EVAP canister in the wheel well. You need to pull the wheel well liner to get at it.
  12. Make note of the codes and clear them. They may not return and have been caused by the vacuum leak; only some driving will tell you.
  13. ASR, which is actually a form of traction control, is part of the ABS system as it uses the brakes to limit wheel spin.
  14. Should have both, continuity to prove the wire is intact, low AC voltage which is what the CPS generates as it is a simple Hall effect device.
  15. That photo looks like it was on a trailer; your post made it sound like you flat towed it (on the ground), which would be a major no-no..................particularly if you flat towed it in gear!
  16. Disconnect it and test its ability to hold vacuum without leaking down. Pull around 20 inches of mercury, should not drop below 14 inches when vacuum source is removed.
  17. What Neanderthal (1) Flat towed a Porsche anywhere, (2) Did so in gear? Jeeze......... If you have tested the harness connector at the DME for the signal and it is good, you may have other issues: (1) the DME itself has an internal problem, (2) Ther may be a harness fault from the DME to the dash tach. Fortunately, there is a way to test both: One of the pins (#9) in the OBD II plug is the same circuit that runs from the DME to the dash that you can test for signal:
  18. This is weird code set as it could go in opposite directions, depending upon which DME version is in the car. In your case, it indicates an overly rich condition on both banks that the DME cannot correctly bring back into range. Common faults include incorrect MAF signal, fuel pressure too high, and the EVAP cannister purge valve stuck in the open position.
  19. Vehicle year and model would be helpful.
  20. Overly lean conditions come from a couple of issues: insufficient fuel (low pressure or volume flow, plugged injectors), or intake vacuum leaks allowing too much air into the combustion process. As it seems to be on both banks, I would be looking at testing the fuel delivery system, or smoke testing the intake system looking for leaks. With the high idle fault, it is most likely a vacuum leak.
  21. Try posting your request in the correct section and might actually get the answer: Lost Radio Code - post your request here
  22. Correct, you run the same tests at the DME connector that you ran at the sensor, pins 78 and 20 at the DME connector should read the same as pin 1 and 2 at the sensor with the sensor connected to the harness: 0.8 to 1.0K ohms, which indicates the DME should be seeing the same thing you saw at the sensor. Pins 78 and 20 should show no connection to ground and testing the harness from pin 1 at the sensor end to 78 at the DME end should not show high resistance, nor should pin 2 to pin 20. If everything is good, it is not the CPS. And the sensor ground eventually goes to GP#9 and should demonstrate continuity to ground at the sensor end of the harness pin 3 .
  23. Look, diagnostics is all about isolating the problem(s) so they can be addressed. With the sensor disconnected, you are only looking at the sensor, everything else is out of the equation. Same thing when you disconnect the sensor and the connector at the DME, then you are only looking at the harness. With the sensor connected to the harness, but the harness disconnected from the DME, you are looking at what the DME is seeing. You need to go one step at a time, there are no short cuts. Porsche tends to collect various grounds to specific ground points, mostly as a matter of convenience and reducing wire runs rather than running them all to one point. All the cars have a multitude of grounding points in them as noted in the wiring diagrams.
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