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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Welcome to RennTech This should help: Replacing Boxster top ball joints
  2. Please do not "bump" your posts, it is against forum rules; if someone has the answer to your question, they will respond.
  3. I'm afraid that code doesn't mean anything to me as fault codes typically have four digits. Try scanning the car with a Porsche specific tool.
  4. What code are you getting? And what year and model is the car?
  5. That would be fine, but just remember to only turn the engine in the clockwise direction (from looking at the front crank pulley) as these are interference engines and do not like rotating backwards.
  6. You could try spraying some lightweight engine oil into the cavity through where you were working on the seal, then draining the oil and pulling the sump cover to see if it washed down before ever starting the engine. Just be sure to filter all the oil coming out through a suitable screen to watch for the part. Unfortunately, like most modern engine case castings, there are a lot of small "nooks" where things can get caught, only to pop loose later on. Good luck with this, these problems are always nerve racking...
  7. Just be aware that small metallic parts being loose in the area of the IMS chains it problematic; if it doesn't drop to the sump, it could get picked up by one of the chains or rotating chain gears, and if it gets under the chain, you will have problems. Proceed with caution....
  8. All of the oil from the chains on the back of the engine gravity flows towards the sump.
  9. Welcome to RennTech Simple: Unless you have retrofitted the rear factory IMS bearing with LN Engineering's IMS Solution, which is pressurized oil fed, there is NO oil feed to the rear IMS sealed ball bearing, which is why many die prematurely. The front IMS bearing is oil fed and drains back to the sump.
  10. The scan tools you are trying to use have proven to not always be able to see the actual Porsche codes correctly, the only tools that do are the PIWIS system or the Durametric.
  11. The lights should be interchangeable without issue (both years list the same factory part numbers); you have a loose connection somewhere or a bulb is not seated.
  12. Possibly. First of all, if the DME is corrupted, just about anything is possibly connected to that fact, the only way to find out is to correct the DME and see what happens.............
  13. Yes, that can be correct as one DME can be used in multiple versions of the car, which may have different equipment and control networks that the DME needs to be aware of to function correctly.
  14. You need to get the car scanned with a proper Porsche diagnostic tool, nothing else will work properly, and yes that calibration code can be the issue.
  15. Welcome to RennTech Replacing the change over valve on a 986
  16. We have installed many B&M shifters over the years, and they have proven to be one of the best when it comes to durability, and in fact we have never had to replace one. More likely, you have a cable or cable end issue.
  17. The immobilizer shuts off both the fuel and ignition systems to prevent theft of the car. The CPS does the same thing if it does not sense the engine rotation. When you jump the fuel pump relay, the immobilizer is out of the picture, so if you do not hear the pump running when it is jumped, you have a fuel pump issue. Using a multi meter or Power Probe, you can test the fuel up connector at the tank to see if it goes hot when cranking the engine.
  18. "I did see a message at one time while cranking saying the immobilizer was not in a ready state but I haven't been able to reproduce that message again." That is very concerning, that unit will paralyze the car if it is unhappy, so I would start there, pulling the unit and looking for evidence of corrosion, water damage, and check the glass fuse in the unit itself.
  19. Welcome to RennTech Been more than a little while since the last time I worked on one of those connectors, but if memory serves, I used a Sir Tools 9025: Problem with questions like this is that most shops probably have a half dozen different pin removal kits which you cycle thru to you find the one that works......
  20. Then I would also be looking at the Allan head fasteners that hold the assembly together; we have seen MANY of these back out because they were not cleaned and torqued properly with Loctite applied to them before they were reinstalled. Very common post work failure point.
  21. Try grabbing the axle near the CV joint and moving it up and down.
  22. I'd start by looking at the axel CV joints on the offending corner, as well as the hub bearing.
  23. Most factory installed Zenon headlights require a separate controller for the HID system.
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