JFP in PA

Your hypothesis about crimping being better is dead wrong. Soldering is always better for a simple, often misunderstood reason; resistance in the circuit. Crimp connectors add a different thickness material (often aluminum) to the electrical circuit, and that can have huge implications to what happens next, especially sensor circuits like the MAF. Equal lengths of twisted copper wire and aluminum tube have different inherent resistance when measured a very low ohm levels. This changes the voltage levels sensor's see under the exact same conditions, the lower the voltage level, the bigger the impact. Add in that crimp connectors add dissimilar metal and the possibility for corrosion to develop, further altering the electrical properties of the circuit, and situation gets even worse. We had a car in the shop with complaints of repeated stalling for no reason while sitting at a traffic light or stop sign. The warmer the engine was, the worse the problem. We went all over the MAF sensor and harness, looking for something obvious, but found nothing that jumped out at us. While reading the car's PID values at idle, we noted that the MAF voltages would suddenly change slightly for no reason, and the engine would stall. Changing to our shop "sample MAF", it did the exact same thing, so it was not the sensor itself. We disconnected the MAF harness and tested it for continuity, and it was fine under all conditions. But when we tried looking at each wire for very small changes in resistance when the harness was moved or subjected to hot air from a heat gun, two circuits saw the resistance jump very slightly. We cut the harness open and found those two circuits had small crimp connector repairs in them, both of which showed slight internal corrosion against the copper wires. We cleaned the wires, soldered them, and heat shrink covered the repairs; problem totally disappeared, and has not reoccurred in more than four years of daily use. Sensor circuits, particularly low or factional voltage signal circuits like the MAF, O2 sensors, temp sensors, etc., act totally different when very slight differences in resistance appear in the circuit. On these, solder and heat shrink are the ONLY viable repair methods.

Bit of an odd item, I got mine with a Durametric Pro system, but they do not sell the cup car cable separately. You might want to Google it around as they come up for sale from time to time.

The two oldest ones in existence belong to Jake Raby and Charles.

Welcome to RennTech Suggest you contact Charles Navarro, owner of LN, he has been running one for several years in his Cayman.

Welcome to RennTech The S speedo face will not read correctly as your base speedo is calibrated to 150 MPH, not 175.

OK, you are running high film strength and ZDDP oils, which is what you should be doing. Your idle speed is a bit low (spec is around 775-790), but as yours is an e-gas throttle body, the idle speed is software controlled and cannot easily be changed. Idle speed can be altered by a variety of factors, so while it is a bit low, I wouldn’t be pursing that at this juncture. Bore scoring could alter your idle speed due to excessive drag at low speeds in the damaged cylinder(s), but it is not necessarily a given that low idle speed indicates bore scoring. I think it is time for you to bore scope the engine; we have been bouncing around possibilities for long enough, it is time to identify solid data on what is going on and start either eliminating possibles or zeroing in on what is going on.

As you had trans work done earlier, it is the obvious place to start as the switch is in a location that is not easy to see if the harness is fully plugged in.

See my post above...........😉 I'll bet the connector has come off the switch as the shifter has nothing to do with the back up lights, if it were so maladjusted that the gear did not contact the switch, it would pop out of gear every time you tried to back up....

It is not on the shifter, it is on the transmission itself: Repairing the 996 backup light switch

That part number ( pcg 201 221 01) is not a correct Porsche part number, and bears no relationship to any of the part numbers that have preceded the one I gave you. I think they are trying to sell you what they have rather than what you need. And you cannot simply block off lines that happen to not be included with this part, the car will at a minimum code on your, at worst not even run.

The correct EVAP canister, #996-201-221-08, is still available. This part has been superseded a couple of times over the years (996-201-221-02, 996-201-221-05, 996-201-221-09), but it still looks the same as your original unit according to the Porsche parts system.

What year and model is the car?

It definitely sound like it is oil pressure related, which ain't good. Not to start an endless "best oil" argument, but what oil do you run in the engine? As bore scoring is well known on these engines, probably your next step is to have it bore scoped.

You can lengthen damaged wires, providing that you use matching gauge wire sections, soldering the joints and then heat shrink tubing over the joints for water tightness and insulation. Soldered joints are critical on many of the wires in these cars, and in particular those that carry low voltage signals like the MAF.

Probably just unburnt fuel; take it out for a run and see if it clears up.

The correct method to test the battery primary leads is by voltage drop, it should be no more than 0.5V.

You don't, you need a PIWIS system to code the module to the car. A lot of the control modules in these cars need to be told exactly what they are dealing with before they are happy again; they are not simple "plug and play" devices due to the number of possible configurations the car could be carrying. They are definitely "some assembly required" systems.........

Yeah, that one ain't happy. While I hate to use weather worn phases, it would not be a bad idea to swap them out "while you are in there". Injectors wear and foul more than people would believe. There is also a market for used injectors that people buy to have refurbished and installed.

They are small but not tiny: Most of the time, with care, they can be reused as they are actually just crimped on. Reattaching the wire by soldering is a good idea, just be careful about making the connector too big to fit in its opening.

The small connectors inside the pug have a small "tang" that sticks up and locks them in place, these tools allow you to slide in the tool, depress the tang, and remove the terminal and its wire without damage. Still more evidence that "there is a tool for absolutely everything............." 😀

You need what is called a "pin removal tool" set from someone like SIR Tools. These will allow you to remove the terminal without damaging it, reset the wire and reinstall it. Other tool companies like OTC make them as well.

It may help if your disconnect the harness from all the injectors to get more room to work. DO NOT TAPE IT BACK TOGETHER! If the wire is damaged, you need to open up the damaged area, even cutting the wire although it is still intact, and sliding on a heat shrink tube before soldering the wire back together. Then you can slide the heat shrink tube over the joint, shrink it, and you have a fully insulated, water proof repair that will out live the car. Fix it right, fix it once................

Welcome to RennTech B6 is for the power top, turn signals, and power windows.

That would be my next stop after checking the cables. High cable resistance due to internal corrosion is common on these cars, which is why I would start there.........

Welcome to RennTech Your problems sound electrical; battery or battery cable related. Check your primary battery cables for voltage drop, you should not see more than 0.5VDC drop across any primary cable. If yours are higher, you need to replace them.