JFP in PA

From your above description of issues it sounds like the car was not properly maintained prior to your purchase. Didn't your pre purchase inspection point out these pending repairs?

Year and model of the car?

You need to understand something about pelican, they have a long history of stretching the truth, particularly about what is factory and what isn't.. Yes, a Shell division makes the fluid for Porsche, but it is made to Porsche specs for Porsche exclusively, and not available through any other source but Porsche. So whatever they sold you may be made by Shell, but if it isn't bearing a Porsche label and in Porsche packaging, it is not the same thing.

Redo this, you have no idea what quality the other oil is, while the Porsche product is well known.

I would have to agree with this assessment. Porsche tends to be wildly over optimistic about lubricant life spans, particularly involving components that do not have lubricant cooling.

It may not be pad material, which is usually very hard, more likely it is excess sealant from somewhere in the engine, or from the VarioCam system itself. The deviation values say you definitely are a candidate for some new pads at a minimum. Because labor rates and parts prices vary with geography, you should check with local credible shops to find out what you are looking at. And don't be surprised to find that shops may want to drop the engine to do this, it is actually quicker to do it that way. Good luck.

How warm was the engine when you checked the deviation values?

You should be check cam deviations at least a couple times a year after the car is fully warmed up (like after a 30 min drive). Life span is all over the map, so time or mileage are not a good measures. Looking for either green or amber/brown bits in the oil filter is a good idea. Regular oil changes, high ZDDP oil, with high film strengths help protect just about everything in the engine. You can find used Durametric systems from time to time, but you need to be careful of very old versions as they are no longer supported. Any other system is going to cost you several times what a brand new Durametric system will set you back.

The way these transmissions are filled is from the bottom, thru a fill port with an internal riser which limits how much oil is in the gear box, the excess literally overflows back out, so there is literally no way to put that much oil into it and have it stay there. I would also suggest that the shop told you somewhat less than the truth about how much oil they put in the gearbox. For the sake of the safety of the car, an your sanity, take it to another shop that fully understands the correct procedures for servicing the Tiptronic (a quick search here will turn up the correct method below), and have them check to see that the trans is filled to the correct level. https://www.renntech.org/tutorials/article/68-tiptronic-transmission-service/

I'm not surprised it overflowed with 9 liters added, the trans cannot hold that much fluid. You are correct, it should have drained around 4 liters during the change.

14Nm or 10.5 ft lbs.

Sure.

Probably the boot leaking, but you need to get the car up in the air and have a look. Replacing the boots is a DIY job, but it is messy...........

It looks like the clip that holds the cloth flap at the bottom of the convertible top in place.

See my explanation of the code above. I would also suggest you need a better shop, as this code if very specific and has nothing to do with the throttle body...............

Visual inspection of the.primary cables is fine, but it does not tell you what is going INSIDE the cables, where a slight increase in resistance can result in significant voltage drops, which screws up just about everything, including how the DME functions. If your DME was expecting 12.0 volts or better and only gets 11.4, it is already outside the acceptable voltage drop range. If that is the actual case, there may be nothing wrong with the DME, other than it does not see the correct voltage...........

No, it CANNOT be reset. The ONLY way to know which style IMS bearing is in a 2000-2001 M96 Porsche is to take it apart and look, all other supposed methods are simply wishful thinking, so unless the seller could show you records of that being done, he is fabricating data. Those of us that do IMS retrofits for a living would have told you that, and your PPI should have also caught any signs that the car had be pulled apart for such an inspection.

You still need to run a proper voltage drop across the primary battery cables. This should be done before you do anything else as too high a voltage drop will cause all sorts of problems that can easily be misconstrued as something way more expensive, like replacing the DME. Going from the DME ending in 102 to one ending in 101 is going backwards, the 102 unit is the one that superseded the 101. Porsche does not do this unless there was a problem with the older style unit. Even the 102 has been superseded twice, the current model is the DX, which retails here for a touch over $5K. As these DME's do not fail very often, you really need to make sure you need to do this.

No.

Exactly what are you trying to "reset"?

The dash has several grounding points, just follow any solid brown wire and you will find one.

No.

It should on race cars using the MS 3.1 engine module, which I think was in play through 2007.

Your hypothesis about crimping being better is dead wrong. Soldering is always better for a simple, often misunderstood reason; resistance in the circuit. Crimp connectors add a different thickness material (often aluminum) to the electrical circuit, and that can have huge implications to what happens next, especially sensor circuits like the MAF. Equal lengths of twisted copper wire and aluminum tube have different inherent resistance when measured a very low ohm levels. This changes the voltage levels sensor's see under the exact same conditions, the lower the voltage level, the bigger the impact. Add in that crimp connectors add dissimilar metal and the possibility for corrosion to develop, further altering the electrical properties of the circuit, and situation gets even worse. We had a car in the shop with complaints of repeated stalling for no reason while sitting at a traffic light or stop sign. The warmer the engine was, the worse the problem. We went all over the MAF sensor and harness, looking for something obvious, but found nothing that jumped out at us. While reading the car's PID values at idle, we noted that the MAF voltages would suddenly change slightly for no reason, and the engine would stall. Changing to our shop "sample MAF", it did the exact same thing, so it was not the sensor itself. We disconnected the MAF harness and tested it for continuity, and it was fine under all conditions. But when we tried looking at each wire for very small changes in resistance when the harness was moved or subjected to hot air from a heat gun, two circuits saw the resistance jump very slightly. We cut the harness open and found those two circuits had small crimp connector repairs in them, both of which showed slight internal corrosion against the copper wires. We cleaned the wires, soldered them, and heat shrink covered the repairs; problem totally disappeared, and has not reoccurred in more than four years of daily use. Sensor circuits, particularly low or factional voltage signal circuits like the MAF, O2 sensors, temp sensors, etc., act totally different when very slight differences in resistance appear in the circuit. On these, solder and heat shrink are the ONLY viable repair methods.

Bit of an odd item, I got mine with a Durametric Pro system, but they do not sell the cup car cable separately. You might want to Google it around as they come up for sale from time to time.