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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech Just as a by-the-by, there is vastly more to the IMS bearing than just its physical dimensions, as some have discovered the very hard way. The materials of construction of the balls, the races, and in particular, the ball cages are all critical issues in this application, as is the materials used in the end seals as even Porsche has discovered the hard way. It is also important to know that it is not uncommon for certain bearings to be produced exclusively for a single firm, as many people have discovered trying to find the exact bearing(s) that firms such as LN Engineering sell for retrofits. A lot of people have tried to cobble together a cheaper, off the shelf, replacement; to my knowledge to date none have actually done it.
  2. JFP in PA
    welcome to RennTech Amazon my have what you are looking for; https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=outside+mirror+wide+angle+stick+on&ref=nb_sb_noss
  3. JFP in PA
    We typically do not leave this type of sealant to set for any specific period of time, but one of the big things is to use sealant sparingly, meaning running a narrow bead on the cover surface and around each bolt hole before putting the cover in place. One of the reasons you sometimes see a silicon spike in UoA's after doing this comes from using too much sealant, causing squeeze out, so it shows up in the oil. Too much squeeze out and you can end up with the excess sealant breaking off and ending up in places like the oil pump pickup screen as has been noted, so using "just enough" is the right way to go. If you do see a spike in silicon in your oil after a repair using sealant, the level should drop off with succeeding oil changes as the sealant cures. You need to also be aware that many oils use silicone based anti foaming additives, which will test as silicon in a UoA, so it is necessary to have a virgin oil baseline analysis to reference what levels should be there to begin with.
  4. JFP in PA
    P0706 is for an implausible signal from the multifunction switch, usually a discontinuity. Typical faults: Wiring problem Multifunctional switch failure Tiptronic control module
  5. JFP in PA
    Amazon sells Nickle based anti seize if you cannot find it elsewhere. I have these billet tubes in both my personal cars, as well as many customer cars; while more expensive than the OEM plastic tubes, I have found them to be a "once and done" fix for leaking tubes.
  6. JFP in PA
    I like to use billet aluminum replacement tubes from a company called Rauch and Spiegel: The primary mode of the OEM tube failures happen because the molded plastic tubes are not actually round, have molding flash lines, and that they harden and crack over time. These billet tubes suffer from none of those short comings, use the factory O-rings, and simply just work. As for plug anti seize, I prefer the Nickle based high temp anti seize on plugs; never had any issues with it. Correct torque spec is 22 ft. lbs.
  7. JFP in PA
    Correct.
  8. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech It sounds like your footwell circuit has either lose electrical power, or its ground connection. Time to grab a multimeter and start checking wires. 😉 Also be aware that LED's are polarity sensitive; unlike halogen bulbs, which way the wires are connected matter.
  9. JFP in PA
    Use the Loctite 5900 sparingly; excess sealant is usually found clogging the oil pickup. Cover bolts torqued to 7.5 ft. lbs. ( I would use an inch pound wrench set to 90 inch pounds, which is much more accurate at low torque values).
  10. JFP in PA
    You can get a set of small "ez out" hex bits, one of which should fit tightly into the bolt head while rotating counter clockwise, which will loosen the stripped fastener. Amazon and others sell them (Amazon screw/bolt extractor set)
  11. JFP in PA
    The sump cover is a flat plate with an attached baffle system used to reduce oil slosh. What you would be looking for is an accumulation of material similar to what was on the drain plug, or any other accumulated material that should not be in there. When you get it down, take pictures to post here so we can see what you find.. The sump cover is sealed to the engine with a sealant material, there is no gasket. Reinstallation requires thoroughly cleaning the mating surfaces, applying a thin bead of sealant to the cover, pushing it into place and properly torqueing the bolts. You cannot see the IMS bearing from below as it sits below the crankshaft, which is housed in its own carrier assembly.
  12. JFP in PA
    OK, the reason I asked is that it is possible to blow out that seal if you jack the pressure up too high (I have seen people go to over 20 PSIG, which the fluid reservoir was never meant to see, and the seal fails). I would check with a dealer to see if the seal is available by itself, but I suspect it is not.
  13. JFP in PA
    How much pressure were you using on the Motive bleeder?
  14. JFP in PA
    There will always be some ferrous material on a magnetic drain plug, or inside the filter housing when using a Filter Mag; the question is how much is too much. It is not uncommon for people to panic the first time they change oil after installing a magnetic plug, or in particular the Filter Mag, as the first change will show what has been collecting for the entire life span of the engine before the magnetic field was introduced. Because the drain plug see way less of the volume of oil that the Filter Mag does, large amounts there are very concerning, which is why I would drop the sump cover next to see what we are dealing with. Pulling the sump cover is not difficult or expensive, but it will answer the question about what to do next with certainty.
  15. JFP in PA
    Ferrous debris can come from multiple sources such as the crankshaft, valve springs, cams, and of course the IMS bearing. Problem is that having ferrous debris running around in the oil is much like having sand in there, it will abrade all the bearing surfaces. The correct move at this juncture is to drop the sump cover; if there is even more inside there, your options are limited, as is the life expectancy of the engine. You cannot simple try to flush this stuff out, there are far too many places it can collect inside the engine, and it will start to move around over time, slowly tearing things up. The oil passages in these engines are infamous for being difficult to clean out, even once the engine is disassembled, requiring the use of an ultra sonic engine block bath system to shake it loose. A long time ago, LN set a protocol for inspection prior to doing an IMS retrofit in order to prevent people from throwing good money at a bad situation that is most likely to kill a brand new and expensive IMS bearing; that protocol starts with looking for the presence of metal in the oil, and particularly in the sump before starting the retrofit. What you saw on the drain plug would be enough to require pulling the sump cover for inspection. More metal there would disqualify the engine for an update.
  16. JFP in PA
    Fine iron filings typically look black in oil. If you still have any, try magnet on it.
  17. JFP in PA
    That has nothing to do with the amount of metal filings on the plug, accumulated metal (particularly ferrous metal) is a bad sign.
  18. JFP in PA
    That looks like a little more than I would expect to see. If the car was in my shop, I would drop the sump cover and have a good look; if you find a lot more of the same thing, the engine is definitely beyond the point of even thinking about an IMS retrofit. That kind of grit running around in the oil will kill a replacement IMS bearing that is open to allow oil into it.
  19. JFP in PA
    You don't need to use the dealer to get this type of information, there are websites that list every known plug type to every brand known to mankind. The two plugs you noted above are exactly the same, other than their electrode metals; one is platinum, the other nickel; otherwise they are exactly the same. Summit Racing sells the Motorcraft AGSF22N for $4 each, Advanced Auto Parts is closer to $5. There is no magic here, Generac is trying to screw you on the part, which is common. My 33 Kw Kohler used an air filter that they sell for $45, Wix makes it for them and you can buy them on Amazon for $7, you just need to know what to ask for. Amazon sells your original SP 521 plug for $9. https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-SP-521-Spark-Plug/dp/B004A2BGC0 Generac does not make their own spark plugs, they buy them and mark them up to sell it uninformed buyers that do not know any better. A very little knowledge goes a long way towards saving money 😉
  20. JFP in PA
    OK, let's separate the wheat from the chaff on plug construction; assuming the plug is the correct thread size, heat range, and length for the application, the next biggest question is the materials of construction. Durability is a function of what the electrodes are made of, and falls in a simple order from the most durable to the least: Iridium/platinum/nickel/copper. In a car engine, an iridium plug can easily go 100K miles in a harsh application, while a copper plug may need to be changed out after only 20-30K miles simply because the copper is the least durable metal.
  21. JFP in PA
    Just a suggestion, but it would seem you are overthinking this a bit, plus I wouldn't use either plug in the generator. For some years now, iridium plugs, which outlast and outperform just about any other plug technology on the market in the harshest spark plug applications, have been available. As your standby generator has to work when you need it to, I would be looking for an Iridium plug cross reference for the Motorcraft plugs and simply forget about what the manufacturer recommends. I have personally used Denso Iridium plugs in everything from my Porsche, to my 33 Kw Kohler standby generator, to my leaf blower, and never had any issues, which is the way I like things to be. 😉
  22. JFP in PA
    AGSF22N AGSF22F1
  23. JFP in PA
    Because everyone see that, as a gentle reminder that we are member supported, but not everyone choses to do so. Beneath your chosen logo, you are identified as a contributor.
  24. JFP in PA
    No.
  25. JFP in PA
    The connector is about 10inches up the harness from the CPS sensor itself, you can see it clearly in this video about how to replace the CPS: How to replace a Boxster CPS sensor
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