JFP in PA

Rubbish. I've used them for many years on street and race vehicles, have never had or heard of a failure.........

Loren, I spoke with Jeff Clark about these 996 OBD II manuals, and they are pre e-gas only (98-99) and would not be usefull for later models..........................

First of all, buy a couple of small vacuum line caps or make your own out of sections of vacuum hose and insert a screw into the end. Use the caps to plug the line when you disconnect the brake flex line. Letting the lines drip out runs the risk of getting air into the ABS/PSM system, which you could have real difficulty getting out without a PST II/PIWIS to cycle the system.............................................. Then go buy your self a Motive pressue bleeder and bleed the lines properly when you are done ...............

Everything they sell is expensive, I recently priced a PIWIS system and it cost more (just for the first year) than I paid to add a full bay and lift to my shop...................anything to keep the independents’ out of the loop.............

That is not correct, correctly installed after market lits move up and down when first turned on................

Let's see........... We go from a gear oil with the wrong API GL rating for these gearboxes (Mobil 1), to one with no API rating at all (GM/Penzoil Syncromesh)..................yeah, that makes sense................... Wow, everybody is an expert around here. JFP do a google search on GM Syncromesh around the net. I have used it in everthing from 500hp street driven civics to RX7's with Japanese 3 Rotor right upto Supras with 800+ hp and Audi S4's with dual K04's makin around 400+whp with quattro. Guys who run major power end up with tranny issues and the GM syncromesh works wonders in all these cases. Now eventually they will need to be rebuilt however in the mean time it gave them all some extra tranny life they would have never received before. The supra especially with the Getrag tranny was grinding into 2nd pretty badly. The syncromesh all but took away 90% of the grind for another year and eventually he stripped the gear right outta the box at the drag strip, if he didn't do that who knows how much longer it would have lasted. It's a bit of an unknown trick however just because it was developed for GM doesn't mean it's bad. I'll bet you have N rated tires on your car too eh? Let's start with API GL ratings (you can join the API website and read all about it); the API (American Petroleum Institute) sets the testing standards for various product parameters and requirements set by the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers, the engineers that design and test the gearbox) for use in vehicles. Porsche (as well as many other OEM’s such as Nissan) has been using API GL-4 rated gear oils for many years. The GL-4 rating requirement stems from the use of certain alloy types in the transmission components, specifically the synchronizer and bearing assemblies. Use of a non GL-4 rated lubricant leads to premature wear or corrosion of these components, poor shifting, and potentially catastrophic component failures; which can get pretty pricey with Porsches. Mobil 1 does not produce a GL-4 rated fluid, and in response to technical question has recommended against using their gear oils in any gearbox requiring GL-4 lubricants. GM/Pennzoil Synchromesh technical bulletins do not list any API ratings, but instead say: “SYNCHROMESH FLUID is specifically formulated for synchromesh transmissions used by General Motors requiring General Motors Part No. 12345349 (Specification No. 9985648) Synchromesh Transmission Fluid or Chrysler transmissions requiring Part No. 4874464 (Specification MS-9224). It is also recommended for use in General Motor transmissions requiring General Motors Part No. 12345577. It is listed in the Pennzoil Lubrication Recommendation And Capacities Guide as “GLS.” PENNZOIL® SYNCHROMESH FLUID is NOT intended for all GLS applications. You must verify the manufacturer’s part number, indicated by a superscript number and found at the end of the vehicle application listing.” Therefore, this product does not meet the API GL rating required for a Porsche. But, instead of doing individual research into what lubricants your gearbox was designed to use, please go with the "I saw it on the internet" approach, and feel free to put whatever you want into your transmission; as well, use whatever crap third world tires that floats your boat……………..

Let's see........... We go from a gear oil with the wrong API GL rating for these gearboxes (Mobil 1), to one with no API rating at all (GM/Penzoil Syncromesh)..................yeah, that makes sense...................

Because Mobil 1 does not make a fluid with the correct GL rating to make it compatible with these transmissions...........other than that, no reason...........

OK; Gotta ask: Loren, how do get these numbers? I've now seen you respond to two of these inquireries, always with two possibles.....................How?

Not were I am, but i will look for the paper work on them next week when i'm home. They are a Brembo part, available from Race Tech..........

stay tuned for pictures on how to turn an S rear caliper into a base rear caliper and vice versa. BTW, the base rotors will work with the S rear calipers. i will post pics on how / why this is the case. i'm thinking maybe brembo sends you cross drilled base rears. next time you buy a set, measure the thickness. i bet they're standard thickness. i'll post the pics / measurements / explanation a bit later; still messy from working earlier. Actually, the rear rotors are not "base thickness" (20 mm), they are "s" thickness (24 mm), I just checked....................

fantastic information. thanks! Anytime. I've done three of these conversions, all using the Brembo parts from the above sources, and all were a snap to do. I still have one set on an 02, and they have been great to drive, and have not caused any problems........ the last "full" kit I purchased (everything for all four corners) was $2795 (delivered) from Suncoast.................

I've purchased the Brembo items from two sources: Suncoast Porshce in Fla. http://www.suncoastporsche.com/ , and directly from Brembo's US master distributor, Race Technologies in Marina Del Rey, CA http://www.racetechnologies.com If you just want to get the rotors, I'd suggest Race Technologies, as they tend to stock the parts while Suncoast carries the full kit (rotors, lines, calipers, etc.)........................ As for using the base rotors, I do not think that will work, but the guys at Race Tech probably could give you better info on that subject......................

You cannot mount the factory "S" rear rotors on a base because the S car uses different suspension components (hubs) and have a different e-brake diameter (caused by the use of the 6 speed gearbox). Having covered that, you can obtain "S" diameter rotors from Brembo that are internally machined to "base" e-brake diameters, allowing the use of "S" brakes on a base car without changing over the suspension items (read big $). They simply bolt right on, no other mods. If memeory serves, the trick rotors are about $270 pair.......

Not to place too fine a point on it, but the DME P codes start at P0100..............that said, I think you are refering to the Porsche "FC" code #30 which is the same as a P1157/1158 code, which is either the ECT (engine coolant temp sensor) failure, or a wiring issue involving the ECT..................there is a diagnostic procedure that measures the resistance across the ECT (2.2-2.6 kohms across pins 1 & 2 on the ECT sensor @ 20 C); if it passes, you need to check the ECT sensor harness for a short...................

only I like the Actron 9145, but be aware that it will not clear "protected Porsche codes" (ABS, airbags, etc); only option there is a laptop and the Durametric software package..............

I'd worry about #49, "No communication with PST II", this is an indication the the DME unit may be acting up and/or dead...........

That's fine; however, I'd rather spend $40, use my stock cables, have the battery centered, and a machined and brushed-finish aluminum mounting plate with all stainless steel fasteners that yeilds a pristine installation rather than some pieces of crudely cut metal and some plastic bits...................but maybe that's just my perspective........... Again, you've missed the point of the thread. The DIY section is for instructions on DIY projects. I'd suggest you start a new thread somewhere else if you want to defend your solution. Allow me end my obvious interruption of your "look how cheap I can be" chest-beating session by also commenting that your installation will most likely also fail a tech/safety inspection for any DE, Auto X or SCCA event as well............but go right ahead and enjoy your parsimoniousness………………..OK, now the stage is all yours………………….

That's fine; however, I'd rather spend $40, use my stock cables, have the battery centered, and a machined and brushed-finish aluminum mounting plate with all stainless steel fasteners that yeilds a pristine installation rather than some pieces of crudely cut metal and some plastic bits...................but maybe that's just my perspective...........

I Googled Yellow Dog Motorsports and got some quarter midget site about a kid's family team. How do you order the kit? To my knowledge, they do not have a website yet. But you can reach them at YELLOWDOGMOTORSP@aol.com, or at Yellow Dog Motorsports 801 E. 59th Street Davenport, IA 52807 (563) 386-0675. Ask for Jan, (the owner), he is very nice to do business with. He has two kits, one with a plastic mounting plate, one in machined aluminum, both are beautifully made and include all stainless steel fasteners. I have the aluminum unit, and mounting the 34R to it and then installing it into the car took about 5 min. And yes, it costs more than $2, but is well worth the investment. I've even had my dealer ask about where I got it as his parts manager wanted to get a couple of kits for stock......the kits are that nice........

You do realize that Yellow Dog Motorsports makes these in kit form (everything needed to do a 5 min install included) either in plastic or aluminum.....................................

Why?

After going thru the greif to get the unit out, I'd rather put in a new one..........................

Along with new lits, you need two other things: A new insurance company, and a lawyer to go after your old one. Unless the rules have changed, they have to replace what was taken, and not with the cheapest substitue they can find.......

MSD's claim to fame is "multi-spark" systems that increase the voltage output and fire the plugs 5-7 times within the time frame a normal system would fire the plug once. I've used their systems on race cars, where the extreme compression ratios and engine RPM ranges can (and do) benefit from this technology, but see no real advantage to them for street applications as the coil pack systems these cars have from the factory work just fine. You should also know that MSD systems operate at very high electrical frequencies, which reek interference havoc on car stereo systems........................