JFP in PA

Yes, the UView system works very well; the only coolant we use is the OEM mixed 50/50 with distilled water........

1. Charge the battery fully and then have it load tested. If it fails the load test, you need a new battery. 2. If the battery passes, or after you install a new one, put a multimeter between the positive battery cable (removed from the battery) and the battery + terminal; read the current (amperage) draw. Should be low (in the mili amp range), if it is not, start pulling the fuses one at a time and watch for a current draw change; when that occurs, you have identified the circuit(s) that are causing the issue..............

I put my car away around Nov. and it sits until March-April with the battery maintainer plugged into the cig lighter outlet. The car was designed to be stored this way, it will not cause any problems as long as the maintainter you use is a good one....

In both cases what needs to be fixed or changed? This is where the PID scan comes in; it shows the "real time" output of the sensors, one of which is either uhappy or not responding. The scan will show which one(s) is(are) the issue............. The diagnostics Loren mentioned are also a good start, as the MIL signal itself could be the issue. No one ever said diagnostics where easy; but they can be fun.........

Jake Raby and LN Engineering make a spin on oil filter adaptor that allow the addition of an air/oil cooler that is used in conjunction with the OEM water/oil unit. Suggest going to the "S" version of the OEM unit first; water/oil units have the advantage of warming up the oil under cold starts. If you are to add a second air/oil unit, you will also need to add a thermostatic valve in the air/oil system to limit oil movement to the cooler until it warms up.........

We have. but it isn't a "common" occurance........ A cooling system pressure test usually catches it when it does happen.

P0650 could be a couple of things: 1. Open circuit, or implausible signal 2. Exceeding mixture threshold (either over rich or over lean) Suggest a PID scan of sensors to see what they are reading................

I have to say that I’m a bit apprehensive about finding oil that is separate from the coolant (e.g.: not a milky emulsion) in the coolant tank……… Normally, if there is a leak between the two systems, it shows up as a foamy emulsion, not just oil by itself. And as you have said you ran a pressure test, the correct diagnostic for such a situation, and not observed leakage, I would become even more circumspect that there is a real issue. Suggest the following: 1. Remove the oil from the coolant tank using a siphon. 2. Top off the coolant mix, adding a coolant UV dye indicator (available on line or at many full service auto parts outlets). 3. Top off the oil to the correct level. 4. Run the car for a few days, monitoring the oil and coolant to see if any emulsion starts to form or the oil returns. 5. If no emulsion (or oil) is seen after several days, check an oil sample from the dipstick under a UV light source, looking for the presence of the UV dye. 6. If after these steps, you see no emulsion or signs of the dye in the oil, assume that somehow, oil was added to the coolant tank by mistake…..

What, exactly, is the physics of that? Why would fuel not intrude and not intrude and then all of the sudden start intruding into the oil, then magically stop again with the next oil change? The exact reason is not really fully known, but used oil testing shows that fuel intrusion seems to come and go, even on a single vehicle. Problem is that when it does happen, the oil's ability to lubricate and carry heat away suffers badly, usually without the driver knowing anything about it. There has been speculation that it could be caused by certain batches of fuel or atmospheric conditions; but to date there is not enough solid data to confirm (or eliminate) specific potential causes........

Use a good penetrating oil like "PB Blaster", and ONLY use fitting wrenches designed for the purpose and you will be fine. Do one line at at time, using a short piece of plugged rubber hose to plug off the tubing while working to prevent draining too much fluid out while changing the lines as this will get air into the ABS/PSM components which will mandate the use of a PST II/PIWIS unit to correct. Bleed/flush the entire system when you are done. Take your time, it is a simple project...............

Vacuum system not withstanding, exactly what can happen refueling a running Boxster that has you so scared? Well, in some states it is illegal to leave the car running for saftey reasons...............and it will cause a CEL in many newer cars as well.....

First, battery “maintainers” and “trickle chargers” are different. Battery maintainers are good, trickle chargers are not. A battery maintainer uses electronics to bring the battery up to full charge and then shuts down the current flow until needed; trickle chargers keep charging the battery at a low rate, even when the battery is fully charged. That leads to problems and premature battery failure. Be sure the unit you use is a “maintainer” and not a “trickle charger”. By all means, use a quality maintainer, it will keep your battery in optimal condition and will also extend its useful life.

The fuel system had an EVAP closed loop recovery system that uses engine vacuum to operate. By not shutting off the engine, you are creating a vacuum leak, causing the problem. Shut the damned thing off when you refuel............

He said they used to dip, so I'm assuming it was there to begin with.................

The light motion is controlled by a control module that dips the lights on start up and swings them up to fill in the high beams. Possible problems are the module has gone bad or has a connection issue. If the lights are factory (rather than installed after delivery) a PST II/PIWIS can do diagnostics to spot the problem, otherwise it is time to get a testmeter and start checking things.....................

An absolutely unnecessary mod, but it looks good. Looks much better, costs less than $15...................

With today's gas prices, the ugly black locking unit looks much better........

The issue is a failing Bendix drive unit on the starter that is not retracting fully or in a timely fashion. While the Bendix unit can be serviced or replaced, most just replace the entire starter. Remanufactured OEM unit will be in the $220-300 range with a core exchange.

I copied several part numbers from harness connections to my '03 Boxster S so that I could assemble a custom harness for installing a new stereo but the numbers come up as "customer proprietary" on Amp's site... i.e., they are renumbered for Porsche. Does anyone know how I can get generic part numbers for building custom wiring harnesses for connection to existing factory connections? Specifically I am looking for the mates to: 1. Phone harness connector part # AMP 1-828-819-1 (factory harness has a female connector) 2. Amplifier harness (BE6600) part # AMP 1-828-882-1 (factory harness has a female connector) 3. Radio Harness black and yellow connectors (factory harness has female connectors) This will all end up as a DIY for stereo installations... Thanks, Rex Suggest contacting Crutchfield (or someone similar) and ask about after market audio install wiring adaptor kits. I've used them on several cars, and they allow you to install an aftermarket system without cutting any parts of the factory harness.....also makes it possible to pull the after market unit out and reinstall the factory unit in mins. and without any fuss.

A copy of my response to the same question on another site: I would not use Mobil 1 for a very simple reason: I emailed their tech line and was told that “Mobil 1 does not have appropriate gear oil for your application.” I would agree that changing the gear lube more frequently than the factory call for, but Porsche has gone to lengths (as with other components) to prevent the after market from replicating the correct formulation (they use obtuse specs that no one in the US, who use API specs, seems to be able to discern). As for those who have gone in a different direction, we have a 2004 Japanese car in the shop at the moment that the owner used a Mobil 1 product in his 6 speed, and for nearly a year had no issues (actually felt the shifting was improved); then suffered severe shifting issues that we traced to disintegration of the synchronizers. We queried Mobil 1 and got the same response, no appropriate product for the application (in this case the correct spec was for a GL-4 rated lube, which Mobil does not have). I have seen several postings on this site, and others, that offer conflicting and usually unsubstantiated opinions on which gear oil is safe/correct/better in Porsche gear boxes; often contradicting other postings. Contacting the manufacturers of gear oils has also proven disconcerting as some appear to have said yes and then no to the same question at different times. That said, the factory fill is a full synthetic, and is readily available from dealers willing to discount it somewhat (e.g.: Sunset), it seems a conservative move to use what the factory likes, even if it cost a bit more. As these gear boxes use less than three quarts of lube, and a new gear box costs a ton of cash, using Porsche’s over priced lube would seem a reasonable pathway………….but that is just my opinion…………….. ;-)

Changing it before it is due will not hurt anything as long as you refill it with the correct lube. Several have posted that they saw improved shifting characteristics after changing the gear oil.................suggest reading my posting on this subject in the 986 DIY section.

I wouldn't be without it................

Yes, get rid of the "over the headlight" syle unit and get the later model.....................

Current V1 with "PoP"....................

So I guess that I should immediately panic over the set that have been on my 3500 lb Nissan for more than a decade of daily driving in any environment where the temps range from over 100F in the summer to sub zero (with tons of salt on the road) in the winter? Oh, and the car came from the factory with the stainless lines...............including the clutch hydraulic line. I have read more incorrect "web-myths" on this subject than I would care to mention. If stainless lines are "short lived" or not for "heavy duty" use, how did they get DoT approval (yes, there are braided stainless lines with full DoT ratings), the same approval required for the OEM rubber types which are supposed to be good for the life of the car? Braided lines do a couple of positive things: They do improve pedal feel as they do not flex as much as rubber under pressure; they are significantly stronger and resistant to damage than the rubber lines, which is why many types of racing require them as protection from either track or shrapnel damage. In over 35 years of racing everything from SCCA to NHRA top fuel, I have never seen or heard of a braided line failing……………………….