JFP in PA

That is the correct torque; best way to do it is with an inch pound torque wrench, 7 foot pounds = 84 inch pounds, which is about mid scale on most inch pound wrenches..................

Do not attempt to remove the Tip without the converter; you are asking for large problems if you attempt this. :o

Jake, do you have a decent source for the two locking pins (tool #9595) required for the IMS refit; or the flywheel lock (#9538/1 engine in the car)? Having one Hell of a time sourcing these................ I am making more tools... Forget trying to get the stuff from Porsche, they don't even know what engine the tools fit! Let me know when you have them ready..............and thanks.

Jake, do you have a decent source for the two locking pins (tool #9595) required for the IMS refit; or the flywheel lock (#9538/1 engine in the car)? Having one Hell of a time sourcing these................

You can do the work you describe with the engine in; however, considering that you apparently intend to remove the gear box, pulling the engine out (comes out the bottom) seem to be a good idea and does not require that much more effort. The M96 is much easier to work on when it is on a stand and you can rotate it to work on various components. Suggest this would be a very good time to nail some quality upgrades like the IMS retrofit, the larger oil cooler (if you don’t already have one), the 160 stat, perhaps a new water pump, and even the new oil pump drive that LN/Raby are working on. I would also consider maintenance items such as coil packs, new plug tubes/seals, etc.

Ah! So it did not come from Porsche, but from Bosch. As many of our clients do not use (or want) Bosch plugs; I still stand by my statement. And, in any case, using anti seize, even on Bosch plugs, does not cause any problems.....................it simply becomes a "belt & suspenders" application. I'll find one from Porsche - have some patience I have other things to do.... and this is not on the top of my list ;) Take your time, as I said, I've heard this before but have never seen any documentation to support it from Porsche, so I'm very interested to see what you turn up....

I cannot say that I have ever encountered an anti seize application that created a problem; on plugs or any other fastener for that matter. As I mentioned in my reply to Lorne, not everyone is enamored with Bosch plugs; and we have had excellent life and performance from other brands in our customer base. We also only use a small amount of anti seize, which is spread out evenly over the plug treads prior to insertion and being torqued to specs. We also regularly use a bore scope, which allows us to see any build up on the cylinder head threads; but I cannot honestly say we have ever seen any, so I don’t see that as an issue either.

Ah! So it did not come from Porsche, but from Bosch. As many of our clients do not use (or want) Bosch plugs; I still stand by my statement. And, in any case, using anti seize, even on Bosch plugs, does not cause any problems.....................it simply becomes a "belt & suspenders" application.

Show me where they say that, not that I accept it in the first place, but humor me and show me................... I have had people tell this more than once; and as much as I respect the knowledge base of Loren (and others), I am yet to see a Porsche document reference where they tell you not to use anti seize.................

No, anti seize will not cause the plugs to loosen; more than likely, they were never properly torqued in the first place. The issue with the plugs is you have a steel plug housing threaded into an alloy head in an area that see a lot of thermal swings. That is a recipe for problems as the two metals expand and contract at differing rates. The use of anti seize (in small quantities) on the treads assures that the plug will release and unthread without problems when the time comes.

Not that I am aware of - Porsche says do not put anti-seize on the spark plugs. So, if folks are putting anti-seize on I would try to clean it off. I have never had a spark plug come loose from a Porsche in the 33 years I have been working on them - and I have never used anti-seize. You just plain don't need it on Porsche alloy heads. And in over thirty years of putting plugs in Porsche’s, we never let one out of the shop without anti seize on the plugs……..like other shops, we have seen too many instances where the plugs without it galled and ruined the plug threads. In all those years, we have never had a “come back” because the plugs became lose, and never had a plug gall on us……………….

Then I would get the Amsoil out of it and put the factory fill in; Porsche uses a rather unique gear oil spec that no one seems to have a match for. As the factory stuff is a full synthetic, available and not all that expensive if you shop around; why use another oil that may or may not be compatible with some of the gearbox components...............

And the Wix air filter ( part #42475) sells for $16...................

The part is most likely an specifically calibrated accelerometer, and where it is located is actually critical as you would like it to be as close to the car’s actual center of gravity as possible, so moving it will have some impact on its level of sensitivity and response time…….

I agree with you. Your data is what I have also seen. There are not many spin-on's that will do better than that. No problem, this is all good debate. The spin-on's I sell are marketed as the world's top performing filters and do screen down to 15 microns. That doesn't mean I would ever use one and change the flow at the filter different than that designed at the factory. Do you use a spin-on? Best regards, Bill Several of my client's use the LN adaptor; I am evaluating it on one of my cars as well, in conjunction with UOA's....... the Wix 1042, by-the-by, is rated at 11 gallons per min. max flow, which ain't bad..............

Last time I saw data on the OEM filter (Mahle), the media was rated at 28 microns. The 1042 Wix is rated at 21. The treated paper end caps on the OEM design are also well known for leakage and tearing under severe usage, which is why some aftermarket manufacturers’ of the OEM design replacements use rigid plastic end caps with internal o-rings to create a better end cap seal. As for the magnetic drain plug, I see it more as a tool to catch the development of a problem (e.g.: sudden appearance of ferrous materials on the plug) rather than an analytic tool to measure the metals in the oil, which is the domain of a UOA.... And, after forty years of wrenching on Porsche’s, I can assure you that not all Porsche ideas are indicative of them being “subject matter experts” on many things that have come to haunt Porsche owners over the years. Not to start and argument, but I think this says a lot about the basis your opinion: "I sell the world's top performing spin on filters"

Besides the finer filter media in the spin on filter, probably the biggest advantage is total oil filtration (“full flow” in filtration terminology), the adaptor and spin on filter have no by-pass route as the factory setup does.

Porsche's ONLY real remedy for the IMS failure issue was to remove the intermediate shaft completely from the 2010 engine; otherwise al M96 engines are at some level of risk for IMS failure.................

First, get the battery load tested; it is the only sure way to determine its condition. Once you know the condition of the battery, or replace it, then check your altenator's voltage output.

Get your "wrench" to add a UV dye (Uview & others) to the system when he recharges it, that way if there is still a leak, it will be easy to spot.............

After you vent and collect the current gas, then replace the damaged components, the system needs to be evacuated and held under high vacuum for several min before refilling with a weighed amount of refigerant. While not complicated, it does require speical tools and recovery gear, so it is best left (and in some states, required) to a certified pro.......

Considering how hot the rotors get, wouldn’t you think high temp paint is required?

If you have access to a Bentley manual, the cooler removal is covered in detail. First, jack up the car and remove the rear belly pan. There is a small 5 or 6 MM plug on the bottom of the engine that was covered by the pan, this is the coolant drain plug; remove it with a container than can hold 5 gallons (yes, you read correctly), of liquid. Remove the coolant cap in the rear trunk to facilitate draining. When the coolant drain slows, pull off each of the large hoses just in front of the coolant plug, these will drain the radiators. When the coolant drain is complete, replace the drain plug with a new sealing ring (a few cents at the dealer) after putting a light coating of anti seize on the plug threads. Torque drain plug to 7-11 Lb Ft. Reattach coolant hoses. Replace belly pan. Couple of useful tricks: 1. As you are fully draining the system, this is an excellent time to replace the factory 185 degree thermostat with the LN Engineering 160 degree unit. We have had excellent results with this swap, lowering around town coolant temps by 15-18 degrees. 2. Get the “-03” version coolant cap and replace you current unit. For a few bucks, it prevents major headaches later. You need to open the engine bay, pull the air intake tube from the air filter box to the throttle body, and the cooler is exposed and ready to remove. Couple of tricks: 1. When the cooler is unbolted, do not move it, but lift it in a level position and slide a plastic bag under it to catch any residual oil and coolant still inside (there is a lot of both retained inside the unit and it will get all over if it drains while you are pulling it). 2. Wipe down the sealing area and always use four new (two sizes) o-rings. 3. If you are a 2.5/2.7 base engine, do not use the cooler for that engine, get the “S” model (996-107-025-57, about $200 from a good dealer). The “S” unit is more than twice the size of the base factory unit and will give you much better heat transfer. 4. Replace the Allen head fasteners and torque to 7 Lb Ft. 5. Replace the factory spring hose clamp on top of the cooler with a quality screw type. 6. On some models (but not all) there will be a close proximity between the new cooler and a hose; if you have that, just use a small section of split hose as a “sacrificial” wear protector. Again, not all models need this. 7. While you are in there, this is a great time to replace the air filter……. 8. Consider doing your poly rib belt as well at this time if it is anywhere near due, for $24, it is cheap insurance. Button everything back up; you often find the throttle body end of the air tube can be a ***** to reconnect, but it does go back on. Refill the cooling system using the factory coolant premixed 50/50 with distilled water (ONLY; again, for less than a buck a gallon, distilled water is cheap protection); again the Bentley has instructions for this if you do not have access to a vacuum fill system, but using the vacuum system makes the refill a 5 min. no-brainer, and even pretests the system for any potential leaks. Unfortunately, the Porsche OEM vacuum fill system sells for over $500; but the company that makes them for Porsche is in Canada and sells the same unit, but with adaptors to fit anything from a Porsche to a lawn tractor for less than $100; so it is a good “buddy group buy” if you don’t want to spring for one yourself, but they really are handy for anything with a cooling system……..

I don't think it is the tires; I have two sets of them on other cars with no problems; tires handle well and are quiet. I'd look at the alignment (at a different shop) before I'd change the tires..............

It means you seeing a very slight current draw when everything is swithced off. This is normal, it is casued by things like radio station pre-sets, the alarm system and a clock. Usually, the a current draw of less than 50-60 mA is considered normal, so your "everything off" current draw is fine. Suggest considering a battey maintainer for when the car is not in use. A lot of people get by without them, but they really do a great job of keeping the battery fully charged when the car is not in use, and significantly extend the battery's usefull life.....