JFP in PA

If memory serves, the line from the top of the oil cooler leads to the bleeder valve assembly, not to the coolant tank, so you might want to start looking there. Because that line snakes around, they probably cut it off beneath the intake somewhere rather than try and get the bleeder. This kind of nonsense is more than a little scary.....................

No, it won't work to reset the "service reminder", but it will read and clear most (but not all) codes.............

It could be the syncro, only problem is that pulling the gear box to look at it is no small undertaking. Changing the oil is realtively quick and obviously much cheaper, so I'd go that route before pulling the box out. Add in the fact that I've seen this happen when people have used aftermarket gear oils (RP, RedLine, Mobil 1; none of which matches the OEM specs), I think a change out to the OEM fluid is a good starting point. If it still acts up then, you need to pull the box. I noted that someone else had mentioned linkage as a possibility, I've never seen a linkage issue cause a gear to grind, usually if the linkage is off, you can shift it into one or more gears at all..............

I own multiple 7002's and 3300's, both are excellent products that do a great job, and will not disappoint you. That said, be aware that "Reconditioning" is not a magic bullet that will bring a dead battery that has exceeded its life expectancy back from the grave. It will recover a good battery that is in distress, but not one that is already beyond hope. I would also not recondition a good battery, it is unnecessary and could actually shorten its life. Think of it as an emergency setting, not to be used unnecessarily. Just run the normal cycle, which has an excellent de-sulfating phase built into it, and your battery will live as long as is realistically possible….

Consider doing a gear box oil change out, and use the OEM stuff only, a lot of people have had issues after using non OEM lube that went away when they switched back to the factory fill (which has weird specs no one seems to match)...............

Pedro, I'm not sure we are talking about the same thing; I believe the posters headlight lens section had yellowed, not the amber section of the light…………..

Often caused by a battery/alternator issue; check your battery voltage engine off and running. Should be around 12.5V or so off, at least 14.4V running. If either is low, you have an issue..............

Try buffing the outside with some fine glass polish (Griots and others), if it is external, that will return it to the original clarity............

The Mocal kit is a good one, have used several over the years, well made and thermostat is a must have for colder climates. You will not be disappointed with it.

Would this tool work to establish fuel pressure / delivery qty.? http://www.amazon.co...72052886&sr=1-4 JP If it comes with the correct adaptors, otherwise no.

Sounds pretty f*&^$ng ingenious! I am getting a P1130, which indicates a possible vacuum leak on bank 2 (Cyl 4-6) only. If I recall correctly, on a 996, that is the passenger side, right? Would be handy to knwo for sure before I get out my propane torch and start blowing gas around in the engine bay. JP On a 996, it would be the passenger's side. Just be careful, if you can, do this test outside and without any smokers about......I don't want to hear about any unexpected “barbecues”................ This does work, just imagine trying to find a small vacuum leak on a 12 cylinder Ferrari with intake runners and hoses all over the place; pinpointed and fixed two small vacuum leaks in about 10 min. using this technique.

The classic method of locating a hard to find air (vacuum) leak is by using a canister of combustible gas (propane or butane will do). In a well ventilated area, attach a short hose to the canister and turn it on low (you just want a small bleed of gas, not a torrent). With the car running, run the hose end around the vacuum connections one by one; when you find a "leaker" the idle will suddenly jump as the result of sucking in more fuel……………..

Neither....................

Does anyone have specifics how to test the fuel pressure sensor without the special Porsche tool. 99 Boxster Tip. Also is this tool cross used on any VW or Audi? 996-606-205-00-M14 thanks, Mike To my knowledge, the "pin out box" is unique to Porsche because it entirely matches their wiring harness and sensor lay out. Basically, the tool is a box that simply plugs into the wiring harness and then allows you to test various readings (resistance, voltage, continuity, etc.) between numbered pins without having to actually "unearth" and disconnect the sensor you want to test. Makes electrical and sensor diagnostics much quicker, but the tool is a SoB to find and costs over $800.........probably assembled by elves in the Black Forest.......

I would also bet that the first replacement was not an OEM, but rather a cheaply made aftermarket unit. Not an uncommon problem......

So no bleed system in the earliest 986's -- or did they do it a different way. Just trying to see if I need to T a line someplace to still maintain the function. BTW, I'll need to double check tonite -- but the new coolers do not look like the will fit in the old blocks. in this case a 99 cooler (with bleed line) in a 97 block. Mike I'm not really sure on that one Mike; the 2.5 didn't survive in production very long, but I know they had a different cooler setup (with an adaptor plate between the cooler and the block), but cannot honestly say how it was otherwise "plumbed". I've only ever seen two of them, and that was some time ago. Perhaps if you give Jeff over at Sunset a buzz (or Jake Raby), they might have more complete info (I looked in my set of the OEM service manuals, but nothing is mentioned in the version I have).

The earliest cars had a slightly different oil cooler that also required an adaptor plate between the cooler and the block as well as not having the upper line........

Maurice- Jeff at Sunset can set you up with everything you need (there are a fair number of bits (brackets, hoses, etc.), but they apparently have done it so often they can pull up all the part from memory). We have done several of these, all using the OEM bits for later service reasons. Only thing different is what bumper cover you chose; some just use an "S" bumper from the boneyard, others use the GT2 or 3 cover, which is a lot more stylish in my opinion, and makes it easier to clean out the side radiators as well.

Looks good; I see someone else is a "Rainforest Green" fan...................

I think your only hope on this one is either a dealer or wrecking yard; I'm not aware of any aftermarket sources.

I agree with your point completely. Areas in PA that require sniffers (usually larger metro areas) are not required to use rollers, the car is warmed up (often by taking to for a short drive), then connected to the sniffer. Shops like the one we use for state emissions have a four wheel chassis dyno with an airflow fan that they use to prevent unfortunate problems that occur when the 17 year old shop low-man takes a customer's year old Ferrari out to warm it up. What the 160 stat will do for a car stuck in traffic is to take longer for it to get hot, and then allow it to cool back to the lower base line temp when it gets moving, which is were most cars spend the majority of their time...........at least those outside of the Bay area.................

Strange as it may sound, because I am in the automotive trade, and have been during my corporate career prior to going into business for my self, I developed an inherent "need to know" concerning just about anything and everything. I read about low temp stats for the M96, and decided to test how they compare for myself. Not that I mistrust vendors as much as some posters seem to, but I do firmly believe in "trust, but verify". And I run my shop this way. So when I read about opening rates and temperature differences, I looked up how stats are tested, built a similar test stand and ran some evaluations. When customers asked me to install them in their cars, it provided an opportunity to put a data logger in their car and see how both the units worked in the real world. Now, when a customer asks, I can give him an answer that I know I can support. If you think I'm nearly anal retentive over thermostats, don't get me started on what brand and weight oils and filters we recommend for the M96; because our choice is based upon literally hundreds of UoA's over many years, and more cut up oil filters than you could imagine................... In the age of the internet, there are lot of questionable to unsupportable product claims bantered around almost daily. I like to sleep at night and not have to worry that the shop gave someone a "bum steer"; so we do more than a little leg work on our own................... As for "smog", we do have a non-certified "sniffer" of our own, and we do have access to a nearby state licensed "smog shop" that does the state mandated emissions for our customers. I chose not to get my shop state certified simply because of the expense and paperwork involved; we can test, we just cannot certify compliance. We also do not do A/C systems recovery and recharge for the same reasons. We can test a system to see if it is up to snuff, but discharging, Freon recovery and recharge means submitting records to the state and federal authorities for every car, regular shop inspections, etc., etc. Too much trouble, and my approach allow me more time to focus on working with customers to keep them both happy and on the road.

Never said that they would not go on at the DME's preset temp, only that observations have been that it appears to take longer for the car to reach the first fan speed trip point temperature after becoming mired in traffic (which you would expect if the car was running at a lower base line temperature), that the fans do not appear to run as long a period of time before they shut off, and do not appear to run as frequently. Again, these are observations by multiple drivers, and have not been confirmed by any type of controlled experiment that I am aware of.

To my knowledge, on the M96, the fans are triggered by the DME software when the coolant reaches pre set limits; so to change the temps you would need to alter the programming. As for the fan's run time, if you read the post from Australia, the fans tend to run less frequently and for shorter periods on cars with the 160F stat. We have also noted similar observations on both two and three radiator vehicles. The addition of the third radiator on cars only equipped with two would increase both the total coolant volume and total heat exchange surface area, both of which would further reduce fan run time even further (being aware that the third unit does not have a fan of its own, so its impact would become more important when air flow over the radiators returned).

If that is the case, they should also know that I am not the vendor for this product, but a satisfied customer that has personally observed its benefits, as have many of my shop's customers………………….