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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    As long as the loose idler has not damaged the mounting boss, replacing both the idler and mounting bolt should fix the issue........
  2. JFP in PA
    Ummmmmm...........you are aware that the oil pump is on the front of the engine, next to the water pump, while the item he is refering to is on the back of the engine, near the bellhousing? He undid the primary chain tensioner...................
  3. JFP in PA
    I'm always amazed that people have this problem; bleeding the clutch is one of the simplest items on these cars. The total "trick" is to obtain a short (~ four inch long) double box metric wrench of the correct size (a Sears's item). You put the wrench on the fitting, connect the drain hose, and them crack open the bleeder valve. The short double box has plenty of "swing" room, and you are done in less than one min. without having to remove the wheel and tire. You can do this on the ground or a lift, no problems……………
  4. JFP in PA
    This is not good…………while your picture is a bit hard to decipher, the item in question appears to be the primary chain tensioner for cylinder bank 1-3. Hopefully, nothing jumped time while you were doing this, but I would not bet on that. Suggest having your cam timing checked with either a Durametric package or a PIWIS system to make sure they are still correctly "allocated". If they are not, you are in for some serious expenditure to fix this…………….. If the M96 has jumped cam timing, it would be a good time to consider the IMS upgrade as you will already be doing most of the same work to get the cams back where they belong. Good luck with this one…….and be careful about what you loosen in the future…..
  5. JFP in PA
    Shame they don't have a good oil on sale................
  6. JFP in PA
    Jeez guys, let's make this overly complicated…………….. We've used everything from two, three and four side electrode Beru and Bosch; to single side electrode NGK and Denso Iridium's, and they all worked fine as long as they are the correct heat range. I've had a set of Denso Iridium's (single side electrode) in my personal car for some time, runs just fine, have a couple of customer's turbos using them as well, work just fine……………. No magic here.
  7. JFP in PA
    Wayne, I don't think you would say that if you have seen some of the UoA's that I have.......................Yikes!
  8. JFP in PA
    I'd suggest contacting Eric at Bumper Plugs, he sells them for $199 every day...............
  9. JFP in PA
    Perhaps it is just me, by I find it difficult to believe that someone would get that far into the car and not replace the bearing assembly…………..
  10. JFP in PA
    Which would throw a code......................
  11. JFP in PA
    Three words: LocTite & Torque wrench.......................
  12. JFP in PA
    Don't be afraid to try Castrol Syntec's 10W-40, slightly higher base weight gives it considerably "longer legs" in high temp/high shear applications. Holds ACEA A3, B3, B4 ratings as well.............
  13. JFP in PA
    Mobil 1 used to be a good product, until Exxon took over. Several grades were true Group IV (PaO based) with great high temp/high shear performance. Then the reformulation began; several grades lost all of their critical ACEA ratings (most notably, the 15W-50, long a mainstay of the air-cooled 911 crowd), and nothing has been the same since. The 0W-40 went from Group IV to III+, to III, to now God knows what. TBN values, long used as in indicator of when an oil should be changed, show that this grade can shear down and is no longer able to "stay in grade" and needs to be changed in as little as 2-3K miles of street driving in something as innocuous as a Cadillac under mild climatic conditions. Not particularly reassuring to someone beating the snot out of their turbo in summer heat. There are a lot better full synthetic choices available, often at better prices, than Mobil 1. Unfortunately, too many choose not to educate themselves on the topic and merely "parrot" what the OEM "recommends"……………..
  14. JFP in PA
    Wayne, get a Wix NAPA Gold filter (#1042) and cut it open beside the Mobil/Champion filter, you just might be surprised why even Charles uses the $5 Wix unit............
  15. JFP in PA
    Now you know why that shop has a "rip-off artist" reputation; they are butchers.....................Google them and see what you find…………
  16. JFP in PA
    First, and perhaps most importantly, I have little regard for most Mobil 1 products, and in particular would not use their 0W-40 product based upon several years of collected UoA's. That said, you should be changing the oil and filter at no more than 5-7.5K miles (2-3K if you insist upon using Mobil 1 0W-40). Much like their "recommendation" for using Mobil 1 in the first place, going 15K is also nonsense, particularly if you use 0W-40...............
  17. JFP in PA
    The “tearing” problems with the OEM cartridge style filters typically happens on the paper end caps of the filter where it slides over the block, causing a by-pass leak. The spin on filter uses metal end caps and a metal cage around the filter media (both inside and out), which totally supports it. The spin on is rated at over 11 gallons per min. flow at temperature and pressures well beyond what the M96 typically sees, so it is very durable, plus the media is has a pore diameter one third smaller than the OEM style filter as well. Better made, better filtration……………
  18. JFP in PA
    Unfortunately, this is not going to be as simple as you think. Because of the twin cam design and variable valve timing Porsche used, you need to index the cams to each other as well simultaneously the crankshaft position (what the factory calls “allocating” the cams). In order to do this correctly, and not destroy your engine (a real possibility if you get it wrong), you need some special fixtures set and then lock the cams in the correct positions in relation to the crank: This can be done with the engine in the car and the cam covers on, by pulling the green plugs out of the cam covers the attaching the fixture, or it can be done with the cover off as well: While the process is not difficult with the correct tools, it is time consuming; so you need to do some research, or obtain access to the 13 volume set of the OEM manuals for the procedures.......
  19. JFP in PA
    Because a lot of parts sources are pushing cheap Chinese made knock off axle assemblies that are no where near the quality of the OEM units.......
  20. JFP in PA
    Loren: Thanks for the diagram. Part # 33 shows up as an "elec. connector". Do you know what goes on the the other side of part 33 (i.e., what does it connect to)? BTW, even though my Boxster is a '97, it's got a '98 engine. Regards, Maurice. On the ones that I have seen, a hard line protrudes through the fire wall from the bleeder, it slips over that. The hose itself is nothing special, just rubber water line with clamps (I always use the screw type replacements) on both ends, so you should be able to source it locally. If the right angle connection is an issue, the OEM hose with the bend molded in is about $20.......
  21. JFP in PA
    If memory serves, the line from the top of the oil cooler leads to the bleeder valve assembly, not to the coolant tank, so you might want to start looking there. Because that line snakes around, they probably cut it off beneath the intake somewhere rather than try and get the bleeder. This kind of nonsense is more than a little scary.....................
  22. JFP in PA
    No, it won't work to reset the "service reminder", but it will read and clear most (but not all) codes.............
  23. JFP in PA
    It could be the syncro, only problem is that pulling the gear box to look at it is no small undertaking. Changing the oil is realtively quick and obviously much cheaper, so I'd go that route before pulling the box out. Add in the fact that I've seen this happen when people have used aftermarket gear oils (RP, RedLine, Mobil 1; none of which matches the OEM specs), I think a change out to the OEM fluid is a good starting point. If it still acts up then, you need to pull the box. I noted that someone else had mentioned linkage as a possibility, I've never seen a linkage issue cause a gear to grind, usually if the linkage is off, you can shift it into one or more gears at all..............
  24. JFP in PA
    I own multiple 7002's and 3300's, both are excellent products that do a great job, and will not disappoint you. That said, be aware that "Reconditioning" is not a magic bullet that will bring a dead battery that has exceeded its life expectancy back from the grave. It will recover a good battery that is in distress, but not one that is already beyond hope. I would also not recondition a good battery, it is unnecessary and could actually shorten its life. Think of it as an emergency setting, not to be used unnecessarily. Just run the normal cycle, which has an excellent de-sulfating phase built into it, and your battery will live as long as is realistically possible….
  25. JFP in PA
    Consider doing a gear box oil change out, and use the OEM stuff only, a lot of people have had issues after using non OEM lube that went away when they switched back to the factory fill (which has weird specs no one seems to match)...............
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